Captain_Zeros

What?

Bleeder valves are easily swapped, just unscrew it all the way and put a new one in, just gotta find one with the right threads (always keep your old brake parts). If you're worried about paint you can remove the master and bleed it in a vice on a workbench. I've never used a hydraulic bleeder before so I can't speak on that, but I've done all the hydraulics on my car the old fashioned way. I always have the best luck when I use clear rubber hose on the bleeder nipples to prevent air from getting sucked back in at any point.

Didn't say you were, just wanted to start at the beginning just in case. Plus if somebody with an issue finds this thread a year from now and that's their problem, that means I did good Anyways, whenever I install a brand new master I make a point of bench bleeding it out of the car first. I plug the outlet port and run a piece of tube from the bleeder screw to the reservoir and pump the everloving crap out of it until fluid runs solid through the clear hose. (this technique can give you small foamy bubbles, but those'll be sorted out when you bleed the system as a whole in the car). The old master is going to be full of fluid already, and you're using that fluid to push the air out of the lines and the slave, but a brand new master is going to be full of air and it can be extremely hard to get all the bubbles out of the master while it's hooked up to the hydraulic lines. It's also entirely possible you got a defective new master cylinder, new in box defective parts do happen.

1.5" strap in a 1.5" opening on my 1973 240z. :cheeky:

Ah, my specialty! Crawling around on my garage floor with a cell phone camera & flashlight! The bracket is basically a simple L shaped piece of metal with a large hole in it welded to the body. The big end of the hose goes through hole and sleeve, with the spring shim to retain it, much like the brackets for the brake flex lines welded to each strut tube. and here's a picture looking straight up at it, note the underside of my battery tray at the top. Edit: My car is a '73 240z, in case of any model year variations.

Dumb question time. You bled the new master cylinder, right? What technique did you use?

I know a self serve garage opened up about a half hour south of Seattle a year back or so. Never checked it out myself but it sounds like exactly the kind of business you're looking for (only about a thousand miles out of your neck of the woods, can't have everything I guess.)

I buy stuff from Rockauto all the time, never been screwed over. Just gotta know what you're shopping for.

my solution

Awesome. I've never bothered to take my drain plugs out due to a healthy sense of "If It Ain't Broke" instilled in me by accidentally breaking things.

parallel thread?

Is it fixable? Maybe. Would I spent a hundred bucks on it? Nope. (edit: but then again, I also live in the land of nearly free 4 speed datsun transmissions)

I bought the DVD at Canby a few years back and it's a solid 4 hours of Scott transferred off VHS. I ripped it to my computer's hard drive so I can skip around more easily. On another note, anybody know the thread pitch of the drain plug offhand? A semi-permanent sightglass doesn't sound too hard to get together with all that's available from places like McMaster, but only if I know what I'm looking for.

This reminds me, anybody hear of or try this method? Technical Information Page ..... Carburation By measuring fuel at the jet nozzle, that should rule out any error produced by carb rotation.

Tip: just because your master cylinder has fluid in it doesn't mean it isn't leaking internally. Fluid can leak around the internal piston seals and cause the system to not work well. If you've got a helper, have them press the clutch while you lay eyeballs on the slave cylinder and clutch fork. Also, mismatched pressure plates & throwout bearing collars can cause all kinds of weird clutch behavior, if the stack is too short then your clutch will never unlock fully, if the stack is too tall then the clutch will be partially unlocked all the time! Anybody who recently replaced their clutch should check out this bit of info: Nissan Throwout Bearing Collar Specs Comparison Measurements Always keep throwout bearing carriers and pressure plates as a matched set, there are a ton of permutations from various years and models of Nissan.

I'm real suspicious based on the doofy looking front end alone. Call it gut feeling? Also I think I might spy some rust under the sill plates... not that that's a deal breaker, but he calls it a "1977 Datsun 280z Rust Free" so I get to be pedantic

Looks like a flat-top to me.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/40086-pic-73-240z-starter.html I don't imagine the 260z starter is too different, but here is how a late 240 starter is wired.

Interesting. Got any pictures? Previous owner installed a set of GM side post battery cables in my car as an extra precaution against welding the battery to the hood, they were convenient enough that I haven't considered changing it.

I've never had a problem with the police, but when my fan clutch seized I had a confused school security guard yell at me a couple times because apparently noise from the engine bay is directly proportional to car velocity. :stupid:

I've not seen reproductions, your best bet would probably be to hunt for a used one. Easy enough in the Northwest US, I wouldn't have the faintest idea of where to start looking in your area. I'm not sure but it might be worthwhile to buy a cheap one from the US and pay an arm and a leg for shipping, just something to look into.

Now now, I can see both sides, but this forum is generally one of the most helpful nicest places I've seen on the internet... and many realworld meatspace groups too. Lets not muck it up by being ****s to each other now. Personally I'd like to see this thread pop up in the near future with a "EUREKA, IT WAS *obvious thing everybody forgot and should've thought of!!"

If it's any consolation, my Z that sat for 10 years or so before I got it did the very same thing after I installed the SU carbs that came in a box in the trunk, fired it up and WOOSH high revs. Sadly I forget what the final 'cause of it ended up being, but never rule out a previous owner monkeying with all the knobs on the carbs for no reason, luckily mine were set pretty close to "functional" and I mostly had to just make sure the floats weren't doing anything silly and the linkages were all in order. The idle screw and balance screw are probably the easiest things to check and could be your culprit, just make sure neither of them are holding the throttle open other than a couple turns of the idle screws so the butterflies don't seal off your intake. Edit: got distracted, my if it's any consolation Z did the same thing and it turned out to be a simple setting fix and then it ran great, so don't freak out. I can't afford a Ztherapy rebuild either, it's all the more incentive to learn as much as I can :stupid: (and try and help out other folks too)

things to check in no particular order: vacuum leaks float level is absolutely critical to making SU carbs work good. make sure your choke linkage isn't sticking open... in fact make sure none of your linkages are sticking. If you take the domes off and remove the pistons you should be able to see the carb jet, if it moves up when you press up here: that means it was sticking in the down (choke on) position and you have things to tweak on in your linkages. throttle linkage balancing screw each carb's idle control screw (look down the throat of the carb, all this does is crack the butterfly open a little at idle, does nothing when pedal is depressed) pictured: Tightening it all the way and then loosening it 2.5 turns or so should get you pretty close to a decent idle in a carb that is functioning right. if there is play in the throttle butterfly shaft you'll have a big vacuum leak no matter what and the carbs are in need of more servicing than I know how to do. Ztherapy can make 'em better than new if you can afford the price. make sure the pistons drop freely, if they're jammed all kinds of kooky stuff can happen. Speaking of Ztherapy, I highly recommend their Just SU's video. It's all killer no filler and probably 75-90% of how I know a dashpot from a grose-jet.

Sounds exactly like when my fuel filter in the electric pump near my tank was clogged.