mjr45

Fastwoman, love that engine treatment. Is that a heat shield on the fender?

My original seals were toast, just crumbled apart, so I am thinking of using an L shaped rubber seal or some scrap door seals I have to go around the edge of the plastic panel. I'll have to wait until I get it back from the muffler shop and experiment a little. Looks fugly right now.

I've got one from a 75 if it'll work.

I've replaced the quarter window seals, glass to frame and frame to body and put them back in the car, ther is now a gap between the window and the interior plastic panel. Any ideas on how to fix it? It's looks like crap with that gap around it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

I used a product from eastwood very much like Dynomat and also used builder's expanding foam in some of the void spaces i.e. the inside rear bottom quarter panels, helped immensely, also covered the inside of the doors and the roof under thye head liner, I also put a thicker tube around the door lock rod which stpped it from rattling. Overall a much quieter ride.

From a sheer historical perspective, it might be worth restoring. Looks like there may be alot of rust on the bottom side, floors pans etc., it might be worth a second look before parting it out. Just my 2 cents.

I had a similar problem, in the long run it was just easier to pull the front cover, makes the whole job a lot less frustrating, but my engine was out and on a stand.

Tail light bezels definitely, most used ones are in pretty bad shape and sanding them down and doing a refinish is not exactly 100% no matter how well the job is done.

Zed, I agree the symptoms don't match the solution, and yes he used a timing light which I'll check as soon as its back from the exhaust shop, I had to run it over to a friends exhaust and tire shop since I was running with just the head pipe on with a short (2') exhaust, so I haven't had a chance to really see if he "fixed" it.

Here's the latest in the saga, I went to pick up my car and the mechanic says "Oh, its running great now!" me "What did you do?" mechanic "Well it seems that the dizzy was off, so when I moved the wires 1 post over it started and runs well." WTF I says, why didn't you fix it correctly? No reason he says it was just easier to do this way. Needless to say I'll never go back there for anything and now have to fix what he screwed up.

Glad your son is OK. That really smarts to look at.

Bill Nice looking ride, I live over in Divide and spend a lot of time in the summer over at Taylor Park also ride up there in winter. This is a great site with answers to evreything you might come across.

That's a Model 1972 FUgly made in Taiwan.

Zed it runs for about 30-60 seconds and won't restart immediately unless the fuel hose is pinched. The fact that while it is running it won't rev makes me think its the cutoff switch in the AFM. I'm going to get the car back either today or tomorrow and perform the tests in order from the FSM and the EFI Bible to see if I can resolve the problem. Thanks for the input every idea helps.

I gave him my copy of the Fuel Injection Bible, at this point I'm going to get the car back and either try to resolve it myself or take it to another mechanic. This guy is highly recommended by locals as a great mechanic, but now I'm wondering if its just for oil changes! I'm thinking the issue has to do with the AFM signal to the fuel pump or the TPS signal, the car starts but won't rev and dies after about a minute which tells me its not getting fuel or to much fuel, but there is no fuel smell and the plugs are dry. The TPS was set with the engine not running so it could be that, it may be set so the pints are not opening with throttle. If the AFM signal doesn't get to the pump after start it could be that, but rather than just guessing, I'll check each item by "the book."

The fuel pressure reads 34-36 psi when started but it won't run long enough to get any more readings.

Supposed to check the fuel pressure today, but haven't heard yet what is is. The TPS was adjusted according to info from Atlantic Z site. Just trying to get some ideas of what to check next. Thanks for the input.

OK, I have a 75 280 which has a 79 N47 block with an N42 head which has just been cleaned up with valve job and milling .010 to level it out, new injectors (stock), new fuel line (rubber), new fuel filter, new vacuum lines, new AFM and throttle body boots, new connectors on the entire EFI harness. The engine starts but when accelerator rod is pushed, nothing, no revs, just keeps idling then dies. After it dies it won't start unless the fuel line is pinched off. Fuel pressure is there but not measured, we've checked the thermotine, temp sensor and CSV all checked out. The mechanic and I are kinda at a loss any help will be appreciated. Thanks.:mad:

I had problems with the Precision top window frame seals and actually broke one of the outside door handles trying to open the door. Ended up trimming the bottom of the seal to fit into the channel and now all is good. It took me about 2 hours to get the passenger door adjusted to close and open without slamming and swearing.

9teen I have a spare bracket but its from a 280, its yours for the shipping. I had a pretty ratty console with lost of cracks, scuffs and various divots which was actually from a 240 with the choke lever slot in my 280, I covered the whole thing after fixing the cracks with 3M carbon fiber vinyl, looks better, not great but better.

I have 3 different keys for my Z, 1 for the ignition, 1 for doors and 1 for the hatch, the PO replaced the ignition (new key) and I had to replace the hatch lock (new key) a locksmith said he couldn't key them all to one key, and my ignition key comes out in position!

Look down in Austin I saw lots of Z's for sale when I was there in February. I agree with Jeff G a $500 parts car at best.

Just found 2 door strikers with plates to go with post #105. Thanks.

Here are some parts that I would like to give away, some probably to heavy to ship all off a 75 and 280Z. Drive shaft, radiator with shroud, e-brake handle and cable, set of louvred inspection lids, heater core, EFI relays, clutch secondary cylinder X 2, clutch master cylinder, brake master, brake booster (don't know if it works), 4 speed tranny, single pickup and dual pick dizzy, oil pump (non turbo), alternator, windshield wiper motor (works but is slow), center console mounting bracket, tranny rubber interior seal and metal bracket (goes over the shift lever to interior floor), shift lever, plastic heater duct (Y type), defroster plastic horns, dash center console has a broken corner where the air ducts are with air control panel, ignition control module X 2 (don't know if either is any good) and last a 350# paper weight which used to be an L28 block. If no takers, most of this stuff will go to the re-cyclers. PM with any questions, just pay shipping for parts you might need. Thanks.

On the #1 car, what type of title do you need to get? It might be worth $500 if not to badly rusted, check out the usual suspect areas for rust. The #2 car if it needs the tank dropped and cleaned probably needs a lot more stuff done, check it over closely and then decide or wait for a better deal.