jkeese01

This is a picture of the electrical connection to clean for the left hazard light. Passenger side, behind radio. There are 2 black plugs. Easiest way to identify the right one is to unplug it and see if the hazard light stops.

I've change all the gas hoses on the 280z periodically. Back in the 1980s, seem like the gas hoses would spring leaks if you didn't. Gas lines on my lawn mower melted with the ethanol fuel in less than a year and Lowes swapped the mower for a new one. Also outboard boat motor issues a few years back. Ethanol has caused so many issues and now I'm hearing they want to increase it to 15%,

Ethanol fuel ever give any problems? In my 300zx, had problems with the fuel injectors until I started using non-ethanol fuel.

Thanks ZCurves. Probably don't need anything then. When the car was rarely driven last year, added Sea Foam to the fuel. Now driving it daily, so was thinking about adding Textron.

Is the Textron injector cleaner safe and effective at cleaning the fuel injectors? Thanks.

The '77 280z has the fuel pump shutoff switch in the air flow meter AFM that shuts off the pump if airflow drops below a certain rate.

Thought mine might be a fluke lasting this long. Amazing this hose has not totally disintegrated.

Found some silicon hoses online that would fit here. Anyone ever use silicon hoses? They are expensive ($20 including ship for elbow), but this hose is not the easiest to replace, and silicon is supposed to last forever.

Thanks, great idea. The two hoses down there are original. I've changed all the other fuel and water hoses over the years. They aren't leaking, but planning a long road trip and looking for potential problem spots that could be a pain on the road.

Does anyone know where to buy the short 90 degree elbow fuel hose found on the 1977 280z? Thanks.

Has anyone found something that will permanently stick to these center cap to blacken the background around the "Z"?

These are parts for rebuilding the door hinge. This Pin will not work with the roller. Try to reuse the Roller Pin that is on the car. Nissan Pin Bushings part# 80410-01G00 Nissan Pins part# 80406-V5002 Or Advanced Auto, the bushing and pin is Dorman part # 38397 www.mcmaster.com Part# 8491A202 - the roller Image of Roller Pin and Stop Arm Pin:

Have you check the 1978 280z Datsun Factory Service Manual for instructions on diagnosing problems with the fuel system? If you don't have one of these printed books, free .pdf format ones are easily found online with a google search.

The hinge and arm are in great shape, only the roller has a hole in it. Was wondering how much force ph240 used to punching out the Nissan hinge pin. I'm hoping that a light tap from the bottom will punch it out.

At Advanced Auto, the bushing and pin is Dorman part # 38397.

Let us know how the ride is when you upgrade to 16" rims. I've already replaced blown struts. The next step is 16" rims and poly suspension. Thanks.

Perfect! I wonder if the roller could be replaced without removing the hinge from the car? Nissan Pin Bushings part# 80410-01G00 Nissan Pins part# 80406-V5002 www.mcmaster.com Part# 8491A202 - the roller Thanks, Jim

From your explanation, those unhappy with their poly bushings should first look at the springs/struts. I have KYB AGX Adjustable struts on the 300zx. The ride goes from standard feel to pretty harsh adjusting the firmness setting. I see your point here. So rubber bushings would probably suppress vibration issues with the car itself. Road vibration tuning is the responsibility of the struts.

I'm assuming Hunter260z was talking about the direction of the load. On rough pavement, wouldn't the rubber suppress more of the vibrations, and on curvy roads the poly would sharpen the handling? But I'm not an engineer or mechanic. Plan to upgrade to poly on the 280z and looking at different options. Some people say the poly is too harsh and others love it.

My '93 300zx I think of as more of a luxury sports car and the 280z more of a real sports car. Planning to do the poly upgrade on the 280z. Did OEM rubber on the 300zx. What does everyone think about doing vertical suspension parts with OEM rubber and horizontal suspension parts with poly for the first generation Z? Seems to make a lot of sense.

I went with OEM rubber suspension on my 1993 300zx. Only problem is that Nissan does not offer the rubber, only the complete part. So was kind of expensive. Bought most of my parts from Courtesyparts.com. This is a link to their 1st gen z suspension. It's best to give them a call because not all parts are listed on the web site. http://www.courtesyparts.com/240z-260z-280z-parts-s30-1970-1978/suspension/-c-7724_7762.html

Remember the exploding Ford Pinto? I was told the rubber flap, backed by a sheet metal bracket was Nissan's solution to keep the gas tank from rupturing on rear end collision.

Hi TomoHawk, Just re-read your posting and it gave me an idea. Can you give me more details about the bronze flange. Where you found it, etc.? You think I could slide it over my roller, tap it down with a hammer for a tight fit? That sure would be an easy fix until I get another hinge. Thanks, Jim

First mine was running too rich. Tested the temp sensor with a multi-meter and it read infinity, which indicated it was broke and flooded the engine with fuel. Replaced the temp sensor and could get the car started. The car ran very rough, smoked, but could keep running when I rev the engine. (Sea Foam was in gasoline so that may have caused the smoke) Next the car was running too lean. Tightened the hose clamps on the Air Flow Meter and inspected the hoses for cracks. Replaced all the vacuum hoses on the engine. Also thought it was a good time to inspect all the electrical connections for corrosion. Cleaned the connections with a small file. Cranked the car, it smoked, ran rough for a minute or so, then started running great. Later that day, the fuel pressure gauge I connected to the fuel line showed the fuel was not holding pressure when the engine is off. The car should crank immediately, but was taking about 5 seconds. Found that the check value on the fuel pump was leaking fuel back into the gas tank. Added a new check value and the car cranks up immediately and runs very smooth. Fuel pressure held for a week (weekend to weekend), so great that my fuel injectors are not leaking. If you replace vacuum hoses, do them one at a time to make sure they get connect back correctly. Cost less than $20.

All those hoses look pretty old. I'd replace them one at a time to make sure you get the connected back correctly. Recently replaced all of mine for less than $20.