Captain_Zeros

They can fail in the opposite direction as well, mine seized solid as if the fan was bolted straight to the pulley. Sounded like a jet plane above 1500 rpm.

Every pipe fitting on an early Z is British thread. The reason for confusion is that at and above 1/2" they have the same thread pitch, just slightly different profile threads, so they'll screw together and even seal (I wouldn't trust high pressure systems, but nothing in our cooling and oiling systems can really be considered "high pressure" in industrial terms). HOWEVER: below 1/2" the thread pitches do not match up, trying to put a 18 tpi fitting into a 19 tpi hole is a recipe for a bad day. Another note: Teflon tape is NOT a sealant, it is merely a lubricant that lets you crank down on the fittings a bit harder to get a tighter mechanical seal. The more you know!

You mean the old Victoria British catalog? Black Dragon is the same company, they just split their japanese car division off under a separate name a while ago.

There are two fans available up through 1974, early cars were equipped with a 15" fan and later ones with a 15 3/8" fan (1973 240Z 1974 260Z Fuel System Modifications pdf, page 16)

Post #3 is for a 1974 260Z, which is why it has the dual fuel pumps diagrammed out in the factory service manual. Post #2 is for a 1973 240Z (I had it on hand quicker cause I have one!) and those quite often had the electric fuel pump added in by the dealer to help with vapor lock and percolation issues with the newer flat top emissions carburetors. Here's the original documentation on what's involved in the '73 fuel pump retrofit: http://www.xenons30.com/files/1973%20240z%201974%20260z%20fuel%20system%20modifications.pdf Funfact: On my car the electric fuel pump was installed, but the matching relays in the cabin didn't exist, so the fuel pump never even ran in the first place!

No prob, my car is a 6/73 240z, and isn't too far off the early 260Zs. Just be careful with your interior panels, they like to shatter when you bend them. Just go slow and make sure you've removed all the little plastic rivet fasteners (you have to shove the pin through then pry the rivet out the front, then try and find all the pins afterwards) and go slowly. The taillight panel has to come out first, then the side panels can be weaseled out. On my '73 the hatch strut bracket gets in the way of removing the drivers side interior panel, I think later cars have gas struts on both side but I don't remember when they started doing that. Also, I have to unbolt my shoulder seatbelts to get the next panel forwards to come up away from the chassis far enough to let me sneak the rear side panels out from under it. The bit I found the sketchiest to remove was right up by the side vents, that corner is pretty fragile.

It just so happens the rear interior of my car is all taken apart right now! The big black blob is the vapor tank, and just below it is the fuel filler neck.

They do connect to something inside the car! There is a vapor recovery tank up inside the passenger side sail panel above the gas filler cap (item 3), and a bunch of hoses all run to it. Funny enough my '73 has one of those hoses (I think #7 if memory serves) chopped and spliced back together as well, I think it was a convenience thing since roughly half the hose is inside the car and half is outside.

Here is the 260Z specific diagram.

It's in chapter FE of the FSM.

Hah, just an aside, I also had a 45 mph clogged filter once, it just took me more than one day to find it though. Had to stick to surface streets!

Roadkill is about having fun with cars, and I think they accomplished that. That Z was clapped out when they got it, the alternative probably would've been sending it to the crusher. That being said, I wouldn't mind having that set of louvers....

Have you checked out if it has a falling-apart cam oil spray bar? They are made of a series of tubes and cast blocks swaged together and can warp, if they warp bad enough the end tubes can collide with the cams or even fall all the way off.

6 and 2 are both +12v (ideally), however 6 is ignition switched 12v that runs through the car to various places and 2 is straight to the battery. Pin 3 is your voltage sense pin, so you want a really good clean 12 volt source attached to it so the alternator can know whether to charge or not. Depending on the condition of your electrical system (40 years old!) it could cause some voltage fluctuations due to the alternator getting voltage dropped signals from the wire that runs all over the car instead of the bee-line wire to the battery.

Speaking of voltage drop, there is a giant ballast resistor on the end of that wire next to the coil too!

that's code for "Nope, no idea!" Stuff like this tends to vary by location a lot too, since nobody enjoys shipping wheels.

Have you checked timing at full advance? If the distributor is not operating as intended, it will have unforseen side effects.

They should install original 240Z ignitions switches, so the key just falls out on the floor while the car stays running :tapemouth

Everyone knows how much tougher cars were back in the day Every piece of metal that bends and crumples is a piece of your body that isn't bending and crumpling. Edit: Says the guy who daily drives a 40 year old sportscar made of japanese beer cans

I've never seen an original one that still works :stupid: Basically the traces you see on the glass are conductive wire, what you see is what you get. They're not insulated so you can poke at them with a multimeter to see if they have continuity or not.

Did somebody say 1973 bumper? Not the best picture, but here's a looksy of mine.

Only when you turn the engine off? Any odor if the car has been sitting for a while? Does it get any worse if your gas tank is full versus empty? A common culprit is the rats nest of vapor recovery lines that live in the back of the car, but that doesn't have a lot to do with whether the engine is running or not.

Camera on hand for the momentous occasion! New engine mounts?

if I recall correctly there is a 3 pin 1/8" connector with a couple blue and a red wire that goes to the antenna switch on the radio and a 2 pin green/black connector that is non-connected for the electric fuel pump that doesn't exist, at least on my 73. Your mileage may vary, of course. I heartily suggest perusing the factory service manual, available online via XenonS30

I oiled my KYBs a year (and a few thousand miles) ago, despite them saying not to. I figured "why the hell not". No issues thus so far. Like jcb I didn't brim the tubes, it only takes a very small amount of oil.