mjr45

When it was out, I inspected the bushings and didn't see any excessive wear or play.

Thanks, will try that tomorrow. It could very well be that the gears are not lined up since the main shaft was turned a lot when putting it back in.

I have a 4 speed which won't go into reverse shifts into 1-4 with no problem. Now this is with the engine not running, I am in the process of building another engine, the one in the car has a dead cylinder and won't start but thats a whole other issue. I've replaced the throw out bearing, have a new clutch in the old motor, new pilot bushing in the old motor, rebuilt clutch master and operating cylinders. I have not adjusted the pedal free play. It shifted fine when I took the tranny out now won't go into reverse. Any suggestions where to start?

Got a question, what does an auto auction house charge the seller for commission?

I haven't adjusted the rack bearing clearance, I wasn't aware I would need to make any adjustment since the rack was only taken out to replace the bushings and put on tie rod ends with new boots. I will look at the FSM for adjustment, it can't hurt.

All fittings have been greased including the steering rack and the car is off the ground without wheels on. On the steering rack the grease fittings were removed after greasing since leaving them on decreased the rack travel, there were no fittings on it just the threaded holes.

75 280Z, I put in new tie rod ends, ball joints and urethane bushings. Now when I turn the steering wheel (car off the ground) I hear a weird groaning type sound and a click at the beginning and end of travel. The groining sound is present thru out travel. Any ideas?

Agreed, just plain wrong!

Zed, this car was a daily driver prior to starting to work on it, but it had some issues when I decided to do a rolling restoration and after getting into the project found lots of other stuff which I expected, its just real frustrating when you know something worked prior to taking it off and now it doesn't. I've used the forums here extensively and they have been a great help in solving some of the issues. Thanx for your response.

Started last May on the "minor" () refresh of my 75 280, now it seems that everything I put back in that was fine last May, now doesn't work, i.e. clutch master won't pump fluid when connected, engine won't start, more electrical gremlins than I care to think about, brake booster making whooshing noise and can't bleed the brakes, moaning/clicking noise from the steering rack after new bushings, tie rod ends and ball joints. I'm getting close to the end of my rope, but can't quit because I have to much time, money, blood and sweat into this thing! The best thing to happen so far is I learned how to weld(sorta), prep paint(kinda OK) and polish, and got some valuable education from this site.

The other thing of note is the PO must have replaced this master with an aftermarket or other Nissan master because the guts look nothing like the one in FSM. This one has a screw in the bottom that fits into a slot in the interior piston which has a rubber seal on each end and the spring fits over the end, the fluid passages are open from the reservoir to the cylinder. Its just weird that it won't pump with the connecting rod attached to the cylinder.

Blue, I didn't make myself real clear, this is occurring with the master cylinder on my bench, not installed.

I rebuilt the clutch master and the operating cylinder. The master won't pump fluid thru, but if I take off the connecting rod and push the pump with a screwdriver it pumps, with the connecting rod in place, nothing? Weird, got me puzzled, any clues?

The 260 I believe was only made in 74, people who own them love them, IMO they are a sorta improved 240 and not fully a 280. If it is clean with no rust and runs well offer $6-750 and go to work on it, otherwise walk away and look for a better deal. Just my 2 cents.

Oops, brain fart, found the diagram sorry.

The FSM and other on-line resources only show the exterior or the location of the valve, I need to know how the guts go back in the body, spring, washers etc. It has 2 22mm bolts (top and bottom) which are easy, they can only go one way, but the plunger springs and washers are another story.

Anybody got an exploded diagram of the proportioning valve or a good explanation of how it goes together, my old one cracked and the bone yard one was really gummed up, so like an idiot I took it apart, then got called away and forgot exactly how it goes back together (what a dumb arse).

I dunno, sounds like some future major body and suspension work to me. If you like the car and can get for a decent price and are willing to tackle the issues with it go ahead. Enjoy it if you get it, they are fun, frustrating at times but fun.

Did you actually drive it or just listen to it rev up? Partial fiberglass rear quarter panels? Did he use fiberglass fenders and hood which would be ok, just not my cup of tea, might lead to future problems if not done correctly. I think I would walk away or offer $2K tops IMO.

I got this idea from Zedhead, try taking a small screw, solder the end of the ground wire to the screw(below the head) and gently screw it into the temp switch where the ground wire broke. It should work if you can make contact with the wire strands left inside the switch housing.

OK, I've checked battery voltage (11.98v, its not fully charged) checked voltage at the exciter wire which was 11.86v with ignition switch on and also on start, checked/cleaned my battery cables and connections, the starter will spin when jumped, but using the ignition switch I get nothing from the starter, no click, no spin. I do hear a solenoid click in the interior but thats all. Any clues as whats next.

I've recently painted my 280 with a single stage paint over epoxy primer and since it was my first real paint job, got some orange peel. I've sanded it all down (no more orange peel) sanded with 600, then 1000, then 1500 and 2000, buffed with Mother's heavy cut with a variable speed rotary and up close still see fine sanding scratches, I'm kinda at a loss as to what to do any help will be appreciated.

What it read is "I can get voltage...." at the fusible links. Luckily the AFM was not connected at the time. I will keep looking at the valve train, but so far I haven't seen any loose lash pads or anything real obvious, the valves were adjusted prior to putting the engine back in so I will recheck that and keep looking. The car in my avatar is the one I'm working on, .

I've been trying to solve the problem by checking all the connections and doing some electrical testing. The car has 2 fusible links on the right side firewall, I can voltage with the ignition switch on, but no continuity. The other issues are no fuel to the rail, good pressure up to the rail, no compression in #4, other cyl are all low doing a cold check, I pulled the valve cover, but can't really tell if its just a stuck valve on #4, after the "explosion" the other day the #4 plug was broken, I've felt inside with the piston at TDC and can't really feel any holes or metal chunks, but suspect I'll have to pull the head to really check. Any suggestions.

Yup, I checked all the connections today and can't find anything, on the AFM I was having a major brain fart, but that still wouldn't account for starting circuit, at least I don't think it would.