Isabelle

Thank you Black Gold Man!

The background: My 72 240z 4-speed with a transplanted 2.4 liter from a Z car with an automatic (based on distributor points replacement in a previous adventure). The car has been running rougher and rougher and now will eventually start and idle up to 800 rpm, any attempt to rev the engine (warm or cold) and the engine bucks and air\fuel backfires out the firewall side of the front SU 3 screw carb. It appears to me that the gasket is gone but I can't find the darn part #, can someone lead me into the light or part store or give me a link to order this part? Picture attached. Thank you in advance.

Thanks. Got it running by gapping the points to .018, next step - replace this with a 280z dizzy setup!

It's a 72 240Z with a 4 speed, the engine appears to have come from a 240Z auto with dual points. When I connect to the condenser mounted under the housing the car sputters and dies after a few seconds. If I connect the black wire to the larger condensor closest to the engine block the engine doesn't even sputter (turns over but no fuel ignition). I also had to replace the wire inside the dizzy that is about 2" long, it was totally decays and mostly broken. I used 16 gauge to create a replacement for this piece. Also the back wire if a clip {| something like that, since I don't see where that could connect I made a wire the has a | male end to insert into this, then the other end is horseshoe shape connector that I'm mounting on the yellow block, under the condensor's 90 degree horseshoe bracket. I'll check the FSM again, maybe I'm just looking at it wrong, still a bit of a newbie for the old style ignitions. Also I've set the new points to .014 gap for both sets.

It's a 72 240Z with a 4 speed, the engine appears to have come from a 240Z auto with dual points. When I connect to the condenser mounted under the housing the car sputters and dies after a few seconds. If I connect the black wire to the larger condensor closest to the engine block the engine doesn't even sputter (turns over but no fuel ignition). I also had to replace the wire inside the dizzy that is about 2" long, it was totally decays and mostly broken. I used 16 gauge to create a replacement for this piece. Also the back wire if a clip {| something like that, since I don't see where that could connect I made a wire the has a | male end to insert into this, then the other end is horseshoe shape connector that I'm mounting on the yellow block, under the condensor's 90 degree horseshoe bracket. I'll check the FSM again, maybe I'm just looking at it wrong, still a bit of a newbie for the old style ignitions.

I'm working through this issue as well, which points connection is the retarded and which is advanced? I have the condensor on the side of the dizzy and a smaller condenser on the lower portion of the housing. I've created a Y cable so both of the screw mounts (going into the square yellowed blocks) also connect to the black wire feed off the dizzy - the car starts, stutters at 400 rpm for a few seconds and then dies. The car ran before changing the points and I foolishly didn't document where this black wire connects to. Thanks in advance!

Congrats and best wishes with the Z. I bought my first, a 240Z last April and enjoy bringing my ride into better shape, mine's definitely a diamond in the rust.

Wangan Midnight is a Japanese manga (anime) series featuring the 'Devil Z' that is a Datsun 240z. It was also made into a non-anime movie in 2010 but doesn't appear to be available in the USA yet. The anime episodes are fun to watch too http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wangan_Midnight

Thanks for the post! I was able to get the hood open on my 1972 240z after several fishing attempts and the I used a bent BBQ skewer taped to a long screwdriver to hook it.