jkeese01

Have you connected a fuel pressure gauge to see if the fuel pressure is consistent? Also important to check all the electrical connections for the "green" corrosion every so often.

With it running rich, can you rev up the engine to say 5000 RPM and keep it running?

For speedometer, these sizes are pretty equivalent: Original Tires: 195/70 R14 55 mph ---- 15 different tires of this size available at tirerack.com 205/60 R15 55.14 = 55 ---- 48 205/55 R16 54.71 = 55 ---- 163 205/50 R17 55.29 = 55 ---- 85 Hi Arne, I'm leaning toward the 16" wheels because there are over 3 times as many tires offered in that size when compared to 15". Is there really a noticeable difference between a "60 R15" and "55 R16"? The Z's really look good with 225, but the guys I've talked to running 225 had a little rubbing and steering was more difficult at very low speeds. Thanks, Jim P.S. What are you running on your car?

For speedometer, these sizes are pretty equivalent: Original Tires: 195/70 R14 55 mph ---- 15 different tires of this size available at tirerack.com 205/60 R15 55.14 = 55 ---- 48 205/55 R16 54.71 = 55 ---- 163 205/50 R17 55.29 = 55 ---- 85 For selection, looks like the 16" is a good choice. Price increases with tire size.

If I do have a custom one made, I'll see if the machine shop will give me a quantity discount and make the extra rollers available to the forum.

Same here Captain, this problem started in 1983. Should have done something then when the parts were still at the dealership. So now just keeping my eyes open to see if I can find one.

Thanks Captain. I've even tried very thick grease on the spring, hoping that would reduce the pop. That made no difference. Someone else gave these three alternatives: 1. Find a replacement. 2. Weld the roller in place with the worn side facing the back. 3. Have a new roller made. You haven't tried using your roller as a template yet? Jim

Thanks Andrew. The roller rolls. I can spin the roller around 180 degrees and the door does not pop for one opening. Then the flat spot rolls back to the front and the pop is back. I've been looking for awhile and haven't found one. I bet the roller seized, wore the spot, started popping, then I lubed it up good (1983ish) but was too late. Since then, keep both doors lubed well, so never had an issue with passenger side door. I'd really appreciate any help finding one. Will the roller assembly be a roller on top of a pin that goes in the hole on the door hinge connected to the body or will it be the whole lower hinge? Jim

Very nice! Great to hear the threading on the Volvo check valve matches the threading on the Datsun fuel pump.

If it was my injectors, next step was to buy the FUEL INJECTOR INJECTION CLEANER CLEANING KIT or something similar I found on ebay. Saw one somewhere that was around $100. The one I see tonight there is $209.99. How did you connect the volvo one? The sam_the_diesel_man on ebay.com one looked easier to connect, just cut the gas line and push both tapered ends onto the fuel hose.

Bought one of the "5/16" Check Valve Diesel or Gas 8mm One Way Fuel Flow" from sam_the_diesel_man on ebay.com. Installed the check valve between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. So far the fuel pressure is holding and the car cranks right up. The air in the fuel line between the check valve and the fuel pump seems to have no effect after the engine is cranked. Thanks.

I'm still running the 195/70R14 on my '77 280z. 1. For daily driving, would a R15 or R16 have better or worse preformance/comfort/ease of steering? 2. Would upgrading to larger tires have a cost or tire selection advantage over the R14? Thanks.

This has been an issue for years. The drivers side door makes a loud pop when opened. The detent roller has a indention carved into it on one side from wear. I can rotate the roller so the indention is on the backside. This works for one time, then the indented side moves back to the front, and the door starts making the loud pop again when opened. This article has some great information: Rebuilding Door Hinges on 1st Generation Z Car http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm but the author found "some lower hinges that had the return springs and roller stops in place". He rebuilt the hinges using new bushings and pins and seemed to use existing detent roller. Has anyone fixed their worn detent roller? Thanks, Jim

I need to install a check valve on my '77 280z. How is the one from "sam the diesel man" working out? Thanks.