rcb280z

grannyknot Yeah I was afraid I would have to remove everything from the interior, stuff in direct contact with the floor. madkaw The bottom of the rail's do have rust but it's only on the bottom, where the holes are. And no previous repair has been done. I don't trust myself to weld in that area. Afraid I will catch something on fire. gwri8 Im glad I wasn't too far off with the repair thought. I will more than likely find someone to fix it for me unless it's something I can't afford. So, any ideas what I could spend having it done? I will post a couple more pics as soon as I can get her in the air and take some. Thanks guys

I figured you would say that. I remember when I had mine done 20 yrs ago it was deep looking. I loved it.

They've been like this for quite some time now. I just look away when I go under to change the oil. Of course the right thing would be to replace them correct? Do you think they are beyond repair or the consideration of repair? Both sides pretty much look this way. Some of you are probably shaking your head right now. Saying "repair?!" I know some of you have replaced them but I see nothing on how pricey it was. Taking suggestions here. I'm assuming it's a lot of work--remove carpet on the inside so they don't catch on fire, etc, etc. And if better pics are needed I can get her up in the air to take some.

That is correct. Can you make a single stage look as good as a base/clear?

The best thing would be to find someone willing to give you a printout of the numbers without running an emissions test. This way you wont be put on whats called a "gross-polluter" list. You don't want that to happen. My mechanic just plugs mine in and has to make a slight adjustment. I usually have it pretty close. You do not have a CA car I know but I'm not sure if thats better or worse. The cat will clean up the exhaust to a certain point. But if you go in with "fat rich" condition you'll fail anyway. Get a print out and lets see the numbers. Not saying you are going to fail but lets look at things first.

Refresh-toration. I like it, clever. You car looks really straight, body lines and all. Gaps and all look good.

You are oh so correct CO. Too bad you are so far away or I'd buy you a beer too. I plan on, one of the many plans, installing the stock hood on my Z sometime this year. Can't wait. Want it to look like a 77 again. Kevin, if you need help with pre emissions testing let me know. I can find out from a mechanic friend of mine what your "passing" numbers would be if you need. I can usually dial mine in enough to pass.

Great info Mike! Thanks. I was ready to order the TTT ones but I'll check to see if the other guys have them.

Outstanding! Welcome to the club. You are 5 hours away from me. If you are ever down this way stop on by and i'll buy you a beer.

My frame rails are rusted and have holes in them. Going to start a thread on it soon to get some advice from this forum. You can't help but enjoy conversing with other members on this forum. It has taught me many things and I have to say it helps keep my moral up when it comes to repairs and what not. Just saying that if you decide to keep it and stay with this club you will have fun.

Mine is a 77 and I love it. Every now and then I have do a minor repair, etc. but for the most part its trouble free.

Looks like its running good as far as the video shows.

That is steam you are seeing. Especially if you just started the car. It will dissipate.

When they were available I never paid that much. Its been a number of years but I know I didn't pay that much for them. Like TTT's site says "For inner tie rods, these are pricey, we know, but there is only one option on the market". That is why they are so expensive.

Looks like its resting on the front carb doesn't it? Never mind, looked at the original pic. just a bad angle

I just noticed this, the coil seems to be in an odd position.

Wow, $$$!

Wow, you guys are making me want to refurbish my rack.

Are those new inner tie rods or just the old ones cleaned up? Look new to me.

This is what I was thinking earlier. I need to look at a few things. Just feel if it was working before and not now I need to fix it.

I remember now. When the aftermarket check valve failed I figured it was due to the return line pressure getting too high. Looks like all these aftermarket check valves are low pressure ones.

Thats weird, I searched for that exact thread and got nothing. Thanks Cliff.

I did actually try one similar to it and it didn't hold the pressure. But I never found out if "it" was the cause of the bleed off. I clamped the return line and the pressure bled off. I pulled the fuel rail and pressurized it to watch for dripping injectors and saw none. Same thing with cold start injector. IIRC Fastwomen had a thread out on it several years back. I can't find it though. I may just start over and run all the tests again. It baffled me when clamping the return line and CSV line that the pressure bled off.

That sounds like a plan.

Looks really good. I like that color combo. Do you have the part numbers for the bushings you used?