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thanks. ill try that but it has electronic ignition. would it still have a points plate?

we tried that too and it didnt do anything either. yeah glad to see washintonions myself .

is that what those are on the carbs? im used to american v8s and i had never seen those and didnt know what they were for but wondered if the were relevant. how much is supposed to be in there?

and as far as i know everything is hooked up right except those two stray wires. the black wire kills the engine when touched to the neg. of the coil and shows system voltage, the green shows nothing and doesnt do aything. i thought maybe the tach was put on the pos. of the coil instead of the negative but we got it to where the only wires on the coil were the run and start power wires, and the ground. and everything was the same driving wise so theres a few wires on there that seem useless. oh yeah and one of them is tied to the stray black wire and if its off the black wire has no power to it. if anyone knows what these wires are that would be cool. i looked at a 72 wiring diagram and i couldnt figure out which ones were for what

hi guys. wow i gave it two days not expecting a whole lot of feedback and im impressed by how much help i got right away . ok an update, weve been trying to drive the car more to test more theories we had and it drives better but its still not really driving. sometimes i can get to about ten or so mph and shift into second before it tries to quit and also at this point i can continue driving it (i have a nice long driveway) without it totally dying it just stalls out or whatever you would call it but it will kick in again even if i dont move my foot from the gas pedal the whole time. it surely is strange. if youve ever shorted the coil or anything like that where you ground a wire and the engine starts to die but will stay running if you take the wire back off, it does that sorta thing. its very sporadic. anyway although it seems very much like a shortage somewhere i will search for vacuum leaks and such tomorrow and take some pictures. my auto tech teacher suggested a wiggle test of the harnesses on the torquing side of the motor but it didnt kill it in nutruel. however one time it died and wouldnt start back up until i wiggled the harness. so who knows. maybe wind draft or bumps are shorting a wire somewhere. anyways thanks all for the responses!!!

oh yes and also, sometimes it will idle for long periods of time no problem, and then occasionally it will just quit like it does when im trying to drive it, and it starts right back up and idles all day long again. when trying to drive it if it starts to die and you put the clutch in it will stay running. and sometimes if it moves with no throttle and doesnt die and you put the clutch in and stop it will finally die, but not everytime. ive talked to many people and nobody has ever even heard of this. weve made sure the fuel filter was clear too. thanks again

so i recently aquired my first 240z after wanting one for a few years. it needs a little help but im baffled by a problem and its my first z so im unfamiliar with the car. got the car home. its a 1973 240z. had to buy a distributor cap and plug wires (electronic ignition) to get it to fire and had to put the blk/yllw wire on the coil for it to run. the previous owner is deceased so i cant talk to him and ask what he did but he was messing with the wiring for sure. i got it to run (suprisingly well) in the first two days but when i try to move it it dies. it idles excellent and revs up excellent in nutreul, and it moves fine while disengaging the clutch but once the clutch is fully disengaged it acts as if the key was immediatly turned off. it will idle down the road for a while if there is no throttle applied but as soon as throttle is applied it dies. i cant help but assume its an electrical problem because the wiring was tampered with and in nutruel, it runs fantastic. doesnt even smoke once its warmed up. the dome light, headlights, brake lights (not tail lights), backup lights, and hazards do not work as well. and the tach is pegged at 8k anytime the ignition is on run or start. im stumped. also there are two wires coming off the ignition harness that are not being used, a green and a black i believe, and i dont know what they are for. anyways any help or advice would be great!!! thanks guys