mjr45

Thanx Zed, I have a bad tendency to throw parts at it until the problem is solved instead of taking the methodical approach. That being said, since I've been doing this restore project, I figured replacing a lot of mechanical parts wouldn't hurt. After pulling the old starter a couple of times and inspecting it I was either going to replace or rebuild. I think part of treason for not running is that the AFM was plugged into the harness but not connected to the TB, so, I've read that the fuel pump requires a signal from the flapper in the AFM to keep pressure up in the system after the initial start. Thank you for all your responses to mine and others questions, your knowledge on these cars has been a huge help on this project.

Today I replaced the starter and the ignition switch still no joy. I jumped the starter and it turned over then the engine backfired and blew the dipstick out, buried it in my garage ceiling! Now I'm totally lost.

I had the key in the run position, the engine actually fired a couple of times and tried to run but died out, it ran as long as starter fluid was sprayed into it, I am getting a fuel pressure gauge today, but there was fuel in the lines of the rail. I'll check the ignition module today.

Zed, tried the jumper and the starter spun up, engine wouldn't start with multiple attempts and a can of starting fluid! So I'm thinking the problem is with the ignition module (the connector on the back of the ignition)?

Zed. I cleaned off the blade connector prior to connecting. The starter tested OK and spun up (at Auto Zone) but couldn't check the solenoid. After a lot of searching here, I believe I have all the connections correct, so I'm thinking its either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. I will send some pics later today.

Yup. Do you have an EGR setup? There are 2 wires on the injector harness that go to the EGR system.

Haven't tried the jumper yet, but will try today if it warms up a bit, no heat in the garage and we got 7" of snow overnite and still coming down. I had the starter checked and it spins with the solenoid bypassed, I'm not sure how to check if the solenoid is bad. A new solenoid was $34 and a new starter with the solenoid attached was $29 go figure.

The wire on the water temp switch goes on one of the bolts on the thermo housing. I have a 75 with the 2 loose white wires by the ECU, don't have a clue about them.

First off, I am totally ignorant when it comes to electrical issues, I can diagnose most mech issues but electrical, I'm lost. I recently finished a major redo of my 75, put the engine and tranny back in and reconnected all the wiring harness. Prior to the redo, the car started and ran fine. Now the starter won't spin, the fuel pump runs, lights work, but nothing else. I do hear a solenoid click, but its not the starter. The only electrical I changed was the coil. There is a wire on the passenger side harness with a loop connector that I believe goes to the starter solenoid with the battery hot wire. I tried disconnecting it and then nothing worked.There is also 2 red wires from the left firewall with 2 connectors 1 with inline fusable link and 1 without, I know the linked goes to the hot terminal and "think" the other to a neg ground, I disconnected the unlinked and everything that worked quit. I took pics of everything before disassembly for reference and then my computer crashed and I lost all of my pics, all the ones showing progress and my reference ones. Any help will be appreciated. Thanx for all the help I've recieved from these forums, you guys have saved me a lot of time and expense.

Those plug in connectors have a tendency to be real tough to get apart, on mine several broke off the wire, they are after all over 30 years old, a little "twist and shout" works.

Never seen a white one, might be interesting. Its your ride do what YOU like unless you are going for a concours trophy.

On my 75 the side marker lights are held on with 2 screws mounted on the outside and the wires have push on connectors about 4" long which connect into the wiring harness.

After several months of work and learning new skills (welding, painting, basic body work) finally have my 75 in color. Next up is putting it all back together, so far have replaced drivers side floor pan and farme rail, welded new steel on the inner front fenders, patched a hole in rear wheel arch, new bushings thru out, ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, brakes, new e-brake cable, all new weather stripping for all windows and the doors, lots of new nuts and bolts, new intake/exhaust studs, polished intake and throttle body, new water pump, radiator tested, cleaned and sealed, injectors cleaned and refurbished with new o-rings and seals, all new fuel line and clamps. Yet to do, new exhaust system, put in sound deadener, replace all the interior vinyl (A-pillar, etc), put all the lights back on, put carpet and seats back, then fire it up and take a spin. Here are a couple of pics of it in color.

I have a butt load of stock parts that I'm willing to let someone have for shipping cost. To include: N42 head with valves and cam Intake manifold (EGR type) with throttle body Exhaust manifold prop shaft oil pan oil pickup filter windshield wiper motor 4 speed tranny a bunch of other parts I haven't inventoried yet about 8 boxes of little stuff. If interested e-mail me @ cantwt2r@wildblue.net. If anyone wants the whole batch let me know.

Thanx again Z

Thanx, e-mail sent.

Here are a couple of pics of my Z project which started out as a simple refresh and different paint. It has since evolved into something more! Pics are of the engine before and after with all new rubber lines, injectors rebuilt with new O rings, intake and exhaust bead blasted, new hose clamps etc. etc. The other pic is the body ready for primer. The PO had a gorgeous paint job with PURPLE flames which were well done, but don't fit on a Z IMO, so the new color will be Daytona yellow with black racing stripes on the driver side. All the rubber in the suspension has been replaced, new struts and brakes. I know the block is not Datsun Blue, but I don't really care it still looks good to me. Thanx

I'm trying to locate the 2 interior knobs for the dash dimmer and trip meter reset. I've tried all the on line parts suppliers with no luck and none of the bone yards locally have any Z parts. Any suggestions as to where to look would be appreciated. Don't know if it matters, but its a 75, 280.

tlorber, did you use foam carpet padding? I'm looking for padding to put under all the carpet on top of the Dynamat and not sure how well foam will hold up.

Thanx Z

Zcurves, I've tried to find some on-line with no luck and the bone yards around here don't have any. If you want to part with a set, PM me and we 'll see if we work out something. If they are intact with no holes blown thru I can fix the rust and the covers.

When I took the insulator out of my Z, it basically crumbled apart, so I'm trying 2-3 layers of Dynamat to see it that will work, the problem is getting it up behind the heater over the tranny tunnel plus all the cutouts.

I used something over 40 to do a 280Z, lots more of these things than I realized.

The Au-ve-co ones I use fit well, very slightly tighter in the panel holes than the stock. The stock number is 11705 and cost is $0.38/ea.

grantf, nope the rust has eaten completely thru in an area about 2" square, bubbled the vinyl cover off. I don't have the skill or tools to fab a new piece, so I guess I'll keep looking.