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well i have a 73 z i was planning on using as a driver while i put my challenger back together and of course the z bug is taking over... the problem was i knew that zs are valuable and desireable to us datsun lovers so i was holding off on doing things like making my own bare bones dash and such.. partly because i was under the impression that it was a relatively rust free z for washington.. well today i realized i was wrong.. i knew the passenger side had a hole in the floor and the frame rail was bad along with the passenger side sway bar mount, but i thought that was the worst of it. well today i was cleaning out the trunk and realized that the vinyl was holding moisture. i was gonna leave it all in since it was there but i finally said screw it ill gut the interior since its holding moisture anyways well that sucked cause i found out that datsun didnt coat their metal excpet with vinyl. so my trunk has some rust and the drivers floor is toast.. so its looking pretty bleek and suddently it was much more scary to drive down the street. so im not gonna worry about resale value since most would consider this a parts car.. so race dash and bare bones floor pans here we come!

same boat. same problem. does anyone know how to rebuild it at home instead of sending it out? that link looked really cool but would that work with a tach thats already fried? does anyone know what part if the tach goes bad when this happens?

SHE LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the speedo cable was somehow grounding out the voltage regulator or tach or something... i unscrewed the speedo cable from the speedo and it drives fine now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i realize im quite late to the conversation haha but try owning a 1971 dodge coronet (the year they only made 4 doors)... thats the most frustrating conversation starter ive ever delt with.. "oh nice bonneville!" "thanks its a dodge coronet" "oh cool whats under the hood a 318? " no a 383 "chev?" "no a big block dodge" "no 383s are big block chevs" "no theyre small block stroker chevs that never came factory in anything.. or big block dodges.. b engine to be precise" "no"... every time... one girl said it was a wagon.. i didnt say anything back. then after these rediculous conversations theyre like yeah that things really cool are you gonna restore it? and then i give up (its rather minty concidering its a rust free dodge from 1971 with the original paint in good shape). anyways the z brings lots of confusion but that coronets a whopper when i bring it to auto class...

ok. i was messing around, i think i got the carb syncd up better and the idle set better. i FINALLY figured out where the mixture screws are haha but although it runs a little nicer its still not driving right.... BUT! i found out that if you pump the brakes really fast itll kill it. everytime! so i unplugged the vacuum booster and plugged it off but it still kills it to pump the breaks. also if you pump the clutch a bunch it kills it. and i pulled the heater vent thingy and it died so i figured it was coincidence cause that couldnt do anything but i restarted it and as soon as i pulled and pushed really fast the car died. multiple times. but thats it as far as interior bugs. so im realllllllllly confused now. cause i was almost certain it was carb stuff and fuel starvation but this makes me think vacuum or ??

ok. its been a few months and i got busy and had to set it aside for a while... but i moved it today to get it out of the way of something and i got reinspired. ive yet to find a fuel pump at the tank.... i definetly agree that its fuel starvation and i have found that if you rev it up (probably 4k or so) and hold it for a few seconds it runs out of fuel for a second but quickly keeps running again (so the float bowls are giving more than theyre recieving?). i had the idea to run a little portable fuel tank at the compartment fuel filter to tell whether or not it is a pump or carb issue or a fuel system leading to the filter issue but the only thing i could find to use was an atc70 tank and im not sure that it was an acurate test, but nothing changed. so i thinks its the carbs. i have no money so i still dont have an su dvd and ive been looking for tips online to richen the mixture but im not finding much. i guess at this point, can anyone tell me how to richen the mixture via carb screws or however these are adjusted? and its a 4 bolt su im pretty sure. thanks everybody!

yeah i guess so huh im not used to sidedrafts at all :/

just plain running lean? how would i go about richening up the mixture?

im just not finding that tank pump. im assuming i dont have it.

when you do the filter at the tank, do you clean it or replace it?

i meant the mechanical fuel pump at the motor that i thought i had but that sounds like my problem. i blew air into the gastank from a fuel line going into the filter and it didnt change anything. i should still check it though huh. how would i check the exhaust? i know it has normal running car smoke in the mornings

yeah but at this point im expecting it to be some REALLY stupid. like the ignition isnt hooked up or something impossible like that . of course at this point no matter how much of a pisser, i just want it to work like a real z haha

so then is this seperate from the fuel pump at the motor? if so then ill definently check it. what exactly did your z do

oh ok yeah that makes sense. i realized btw that the reason it doesnt die is because its basically compression starting itself and thats the bucking. its dying and then restarting and then dying etc. also only the front carb had the filter. i aligned the holes in the inlet and bolt too thinking maybe thats what was wrong but it wasnt.

ok i unplugged the vacuum advance and drove it and it ran a little bad and still cut out. blew air into the tank via fuel line and it still cuts out. i tried to do the plug picture but the only time it actually died was on a road.... so i couldnt because i had to get off the road still gonna try blowing the tank again then also check the carb filters to see if its those thats the problem

alright haha. someone mentioned watching the timing light while driving it to see if when it cuts out whether or not its spark related. im waiting to borrow the light, but ill definently try it. also i thought that sense i tested the fuel pump and the fuel was clean and consistent it wouldnt be that but i should blow air through the lines . fiveleaf...what does that mean? is the problem in the distributor? how do you correct it? thanks guys it really helps a lot to have people that will take time out of their day to help others

alrighty. timing had been adjusted. different ignition. new fuel filter. oil in the dampers. fuel pump tested for 5 to 10 seconds per carb. runs fine in nutruel. acting more sporadic than before. not just a mph thing. getting extremely discouraged. theres got to be someone out there who has had this problem and knows exactly what it is.

that would make sense because although i can blow through the filter easily, i dont have a gas cap. i cant find one big enough and havent gotten a hold of z specialties yet. i do have a plastic bag covering it but that would make sense thanks everyone it really is a huge help. ill try the filter first.

well the tach is still pegged at 8k so im nervous to rev it too high but id say ive reved it to 45 or 5 and ive yet to have it die while revving it up in nutruel. however. ive had it idle and all the sudden die but start back up and idle for a long time once or twice.

mines a 73

ok at this point its pretty much a mphh threshold but i think its about 10-15 cause i thought my speedo didnt work but i coasted down a hill in nutruel and it got up to 35 so anyway. first gear i can rev while driving up to the mph limit. and second i can cruise at driveway speeds but theres still a threshold i can cross...

pretty sure. theres no point system and it looks just like electronic ignition. also tested the mechanical fuel pump and its good. ill check the oil level in the dampers.

heres some pics of the coil, motor, distributor, the two stray wires, and some wiring under the pass. side of the dash

i dont know whats installed because it looks stock though i know its not and i bought the car with it in there so idk the car runs really great and will drive for a little bit but its inconsistent. someone mentioned that, because it backfired when i tried to throttle through it, its starved for fuel and under load its having trouble. would this be relevant to the damper oil in the carbs? i still have no clue what thats for never worked with side draft carbs before