jkeese01

I did the same exact thing on my 1977 280z. Thanks for the video.

Late reply but maybe others can use the information. Take out you tachometer and speedometer. Clamp pliers on the metal rod going into the rheostat. Lightly clamp another plier on the dash cap and slowly turn a little back and forth (while holding the first set of pliers firmly), until you break the glue bond. Apparently Datsun glued the dash cap on. Now you have to remove 3 more screws for things mounted behind the rheostat, push the brackets back, and then you can barely get the rheostat out. Good luck.

On the profile page in MSA, where you enter shipping address, etc., there is a field "Customer Number" which is permanently kept. I've added my membership number there in the format: CZCC- #, and will add it to the Notes on the order. Someone else said you don't see the discount immediately on the invoice, but it shows up on your credit card. I'll see soon if it still works.

Thanks Arne for my membership number. About to order some expensive parts and this will cover the shipping. And great job Mike for the quick change to the site to supply everyone the number. Jim

The membership number is no longer in the URL. Where can we find it now? Thanks, Jim

Hi jcb, Go ahead. I'm looking at some new louvers online now and was hoping to find someone with better pictures than what is posted by the online stores. For used, I'm looking in the Tampa area so I can avoid paying more for shipping than the cost of the louvers. Thanks.

Drove the Z today for the first time after adding the 5k pot. Car seems to run smoother when set at 1k. This mod is simple to build and definitely worth adding.

I've found a few vendors, but their pictures don't show the louvers very well. Travel'n Man's pics show all angles. Wish the vendors had similar pictures.

Beautiful car. Ebay find. Were they new? I'll have to keep watching Ebay.

I've been wanting to buy a set of louvers for my 280z for a long time. Can you post pictures and where you purchased your louvers? Thanks.

Great job with the Clifford alarm enclosure. I modified a 5k pot using the instructions from Atlantic-Z write up and calibrated it with a multimeter. The idle sounds better with it set to 1k. Raining here today, so didn't take it out for a drive. Did you guys adjust the pot based on the sound of the exhaust?

Thanks for the info. and link. Have you or anyone here installed the 1k pot to fine tune the Temp Sensor? Someone seems to have already added a resistor inline on the Temp Sensor. Adding a 1k pot to make this adjustable looks pretty easy and would be interesting to see how well it works.

At idle, the exhaust makes a puffing sound. I'm probably being too critical on this. Car cranks right up and seems to have good power. Never driven any other 280z, so don't have anything to compare what "normal" is.

The Electronic Fuel Injection Book says "The pressure regulator thus maintains a constant balance between fuel and manifold pressure keeping the difference between them at 36 psi." So if you remove the vacuum, it should show 36 psi, difference with no vacuum is + 36 psi. With my vacuum of 19, I'd think the pressure would be 55 - 19 = effective pressure of 36 psi.

New on fuel system: - Fuel Hoses - Vapor Hoses - Pressure Regulator - Fuel Pump - Clean tank - Rebuilt injectors Vacuum is 19. When driving the car, the fuel pressure will increase to 36 psi at full throttle. It is 28 psi when idling and sounds like it's running lean. Pinching the return fuel hose to the tank increases the fuel pressure to 52 psi. Removing the vacuum hose to the Pressure Regulator ups the pressure to 36 psi. Also ran the car out of a gallon gas tank and still 28 psi idle. Factory Service Manual says it should be 36 psi. Any ideas on getting it to 36 psi? Thanks.

Don't forget this quote from Energy Secretary Steven Chu: “Somehow we have to figure out how to boost the price of gasoline to the levels in Europe.” Many have the philosophy that higher gas prices will lower consumption and greenhouse gases. I hope you are right. After replacing 3 fuel injectors in my 1993 300zx, started using only non-ethanol gasoline $$$ in the 300zx. Haven't replace an injector since. Some say the ethanol effects the injector, others say it's the fuel hoses. The 280z now has all new ethanol resistant fuel hoses, so going to burn the E10 and see what happens.

Hi Chuck, Another post I read said that turning the tip toward the ground will also reduce the smell of exhaust in the cabin when driving with the windows down. Cool that it also makes the car a little quieter. Thanks, Jim

Hi sblake01, Not doing this for his benefit, but for others like me. I have the same question. Wade, trying to keep the car pretty much original. Not looking to increase performance, just reliability. Just replace all fuel hoses with Gates Barricade hoses (rated for blended fuels). Read that E10 gas is breaking down the rubber in regular fuel hoses, causes all kinds of issues in older cars. Recently read that the gov is increasing gasoline to E15. How is E15 going to effect the fuel pump/injectors and performance? But that should be another post topic. Thanks.

Better late than never. On my '77 280z, the original (muffler only) dimension is: 5.5" X 10 " X 15". Under the center of the car is a small second muffler (non-California car). I think this is a catalytic converter on the California model. I'm also looking at replacing the exhaust system, keeping with the original noise specs.

Tested the resistance across the two terminals below the coil per FSM page EE-30, good range is 1.6 - 2.0 ohm, tested at 2.0 ohms. Then tested the continuity from wires disconnected from the Ignition Unit ("R" and "G" colored wires), tested at 750 ohms, FSM says around 720 ohms is good. Some of the other test require an oscilloscope. I'm going to assume the coil is good. Was hoping the coil would fail the test and be the cause of the car run rough when the engine warms up. More testing. Thanks.

(Typo above: should be coil, not alternator) Thanks for the diagram. Print as poster form over 14 pages it's very easy to trace. I was trying to use the one on the FSM pdf, a very low quality copy. Checked the unplugged wire with a multi-meter and it goes to ground (coil condenser). Coil Condenser wire plugged in - Pin 1 drops to 3.6v, car cranks and idles but chokes if you press on the gas. Coil Condenser wire unplugged - test normal at battery voltage, car cranks and revs. but ... Drove the car last night for the first time in 3 weeks (about the time I plugged in the condenser wire). The car ran a little rough, but did run. Three weeks ago it was running perfect. After driving about 2 miles, the car started choking again, but could still be driven. <b>Could having the coil condenser (which is broken and measures ground) plugged in damaged the coil? </b> Thanks.

Thanks for the diagram. Print as poster form over 14 pages it's very easy to trace. I was trying to use the one on the FSM pdf, a very low quality copy. Checked the unplugged wire with a multi-meter and it goes to ground (alternator condenser). Alternator Condenser wire plugged in - Pin 1 drops to 3.6v, car cranks and idles but chokes if you press on the gas. Alternator Condenser wire unplugged - test normal at battery voltage, car cranks and revs. but ... Drove the car last night for the first time in 3 weeks (about the time I plugged in the condenser wire). The car ran a little rough, but did run. Three weeks ago it was running perfect. After driving about 2 miles, the car started choking again, but could still be driven. <b> Could having the alternator condenser plugged in damaged the coil? </b> Thanks.

I noticed the center bottom wire (top wire in this picture) disconnected on my Z and plugged it in. This is when all the trouble started. Just unplugged it, now the voltage on pin 1 is the battery voltage and the Z runs normal. Does anyone know what the bottom (top wire in this picture) center wire is for? Thanks.

My car cranks but chokes out if you press on the gas. It will only rev if you very slowly increase the acceration. Performed several successful test from the Electronic Fuel Injection manual. When I tested the voltage on pin 1 from the harness, Test #2 - (1) Ignition Coil Trigger Input Circuit, it was supposed to read battery voltage, but read only 3.6 volts. Anyone run into this problem? I'm only finding people that performed this test successfully with a reading of 12v. Thanks.

Pulling the plug around to I could take the picture made it look more twisted. Pipe cleaner is a good idea on these connectors. How do you clean the flat ones that are on plugs (female side) like the water temp sensor, etc.?