easyguy71

Since joining the Datsun forums, I have heard that the driveshaft should be disconnected on a manual tranny. In training as a mechanic, I've never heard this unless the tranny has a problem. They do not just pop into gear while being towed. Has anyone seen a problem with towning when the driveshaft is connected? I've done it many many times through country roads, pothole areas, hours and hours on a highway, city corners, etc.. and on Datsun Z cars. I am curious if this is an urban legend or has anyone ever truly had a tranny kick into gear spontaniously while being towed. Not a legend of some distant friend or family member but anyone who's seen it with their own two eyes. Anyone?

MSA (Motorsport Automotive) sells stainless guides to upgrade from the bronze ones that the early leaded fuel cars used.

Rotary control for the flux capacitor? Got anything that doesn't work that you know right off?

http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/37_267/products_id/1163 Zmanofwashington has what you need. Give Oliver a call. 800-518-5480

Seen the cobra packages for them?

The "tradesman" should have read the documents you provide. If a vehicle owner says "my car is different. Here's what you need to know" then they should be listening. That's not a common thing, an owner providing info on how to do a specific job. When the "tradesman" started having difficulties getting it off, they should have stopped and found out why. My thoughts are the same as everyone else's. If possible, find another garage. lawyer time. No way you should be paying for their screw-up.

Edmonton, Alberta. What's a salt truck? Sanders? I've heard about them, haven't seen one. There are a few because now and then I see a corner with some sand on it. Most of the city is ice. Now removal after 10 inches of pack. There's a reason most people in this city have trucks or vans.

www.kijiji.ca for all of BC. There's a very low miles black one for sale for about 7 grand. Higher on the initial cost, it would be worth it because of no bodywork or major repairs needed from the looks of it. Guy's had it up for a while. That price may be negotiable as well.

Blue, the UPS people will explain customs to you if you ask. You take care of going to customs with a copy of the sales slip/packing slip and the shipping invoice, pay your tax on it and customs contacts the shipper to tell them it's paid. Then there are no brokerage fees because you brokered it yourself.

http://www.smokin-geez.com/test2ndhotdeal.html He's in Hudson, Quebec. He will ship via greyhound bus. Probably your cheapest bet. His English is so-so. But if you use picture references, you're good. Also, in Calgary is a user here named Jim. PM me and I'll give youhis e-mail addy. And don't forget to go to www.xenons30.com - under the reference tab - you can download for free the factory service manual. It's ten times better than Haynes or Chiltons. Wish I were still out there. I'd give you a hand to get her running. Check out www.atlanticZ.ca under tech tips for the basics to cover. Sometimes (often) you get lucky with these old girls and they start up with little effort! Well designed. Where abouts in Ontario are you? There may be a local Z club with someone willing to give you a hand. Search out Ontario Z car clubs. They exist. Good luck, buddy!

Have you tried adjusting the timing (mechanical) to see if it is simply out? F54 block engines had the flat tops that rise above the level of the block as well. He may just be out a link on timing.

I just spray the area with spatter-guard. Shields it quite nicely. With the mig I don't need to bother with the washer, just use a nut that is the right sized center and fill it up. If you are able to solid weld inside the diameter of an 8 to 10 mm stud and fill the nut with a rod, I do have to applaud your patience. If you do it with no pores, I bow down to you! Wish I had tig as an option. Clean and once you know what you are doing, it's easier.

Is there enough stub sticking out to weld a nut to it? Weld inside the hole of the nut to the stud bit remaining. The heat from the welding often breaks it free of the rust and allows it to be turned out.

zmanofwashington I believe was making some and as well, Charlie at http://datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm

I presume you've already looked into fuses and tested fusible links (black box of wires just forward of the battery. From there, start moving wiring harnesses around (jiggle, tugging) and see if you get your lights back. May be that a harness is shorting out and causing further problems.

www.xenons130.com free factory service manual download. Better than Haynes or chiltons. Measure how much voltage is getting to the coil as a start and see if it's enough. Do you have a multi-meter? If not, get one and follow the step-by-step in the manual. Without numbers, it's hard to offer solid advice.

Limited Slip Diff..... I hadn't thought of it the other way... been working too much, I think! !

Ask him if he's done experimenting with his LSD or not..... some of us are waiting to see what he's tinkering with....

Black dragon quality doesn't impress me. MSA costs more but quality is better. You still don't say were you are in Canada. I'm from North Ontario (Kapuskasing - former GM test driver up there) and now a mechanic in Edmonton. Got a few contacts across the country for used parts. Where are you? Oh, if you pay customs Canada yourself (get the shipping weigh bill from the shipper - free service - and a copy of the packing list from the shipper - free service, you can canll customs, pay the taxes and they will call UPS to just send it to your door. It is that easy. Or ship via post office instead of UPS. Post office does the customs thing no charge.

Zman of Washington (Oliver) who owns the Z store has a reputation for carrying high quality parts and as well for being able to find things not available in North America with his contacts overseas. He is a z mechanic, z parts supplier and offers advice when he can at another z forum. Never had issues with his stuff and he's easy to deal with, gets back to you and stands behind his product.

I bought my stick-on rubberized sound deadening squares at NAPA. Work great!

http://www.datsunstore.com/ Oliver can help you. He's got access to things in Japan that you cannot get here, so if you don't see it, ask anyways.

Direct swapped parts, more often than not (at least for the L24-L28 engine) I'll opt for the last of the technologies. They were the ones on the strongest of cars. When I replaced mine, I also changed the hold-down bolts to stainless ones that received allan keys. Makes it a lot easier to get on and off, and the more bolts I can replace to run off allan keys, the smaller my tool kit becomes.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/ - I bought a new nissan manual controller there about a year and a half ago, no problem. or if not available through them, contact Oliver at http://www.datsunstore.com/ - he can re-condition them.

From what I recall (been a while since it was discussed in group) the best we could come up with was that the aluminum conducted heat to the injector and that may have caused problems. The blocks made of the more plastic-like material were just better insulators and material costs would have been cheaper.