mjr45

Zed, the vacuum line from to FPR is new, I'll be checking all this out on Tuesday, thanks again for all your help.

I saw a 240 for sale on e-bay via the BaT (Bring a Trailer) web site for $14500 in Spokane, the interesting thing are the comments posted predicting 30K in a few years for a 240.

Bonzi, very impressive. I agree, without this site and its many knowledgable contributors I would have been lost and spent many $ getting to where I am. I lost all of my before pics when the "machine" crashed and will post after pics when its done here in a month or two. Zedy very nice ride!

Fastwoman, all the plugs were sooty but just 1-3 were wet, not soaked but obviously wet and yes that pressure was with the engine running a couple of weeks ago, but I am rechecking that Tuesday, have to work tomorrow(my 1 day to actually work) and today is reserved for the family, all the kids come home and we have a big dinner and shoot clay pigeons in the front yard.

Zed you were right again, the fuel cutoff switch was just barely making contact, I had to use my magnifier glasses to see it, so after tweaking it back into place, it started and idled the way it was before I started messing with the AFM, thanks. Now to trace down the vacuum leak and the rich/lean problem.

Pops Z and Darrel, I had to pay $69 for 1 year on my 75, which was with all the fees. Maybe I should go back and ask for collector plates.

The plugs on 1,2,3 were a little wet, and yes the exhaust is pretty gassy smelling, last I checked pressure was 34-36. the timing is also at 17 degrees and I can't get it any lower, but I'm not sure that that is part of the current problems, it ran OK, not great, prior to starting the hunt for the vacuum leak. This all started after taking off the old TB and the cover on the AFM.

I just tried tweaking the fuel cutoff to the point it barely touching the switch in the AFM and the same thing happens starts and idle goes between 600-1200 and then dies, engine will keep running if the throttle is held at about 2000rpm if it drops below 1800 it dies.

Zed, all the hoses, breather from valve cover, vacuum lines including the HVAC mess, AFM to TB and AFM to air filter are all new. The dipstick is a tad loose but the oil cap is tight. I was able to start it once with an external starter and I noticed the weight in the AFM was twitching back and forth and looked like just enough to cut off the fuel filter, moved about 3-4mm, if I push the throttle when it starts without having had the throttle open priior to starting it just dies so maybe it is the fuel pump shutoff in the AFM, I'll try to tweak it a bit and see if that works. Also new are the injectors, AAM and CSV.

OK I changed the TB back to the old one and now it starts, runs rough with the idle bouncing between 600 and 1200 for about 3 seconds then dies. If I keep the revs up to about 2000 when it starts it stays running if I let the RPM drop to 1800, it sputters then dies. Now I'm really lost. I was unable to do anything with the AFM as far as rich/lean check. Help!

Thanks Fastwoman and Zed, I'll post later today after I've changed the TB and check the lean/rich with the AFM and let you know the results.

Nope the throttle shaft is not loose. I thought I would try to adjust the AFM to lean out the fuel and when I did the engine idled at about 4K and would not decrease with any idle screw adjustment so I put the AFM back to the starting point and no change, this was with a different TB, so tomorrow will change back to the old TB and see what happens, but I suspect that something went wrong with the AFM, I followed the directions and never let the spring loose in the AFM. Right now I'm so pissed I may just junk the whole EFI and switch to carbs!

OK, tried Fastwoman's yogurt cup test and even used a very nasty cigar to see where leak was and it is from the butterfly inside the TB, leaks out the sides where the TPS and the throttle spring are located, this happened on 2 TB's. I can't tell if there is any type of seal in these locations.

Fastwoman, I am going to try your yogurt test this AM and you just gave me some needed insight, this motor is running way way rich, the plugs are jet black and covered in soot. I thought it was because of the vacuum leak that it was running rich. Thanks

grantf, yep thats my car and no I haven't tried fastwomans test, simply because I can hear and feel the leak at the throttle body. The other way I know is by squirting a small dab of water at the spot and you see it get sucked in. I put 2 gaskets on it yesterday and it helped a little but still running 11.5 to 12 on the vacuum.

No carbs, efi. All the vacuum lines are new, including all the HVAC mess, I'm only getting 11.5 to 12 on the vacuum gauge.

I found a massive vacuum leak where the throttle body connects to the intake manifold. Took it off and replaced the gasket and still no joy. As much as I hate the idea, I'm contemplating trying some RTV or Copper gasket spray on the thing. Both throttle body and intake are flat as far as I can tell. I need some help on figuring this out. Thanks.:angry

I didn't think it did since there are no clearance issues in the opening in the tunnel, but just wanted to be sure. Thanks.

Thanx Zed, I plan on pulling the tranny this week and since this is not my daily driver and has been down for about a year a little longer won't matter. Another question; I've read a couple of posts regarding the shift lever, the one I'm using is from a 75 4 speed and doesn't look like the one in the diagram, does that matter?

Yup tried the double clutch trick, no joy, sitting still I can put it into 5th and as soon a I let out the clutch it jumps out, if I try to hold it in and let out the clutch it grinds like hell. Carl I agree it probably doesn't need a complete rebuild, and finding mechanic's around here who know anything about Z's is close to impossible, even the one in Colorado Springs who works on "Nothing but Japanese" cars told me he would be lost working on the Z. I have found a couple of tranny shops that say "they can fix it" but I don't know. The other thing is that for less than the $ to rebuild I can find another used one.

Just got my car back from the exhaust shop and having not driven it more than 2 blocks and never out of 2nd, found a new issue. When trying to shift into 5th all kinds of grinding and won't go in when in motion. It will go into 5th when sitting but as soon as the clutch is released pops out. All other gears shift fine, including reverse but are a little stiff. The local tranny shop wants $1000 to rebuild it! Tranny is from a 79 ZX. Thanks for any input.

Here's the bay on my 75, just plain and simple.

Zedy, my sympathies about your Dad, I just got back from Austin making arrangements for my Dad so he can pass peacefully.

LMAO, "No va" great one.

Pomorza, I believe I may have an extra if you want it.