Captain_Zeros

While we're talking about battery posts, if you're not married to originality a GM sidepost battery pretty much eliminates your chances of welding your battery to your fender. Previous owner of my car put one in it and I stuck with it. Just gotta swap the battery cables.

I've got a 3 row OEM radiator of unknown year in my car, no auto trans cooler on mine. Also I heartily suggest replacing the drain **** with a low profile plug of some kind, I munched the plastic draincock on my friend's steep driveway and puked coolant everywhere, as the extra low radiator is the first point of contact at the front of the car. I used a cut down bolt and rubber seal to get me home, and never bothered to replace it. Interestingly enough my drain plug is in a different location than yours, it is on the drivers side not centrally located.

Same kit, same issue. I was able to compress the suspension enough to get them on through some creative jack use.

I had the same issue. They're for the key in ignition buzzer and I just left them detached (the originals were also disconnected when I got it, guess a previous owner didn't like buzzers either). Only down side is if it's not hooked up your key buzzer will not work. (if you consider that a down side :stupid: )

I've more good things than bad things about 280zx distributors with e12-80 modules. Still pretty readily available.

I'm having flashbacks at all this talk of the thrust bearing....... when I went through my Z's suspension one of mine was straight up missing..... only one too. I'm surprised the steering wasn't very heavy without it, and nothing seemed to actually be worn because of it. Ain't life weird.

What about having some speed-holes in the hood?

Both of those things are controlled by the same set of switches. I'd check there FIRST.

I used Sachs KF536-01 sourced from O'Reilly's when I did my clutch a year and a half ago which cost me about $95. It has been adequate so far in my relatively stock Z, but then again just about anything should be. Convenient enough it came with a new throwout bearing carrier too, not just the bare bearing. They still list that same part number in their catalog as a "PowerTorque®" brand clutch kit. No idea if it's related or not.

Congrats! I'll just be over here resisting my urges to make fun of california

Not the same model, but just for posterity's sake here is what my 1973 KM-1520ZC radio looks like, with the gray/black wire soldered straight to the case like your white/black

Awesome Z! 260Z Carb Adjustment Manual.PDF 1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf As a fellow '73 240Z owner, have a book on flattop carbs and a book on common dealer '73 fuel system changes that aren't well documented in the service manual! Sadly I can't help your originality, I pulled my flattop carbs because they sat for a decade and gummed up with fuel and swapped them for a set of early carbs that came in the trunk when I bought it.

I personally use 3-in-1 branded straight 20w motor oil, comes in a convenient little squeeze bottle like the normal 3 in 1 and has a picture of an electric motor on it.

Also don't forget and leave your rag in there when you go to turn the engine over :stupid: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/49961-how-simple-valve-adjust-can-ruin-your-whole-day.html

And there was much rejoicing!

Speaking of replacing the plastic layer with some kind of bushing, this is what I did to bring my 280zx distributor back to life, a couple hardware store oil impregnated sintered bronze bushings. 2 years and the action is still great. I had to grind a bit of one for rivet clearance, it was kind of a mess due to the oil burning off, just a note.

My 240z was parked for a decade when I got it, and the shoes were thoroughly seized. The only thing that worked for me was lots of hammering and swearing.

If it'll run off starting fluid then it's a fuel issue. If the fuel pump can provide enough flow, than the problem downstream of the fuel pump. Time to look at the carbs, sounds like. What carbs are you running?

Awesome, glad to hear it! I guess I know who in the Seattle area I need to bother if I need a pair of ears or whats between them!

Sounds like you're on the right track. Get those leaks sorted out and you'll probably have brakes. When I got my Z it had been parked for a decade and one by one I ended up having to replace everything in the system except most the hardlines and the proportioning block. Master cylinder, rubber flex hoses, calipers, wheel cylinders, and eventually the booster too (losing your brake booster while driving is pretty exciting, in the bad way)

I forget the length of that particular line off hand, but you want m10x1.0 inverted flare fittings on a 3/16" line. Here are some links to pre flared 8", 12", and 20" lines: American Grease Stick Poly-Armour PAJ308 - Brake Line | O'Reilly Auto Parts American Grease Stick Poly-Armour PAJ312 - Brake Line | O'Reilly Auto Parts American Grease Stick Poly-Armour PAJ320 - Brake Line | O'Reilly Auto Parts I heartily suggest buying a pre-flared line with fittings on it. Flaring lines is kind of a pain and preflared lines are pretty cheap, especially if you only need to replace one or two.

I don't know about the 280Z, but on my 240Z the hatch support welds broke off the body, but it was pretty easy to see where the broken welds were, I just lined up the broken welds and drilled and bolted it in place.

Have you gone through the front brakes too? If the MC and rear cylinders were shot I can about guarantee the fronts were too. Also make sure all the rubber lines are replaced too. If you pulled the MC apart a bench bleed is recommended, and in fact most people recommend not trying to service it at all because if they have any pitting on the bore they tend to go bad rather quickly anyways (and new ones are readily available for very reasonable prices).

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but don't SUs get richer as float bowl fuel levels drop? As fuel levels drop, the surface of fuel in the jet moves downwards to a narrower portion of the needle and actually uncovers more surface area for engine vacuum to draw on?

I put in another 2 cents for "check the fuel system" On my '73 the culprit was a pile of crap that got caught in the electric fuel pump's filter, and it had very similar symptoms of stomping on the throttle and nothing happening and trying to limp down an offramp and waiting for 5 minutes.