mjr45

Like everyone else has stated, unless you have lots of time, really deep pockets and are willing to learn new skills, this one is pretty diseased. I'd pass and look for something better.

I agree with Bruce and Fastwoman, just go look for a completely restored pristine 240, don't bother with one that needs ANY repair.

All things considered, if you are looking at putting 8-10K into the car + whatever it will take to get it running which could be very little or a lot depending on whats wrong, if you pay 2K you'll end up with 12K + in it. 240's have sold for upwards of 18K and the price seems to be going up. It is up to you, how much time, effort and $ you are willing to put out. Pics would be nice and make sure you check the known rust area's, floorpans, rails, rear hatch, doglegs, etc. Just my 2 cents.

Wait, wait let me find my checkbook! Smokin lots o crack and probably pretty drunk.

I got my 75 280 for $2500, running well with some well hidden rust and so far have put another $6500 in it doing a lot of stuff in the "while I'm here" area. I've learned to weld, cut and repair panels, paint, do weather striping, use a rotory buffer, fab parts and it was well worth the $. I know I can't get $9000 for my car but I don't care its been fun (and frustrating at times). Nothing like learning new stuff!

ARRRRRRGH!! Sorry for you

Thanks olzed, I just rechecked the chain and its off by 2 links from where I started. I kinda figured I would end up taking off the front cover, but was hoping not to, its a PITA, but easier since the engine is out of the car.

Short version of post in engine section. Can the dizzy, oil pump and oil pan be left in place when removing the front cover? Head is not torqued down. I've read lots of post re: cam sprocket not lining up, but somehow even after wedging the chain in place B4 removing the head it has managed to slip about 3-4 links from where I marked it and I'm not sure just how much a timing difference this will make. Thanks.

Anybody want to reply?

colinc, sure thing, but they are used and need to be cleaned up, I'll let you know in a PM.

Yup had lots of those lately

I have an extra set from a 79 ZX that you can have if you want em.

I am putting a rebuilt N42 head on an L28 (79) and am having some issues. First I can't get the cam sprocket back on, I've read all the posts about this problem but have another problem to go with it, namely I believe the timing chain slipped about 3-4 notches from where it needs to be to maintain the timing. Short of pulling the front cover is there any solution? Other questions, if I have to pull the front cover do I need to take off the oil pan? Can the dizzy and oil pump be left on the cover? I've read lots of stuff about pulling the crank pulley but nothing about putting it back on. Any good ideas on taking out the crank bolt with no flywheel in place, just the bolts? The engine is sitting on a home made floor stand, but lifting it up is no issue it its needed. I used the wooden wedge when I pulled the head but obviously I screwed up somewhere! Any help will be greatly appreciated. I've spent the last 3 hours reading lots of posts about cam issues and front cover stuff but am still stuck. Thanks.

I have some more parts to give away, N47 head complete with intake, round port stock header, 280Z radiator with shroud and in couple of weeks a 75 L28 with N42 head (needs a complete bottom up rebuild). I traded a bunch of parts for a 2 ton engine hoist so a lot of my extras are now history.

I'd go with the 240, put in some elbow grease and some carb work, then drive it all day long. Just my 2 cents. My next project will be an early 240, that's only if I finish my current 280 sometime this century.

I have a similar issue with the water temp switch, on mine the wires are broken down into the switch. I have no EGR and a 79ZX dizzy and am not sure if losing the switch will matter. Any thoughts?

I have a N42 head which is undergoing basic valve work, the head was warped and will be milled on bottom and top to a total of (not positive yet) of around 20 to 25 thousandths. If I use 1 shim of 15 thousandths per tower will that be sufficient to maintain cam geometry? Or should I have it milled to a total of 30 and use 2 shims per tower? Thanx.

Kurk, great product works like a champ, keep up the good work. Thanx Mike

OK I've got a line on a set of SU's with an E88 intake and cleaned up balance tube, spendy but it might be worth it. Question is do you have to change the fuel and fuel return lines and do you hook up the water line to the manifold or just plug it off and hope for the best?

After a gentle rocking it works fine now. Thanks for the help.

Like Arne, I've also got 2 4 speed trannys, 1 I know is good the other not sure since it was given to me by the PO. You can have'em if pick em up or I'll meet in Colorado Springs.

I would eventually like to use a N36 intake and find a balance tube without all the emissions crap on the stock tube and a set of decent SU's.

Attached is a pic of parts and not shown is: pair of inspection lids (good shape), stock radiator with shroud, L28 engine (needs rebuild, blown #4 cylinder), N42 head, N42 EGR type intake manifold and stock exhaust manifold. You pay the shipping.

I'm more comfortable with tuning carbs, but that being said I know EFI is much more reliable when done correctly and requires far less tuning and tune ups. Just bought an 83 ZX engine and 5 speed to drop into my 75, not a rebuild but still came with a 1 year warranty, I'll put on my N42 intake with EFI since it will be a while to save some pennies to change to carbs if I decide to do that. Thanks for all the input. Now what to do with the old engines? Hmmm maybe a 3.1 stroker out of one of them.

I have 2 L28 engines, both are dead, one has a blown #4(zero compression) one has a sized #6 a mouse family moved in when it was stored by the PO, and need a complete rebuild. I need opinions on whether to keep the EFI (I hate the electrical crap involved) or switch to carbs. I'm thinking a N36 intake and stock SU's. Any opions will be appreciated. Thanks.