easyguy71

Since joining the Datsun forums, I have heard that the driveshaft should be disconnected on a manual tranny. In training as a mechanic, I've never heard this unless the tranny has a problem. They do not just pop into gear while being towed. Has anyone seen a problem with towning when the driveshaft is connected? I've done it many many times through country roads, pothole areas, hours and hours on a highway, city corners, etc.. and on Datsun Z cars. I am curious if this is an urban legend or has anyone ever truly had a tranny kick into gear spontaniously while being towed. Not a legend of some distant friend or family member but anyone who's seen it with their own two eyes. Anyone?

MSA (Motorsport Automotive) sells stainless guides to upgrade from the bronze ones that the early leaded fuel cars used.

Rotary control for the flux capacitor? Got anything that doesn't work that you know right off?

http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/37_267/products_id/1163 Zmanofwashington has what you need. Give Oliver a call. 800-518-5480

Seen the cobra packages for them?

The "tradesman" should have read the documents you provide. If a vehicle owner says "my car is different. Here's what you need to know" then they should be listening. That's not a common thing, an owner providing info on how to do a specific job. When the "tradesman" started having difficulties getting it off, they should have stopped and found out why. My thoughts are the same as everyone else's. If possible, find another garage. lawyer time. No way you should be paying for their screw-up.

Edmonton, Alberta. What's a salt truck? Sanders? I've heard about them, haven't seen one. There are a few because now and then I see a corner with some sand on it. Most of the city is ice. Now removal after 10 inches of pack. There's a reason most people in this city have trucks or vans.

www.kijiji.ca for all of BC. There's a very low miles black one for sale for about 7 grand. Higher on the initial cost, it would be worth it because of no bodywork or major repairs needed from the looks of it. Guy's had it up for a while. That price may be negotiable as well.

Blue, the UPS people will explain customs to you if you ask. You take care of going to customs with a copy of the sales slip/packing slip and the shipping invoice, pay your tax on it and customs contacts the shipper to tell them it's paid. Then there are no brokerage fees because you brokered it yourself.

http://www.smokin-geez.com/test2ndhotdeal.html He's in Hudson, Quebec. He will ship via greyhound bus. Probably your cheapest bet. His English is so-so. But if you use picture references, you're good. Also, in Calgary is a user here named Jim. PM me and I'll give youhis e-mail addy. And don't forget to go to www.xenons30.com - under the reference tab - you can download for free the factory service manual. It's ten times better than Haynes or Chiltons. Wish I were still out there. I'd give you a hand to get her running. Check out www.atlanticZ.ca under tech tips for the basics to cover. Sometimes (often) you get lucky with these old girls and they start up with little effort! Well designed. Where abouts in Ontario are you? There may be a local Z club with someone willing to give you a hand. Search out Ontario Z car clubs. They exist. Good luck, buddy!

Have you tried adjusting the timing (mechanical) to see if it is simply out? F54 block engines had the flat tops that rise above the level of the block as well. He may just be out a link on timing.

I just spray the area with spatter-guard. Shields it quite nicely. With the mig I don't need to bother with the washer, just use a nut that is the right sized center and fill it up. If you are able to solid weld inside the diameter of an 8 to 10 mm stud and fill the nut with a rod, I do have to applaud your patience. If you do it with no pores, I bow down to you! Wish I had tig as an option. Clean and once you know what you are doing, it's easier.

Is there enough stub sticking out to weld a nut to it? Weld inside the hole of the nut to the stud bit remaining. The heat from the welding often breaks it free of the rust and allows it to be turned out.

zmanofwashington I believe was making some and as well, Charlie at http://datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm

I presume you've already looked into fuses and tested fusible links (black box of wires just forward of the battery. From there, start moving wiring harnesses around (jiggle, tugging) and see if you get your lights back. May be that a harness is shorting out and causing further problems.