Captain_Zeros

On the right edge of Stanley's picture is the passenger side end of the moustache bar diff mount, if you need a little more context.

thaaaaats why I'm deferring to people who know more than me :stupid:

Looks like a clutch type LSD to me, but I'll defer to people who know more than me.

To work right it has to be a special flexible pre-molded hose, otherwise it'll side load the nozzle and interfere with the choke returning. Last I checked ZTherapy stocks them, probably other folks too.

If you're looking to drop a buck there are always the Group Harrington stainless steel bumpers, they're $1200 a set (plus shipping, eek), but I've heard nothing but good things about them. Stainless will outlast chromed steel any day.

I have a 280zx radiator in my 240z, I had to ream out the mounting holes about 1mm to make them line up. It fits under the hood, but the extra height of the radiator extends downwards. Watch curbs, I smashed my plastic drain plug off on a friend's driveway, it's the lowest & farthest forward point. Luckily the brass was soft and deformed instead of cracking, it still holds pressure fine. I replaced the plastic drain plug with a lower profile metal bolt I chopped down and added an o-ring. You will need 280zx radiator hoses if you want to use the 280zx radiator.

New fuel pump?

I know you said you checked fuel, but those symptoms will show up if you have restricted fuel flow too. I know I spent a week on a wild goose chase before finally looking at my rearmost fuel filter by the tank and finding it disgustingly clogged.

Clarify what you mean "real rpm is on limit"? A stock 1973 240Z has no electronic rev limiter of any kind, it's all mechanical. On that note, is your Z in stock configuration?

Looking forward to more video! I pre-emptively subscribed to your youtube as soon as I found that video over a year ago

Neat! This guy takes things one step further!

except that 16 pounds is unsprung

just the housing itself, or the purpose of all the switches & sensors? The housing itself is a different casting, the late ones have three bolts and a bunch of tapped holes for sensors, the early ones have two bolts and less tapped holes for sensors, as you've probably already found. They both will bolt to any L block as long as you have the matching housing & cover.

Don't have to go to Japan to get that, they're often known as Ford Wrenches and I've got a couple olde timey ones in my toolbox from right here in America Not pretty and new, but definitely still full of life. (A number of companies make new ones too, as you've found)

Budget fans! Junkyard dual fan assembly out of an Altima of some description, fit after I dremelled off the corners to clear the framerails and notched it to clear the upper radiator hose. Dual speed, a single fan on low speed was almost enough for summer driving in Seattle so I have both fans wired up to low. (barely adequate is not adequate). High speed turns my car into an airplane and I haven't bothered to wire it up yet, but I might some day. Overall cost ended up under $50 including fans, relays, and and a thermal switch (which was half of that!). Three row radiator out of a 280zx that I got for free with the purchase of a gas tank :cheeky: "Held water fine until I rolled the car, haven't checked it since"

I've got a spare from a '73, but it's in Seattle. Shipping alone would probably cost more than sourcing one locally, however.

Yes, pictures would be pretty important. It could be extremely urgent, or not very, it all depends what you mean by "connects but useless" Consider that your tension/compression rods attach to the end of those stubby little frame rails, they position the front wheels fore & aft and if one gives way you might find yourself suddenly veering into a ditch or oncoming traffic.

For what it's worth I love my internally regulated alternator. The external mechanical regulator is absolutely prehistoric.

Congrats! Your story reminds me a lot of my '73! Except mine had always been stored inside or under a tarp for ten years before not being covered because I was coming to get it .... oh, and no snow, lovely west coast springtime for me. Good call on the brakes, mine seemed good at first glance but were totally hosed after I dug a little deeper. Had to go through my whole fuel system from tank to carbs and my whole brake system from pedal to wheels. Clutch hydraulics too! Put in the time and elbow grease and you'll have yourself a car to be proud of before you know it!

12.2:1, hot damn

I like the idea of throwing the whole thing in an ultrasonic cleaner, didn't think of that. Mine weren't clogged though, they were rounded out by some nimno with a pair of pliers, a little persuasion with a pair of vice grips had them nozzle-shaped again and working great.

Heh, I got mine from Brian at TechnoVersions and it fit the best I've ever seen a part fit on anything. I test fit it before cleaning everything up and it didn't slide in, but after I brushed the road grime off it was sittin' pretty. I bet an extra layer of paint or two would've added too much thickness.

Resolved, I attacked the nozzles with a pair of vice-grips and fixed a bit of a kink that was probably at least half the problem ....Then I had a fully working roof-washer sprayer A little re-aiming later and everything is a-ok! It's just nice to have a second opinion before potentially destroying a part that may or may not be function and may or may not be hard to replace.

My actual nozzles looks sorta mangled to me.

Anybody with a working 240z windshield washer sprayer mind taking a picture of the end of the nozzle? Mine seem to have been mangled by the previous owner. My pump was dead when I got the car and I finally replaced it, and I get a steady limp wide stream of water that comes almost to the windshield. All I can find is tips on using wire to de-clog the system, but I'm thinking with how chewed up mine are I think somebody might've reamed out the nozzles too far. Smaller orifice should provide more pressure and therefore distance, right? The closest picture to the business end of a (ostensibly functioning) nozzle is from this ebay listing and it looks pretty flat and even, whereas mine look kind of like somebody chewed on the end of a pencil. How wide is the orifice when viewed dead-on? If it's narrow I'll just mangle them further with some pliers, but I don't really want to do that without a little more info on how they're SUPPOSED to work.