xkeithx

i want it to be as accurate as possible though, is there a way to do it if i pulled the valve cover that would be more accurate?

i took my car in to the shop to get it to pass smog, and they said they couldnt do it because they couldnt adjust the timing. supposedly the pulley had "slipped" on the harmonic balancer, so the groove doesnt line up where its supposed to. and they wanted to charge me $220 for a new harmonic balancer!!! ive never even heard of a pulley slipping, but i thought to myself, why cant i just get the engine to TDC, and then just take white out and draw a line where the mark is supposed to be, so i dont have to pay 200 bux for a new pulley?? the only problem is, how can i get the engine to TDC without the timing mark. can anyone provide some insight into this? what do i want my timing to be set at to get the car to pass smog? its a california 78 280z. thnks guys!!

i tried the 14mm and it seemed loose, i felt like i was going to strip the nut. i know there is nothing wrong with my wrench, i just bought a set from craftsman. maybe i should try a 14.5?

none of my wrenches seem to fit the valve adjustment bolts. can anyone tell me what size wrenches i need to go out and buy in order to adjust my valves??? thanks!! also one more thing just to make sure, which way do i turn the small nut on top to loosen it? (that one is the lock nut, correct?)

how large are the file sizes on these cds? if they are not too big or if any of you have high speed internet connections, we should set up a web site where people could just download the factory service manuals. this would make it much easier for people who cant afford near $100 for a book to fix their z cars.

can i swap a newer afm from a 79 or 83 280zx (non turbo) into my 78 280z? or do you guys know of any way to test the afm in my 78 to check if it is working or not? thanks. another note.. has anyone ever tried to rebuild the afm? i am short on money and just need to get my car to pass smog, i was told the afm may be at fault.

well i remember when i got it smogged the guy unplugged the egr valve vacuum hose and tested it, and he said there wasnt any vacuum. and he manually opened the egr valve and it made the engine run really rough, i dont know if that means anything. but what is the thing called that the vacuum line to the egr valve is connected to? its something that screws into the intake manifold, he said that could be faulty but i dont remember what its called.

please excuse me if this information is somehwere else on the board, becuse ive been looking for the past few weeks and cant seem to come up with any solutions. i have a 1978 280z thats fuel injected, its a 5 speed, and it will not pass smog. i just took it in today and the HC i ibelieve it was was around 600-800. and i think it needs to be somewhere around 100 or less, im really not sure. im not a smog expert. but he said that number is way high, and whats happening is the gas isnt getting burned for some reason, and its just going out into the emissions. what can i do to get this number down, or are there any tricks like things i can unplug to make the car just get past smog? ive been driving the car with my temporary registration for the past month, and put about 2000 miles on it, and noticed that i get about 20 miles to the gallon. i used a can of stp fuel injector cleaner in the second tank of gas, and i put some fuel system cleaner in it recently. is there a can of anything tht i can buy that i can put in the tank that might help me pass smog?? one thing the smog guy mentioned was the pcv valve, he said when you rev the engine the valve is supposed to close, but for some reason it doesnt move. you can put your finger under it and move it manually, but for some reason the vacuum lines arent working i guess. he also said there could be a problem with the AFM, but is there nything else i could just fix or do to the car to get it to pass? i dont wnat to have to take it in somewhre and spend an arm and a leg to get my car to pass smog. i live in san francisco, CA. if anyone lives around this area and knows a good mechanic i could take it to, or some sort of datsun experts that live around here, that would me much appreciated. thanks so much!!

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this may be a little bit off the topic, but what are you guys's thoughts on those magnetic "fuel savers" that attach to your fuel line? http://www.moremilespergallon.biz/ i keep getting these junk mails in my email and was just thinking if maybe anyone's tried it or if it works.

this maay be a stupid question but.. do i really have to put 91 octane in my car? gas is sooo expensive and my car is just stock, its a 78 280z. does the octane depend on what the engine compression is? what is the difference between 87 and 91? does it really make that big of a difference? i read somewhere that gas stations only have 2 tanks, one for 87 and one for 89.. and 91 is a mix between the two. is that true? thaanks for the info guys.

yah sorry its a 280z so i do have a cat. whats the resonator??

well ive been driving my datsun a lot lately, i took it on a few 100 mile trips, and well every time i get off the freeway and come to a red light i hear this knocking noise it sounds like coming from somewhere underneath the car. when i rev the engine the knocking goes faster and at higher revs it seems to go away. it only does this when im sitting , not moving, just idling at a red light, and after ive been driving at high speeds on the freeway. is this my exhaust? it seems like its coming from the cat. but im not sure. is it normal? do i need to get new exhaust equipment asap? i just want to make sure im not doing any major damage to my car. thanks guys

actually i think it is the non-turbo version. what would a rebuild cost? or could i do it myself, and what exactly does it entail? i dont think the engine is in realaly that bad of shape, does it still need to be rebuilt? thanks