Everything posted by xkeithx
-
f54 block with p90 head
complete block and head for sale, no injectors. id like to get $300 for it. the car that it comes from was owned by a mechanic and is in really good shape. its currently in the car and i will need help removing it from the car. i dont have an engine hoist so bring one if you have one. i live in pleasant hill, ca.
-
selling my parts car..
its a 76 i believe.. nt sure of the mileage, over 100k tho i assume. i dont know what else would be wrong with it, theres no injectors, the brake vaccuum unit is broken so the brakes dont work.. theres no body damage or anything, i have the drivers door, its just not on. the interior is a little roughed up, but other than that its in pretty good shape. im located in pleasant hill, ca
-
selling my parts car..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2403660558&category=6783 its got a great engine, but the trans slips and theres some various parts missing. it would be good for the engine, or if you want to restore it, there is no rust on the body.
- dscn6841
- dscn6840
- dscn6839
- dscn6838
-
5 speed transmissions
ive got a few trannys up for auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33733&item=1873176629&rd=1 and http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33733&item=1873176338&rd=1 look at my other auctions, im selling some other z stuff.. i have an engine head and other stuff
- dscn6799
- dscn6798
- dscn6797
- dscn6796
- dscn6795
- dscn6794
-
complete 280z engine w/ head
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1870980840
-
very odd problem
well today i put all the plugs back in and hooked up the fuel injectors, but i left the cold start injector unplugged. it didnt do anything. i think it ran smooth for like 2 seconds and then started running rough, i turned it off, plugged the cold start injector back in and started it and it just ran rough again. then as it was running i unplugged the cold start injector, and i unplugged the fuel injectors one at a time and even that didn't do anything to change the idle of the engine. the smoke actually does have a blu-ish tint to it, but its mostly gray. its not dark smoke, its pretty light, so its hard to tell. i dont know if its gas or water or fuel or what. even when i give the engine gas, and get it up to a higher RPM, the engine still runs rough and feels like its going to die. how would i be able to test if it is the temp sensor? where is the temp sensor located? i dont know if this is related at all.. but my engine temperature/oil pressure gauge seems to be broken. when i turn on the car, the needles move very slightly.. so i know the gauge is not disconnected, but when the car starts, neither of the needles move. maybe this would be an indication of a broken temp sensor? i really dont know. what do you guys think?
-
very odd problem
it doesnt sound like a blown head gasket, does it? i was worried about that, and i think my compression tester is broken.
-
very odd problem
yes, my plugs are wet with gas. they are also completely black, it looks like dry ash or something, are the plugs supposed to turn black?
-
very odd problem
no , its weird, like.. right now its all cold outside, and it hasnt been started since the day before yesterday. but if i started it now, it would run rough right away. its hard to get it to run smoothly..and it only lasts a little while, then every time after when i start it, it will run rough.
-
very odd problem
ive replaced the fuel filter, where is the pcv valve located?
-
very odd problem
oh crappy. its a 78 280z, fuel injected
-
very odd problem
ok well when i first got the car, i started the engine and it ran nice and smooth. i drove it home (about 30 miles or so) with no problems at all. then its just been sitting at my house, i didnt drive it, because i needed to get money for insurance so i could register it. but i was taking the car for drives around the block just to keep everything good i guess. then one day i was at a stop sign and it stalled. i started it and the engine ran really rough. i barely got it home, and took out the spark plugs and replaced them with new ones. i also replaced the cap and rotor. then i started the engine and it was running perfectly smooth again. i drove it around the block, and cam eto a stop sign, and the same thing happened. we limped home, which was right around the corner (i was only taking the car for short drives around the block because its not legal to drive) and tried starting it again. the engine was running rough, sounded like only a few of the cylinders were working. and there was a ton of smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. well yesterday, i went and got a new set of wires. i put them on, and the engine ran nice and smooth.. and there was no mysterious smoke coming out of the exhaust. (it wasnt blue smoke, just gray smoke, i guess burning oil? i dont know). so then today i went to warm up the engine because i wanted to do a compression test. i started the engine , and it was running smooth just like it was last night. but then i was just letting it sit there and idle, and after about 2 or 3 minutes the engine started running rough again, sounded like it was missing, and the idle speed dropped to like 350 rpm or something. i had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the engine from dying, which it eventually did anyways. giving it more gas didnt really do much. so my question is this: why would the engine run smooth for a little while, and then run rough? and why would it only temporarily improve every time i replaced a part of the ignition? anyone else experience this problem? p.s. i attempted a compression test, and cylinder #1 held air and the other ones all came up 0. then i re-tested #1 and it came up 0 also. so maybe the gauge is broken, i dont know what happened. i'll have to redo the compression test and let you guys know.
-
oily spark plugs
yeah actually now that i think about it, i think they were just fouled by a rich mixture of fuel. i got the ngk's, put them in, and the engine was still having that weird problem where it would miss. i replaced the cap and rotor, and then it started up very nicely. so i guess it was just the cap and rotor contacts that were bad. i still havent replaced the oil, i havent really had time to drive the car, or do any work on it. i just need to get it registered and replace the bald tires before i really drive it. but since its just sitting, should i wait till everythings ready to go before i change the oil, or does it matter? and when i do change it, should i run the engine first to warm it up, or just drain it cold? i want to get as much sludge as possible out of the engine so it will be nice and clean.
-
intermittently wont start.. bad starter?
well i got it figured out.. i took apart the starter and cleaned everything, put it back, still wouldnt start.. then i looked behind the key switch and just touched a screwdriver to the black/yellow and white/red wires and it started right up. so i guess its my switch. i took the switch out and tested it with an ohmmeter, and i guess when i turn the switch from start to on the switch doesnt go over far enough to engage the switch. i dont really feel like spending 30 bucks for a new switch so i just kinda hold the key at the on position and shake it a little and i can get it to start. anyone else do this? maybe i could spray some sorta cleaner stuff inside the switch to clean the contacts so i dont have to shake it? i dont know. would brake parts cleaner be a good thing to use for cleaning contacts? thats what i used to get all the dust out of my starter motor, it seemed to work good.
-
ignition switch wiring
can anyone tell me what wire goes to which spade terminal on the back of the ignition key? there are 5 terminals and only 4 wires. does anyone know what the extra terminal (labeled "R") is used for? thanks.