phi22b@ck

Ok Guys -- I am going to sell the Z I have been building for the last few years. I have been urged that it would be best for me to get a street cruiser that we (the family) can all enjoy rather than have a car that sits until I get the budget for new tires to take it to the track.... So here is the rundown, I am not ready to sell it yet as I would like to finish the remaining minor details so that I am giving someone a car that is ready to go to tech (or at least as close as I can get it). If someone would like to make me an offer that I cannot refuse, I will of course consider it! (the price will reflect the remaining items) So pictures will be coming as soon as I get into the garage to take some -- it also needs to quit raining around here! Goodies: ( I never ran this car so almost all of this stuff is brand new, or slightly used!) Poly bushings master kit (All the way around) Ball joints tie rods front wheel bearings KYB shortened struts Adjustable coil overs (I have to look up the rates again, I have forgotten but I want to say they were a little on the stiff side for Summit point) these have welded washers so they will pass tech Carrera camber plates on all 4 corners 16 Gallon safequip fuel cell (You can see the install in the forum) custom welded 8 point cage (It needs door bars to pass tech) with center bar that connects the main halo to the knee bar TRD fiberglass racing seat (This is wikkid comfy, I am 5'11 and 190) 2 air dams (one fiberglass, and one urethane) spare brake calipers spare strut tubes spare front and rear control arms spare N42 head, crank and pistons (I think I can get the block back from the machine shop -- long story, but was a complete engine including intake and injectors) spare trans spare r200 (not LSD) spare set of piston rings spare head gasket set spare engine rebuild master gasket set I would imagine that once I get digging around in the garage I will find some more of my spares and then add them to the list.... Please email me, if you would like more info -- or pics. Oh and I can also deliver it within reason! dan@outlandz.com

Looks like your into the real fun part there Rick!!! Sorry I have not been around lately -- I have been busy with my house. Hopefully I will get back on my car this summer so I can attend the requisite schools. What made you go EP vs. GT?

Not too bad of a cost estimate -- I think your doing really well! p

Its about time you started putting your car together Rick!!! Now that mine is on hold, I will have to watch you in order to keep my sanity! p

so close, yet so far away... -p

Sand with 150, hit it with a solid coat of primer, then spray a (cheap *ss) enamel coat on top... But hey, I may be spraying mine every other month... ITS cars like donuts and dents...

Ok -- so the 240's and 260's were all equiped with the R180's (all different gear ratios can be found through the years). The 280Z all had the R200 and subsequently a different bar... Am I right 2many? -p

Use JB weld around the seam.. Then spray it the same as the tube -- that is how we road racers get around it, I mean it IS "technically" illegal to the letters of the rules, but if you use the JB weld it is "permanent"... As 2many mentioned, you have entered the grey area, they dont always work out as you would think. I am still waiting to see if I will get a 1" square tubing framed battery tray through tech -- it is sort of illegal, although the fact that it provides better hold down, it is legal. You should definitely get a rule book, next time your at an SCCA sponsored AutoX you should be able to pick up a GCR -- in the WDCR, they have them at every event (allegedly!). -p

I am probably close to being cybernetic... I am wired at work (I work in IT so computers and networks are what I do) and then I come home to my own wireless cable network... I even have 2 computers dedicated to the one car garage! If I lost my broadband at either place they would institutionalize me!!

If you dont mind putting in a bit of work, you can get the tubes, collars etc from coleman racing products. You will have to get the sleeves machined to fit the strut tube, then you will need to get a perch to weld on. I found that to be the most cost effective way to get a decent coil over set up. Then you just need to pick your springs... Did you cut your struts down or did you use the proper length? You may want to cut them down...

i think I have one from a 280 -- let me know if you want it.

Oh I did mean that the stud sheard off. The rear stud sheared off level with the surface of the head. It popped when the oil pan was gently resting on the rad support -- it was a pretty stressful moment as we slapped some tow straps around just to get it to the ground. That is when I welded the chain to the piece of steel so I could hoist it into the other car.. Good Luck!!

My hook at the rear popped off so I what I did was to take a piece of heavy chain and weld it to a piece of 5/16" steel with a hile drilled in it. You can then bolt it in to the bell housing and use that as the rear hook. I will always lift them that way now. If you dont have access to a welder, you have a couple of choices, you can see your local fab shop and they should be able to whip one up for a couple of bucks, or you can PM me and I can set you up with a rig. d

Seems to me 14.95 a month is about the best your going to get with the requirements. Try www.siteserver.net. I have used them for several years with good uptime stats... dan

When your younger and most likely drive a POS, or at least something a little less than mint... you learn and hone the skills of the road. Eventually you may get a decent job and you move up to the euro-motor car (bimmer, benz, volvo, etc) that you spend a ton of money on. Then you find and develop a relationship and start believing you need "more space" and you get an SUV. After the SUV comes kids, and a single income family -- out goes the gas guzzling SUV and you get a minivan. Meanwhile your driving abilities are declining due to all the added factors in your life --> ---Baseline, 18 year old with a Z car that is being restored *(note the level of care for the car at that point!) | Stage 2, big job that requires 10 hours a day of attn, with a bimmer | Stage 3, SUV, with a steady relationship AND the 10 hour a day job | Stage 4, Minivan -- 10 hour a day job, steady relationship AND kids!! V see the downward trend.... !!!!!!!