rcb280z

Great advise madkaw. I think the bolts above the cross member are going to be the issue. Nothing serious, just looks like they will be hard to get to.

I've read a couple "tips" threads on it but nothing with a step-by-step how to. Not saying there isn't such a thing just that I haven't found one. Doesn't seem as if it would be difficult just time consuming. I'll post my procedure when done.

Just recently helped a neighbor load his daughters suv on a dual axle trailer and was told to center the vehicle on the trailer axles. He said it was "safer" this way. Interesting. Made it to the shop with no issues but then again it was a short trip. So forget what I said in post 6, feel stupid now.

Me like! Thanks for posting the pic Jim.

I was thinking of painting the pan the same color as the block just for that reason, to see oil leaks. But I'm not sure it'll look that good the same color. Yep, I have the bench vise and inch torque wrench. I better check with MSA on how tight on the bolts for the comp gasket, not sure but probably the same as the Nissan one. Light breakfast, then beer when done.

Pic #6 looks pretty good. Car is centered over both axles, which is what you want.

Well it looks like I'll be pulling the pan next week. I have a pretty good leak that I made worse by tightening down on the pans bolts. Hopefully I didn't go to far as to "dimple" around the bolt holes. I plan to jack all four corners as high as I can get them off the garage floor, so I can fit my beer belly under there . Drain oil, of course, letting it drain overnight. I read somewhere to set timing about 90 degrees before or after TDC. It's supposed to set the front crank counter weights up in the block allowing the pan to drop easier. We'll see. I ordered the competition gasket from MSA. They said I can put it on dry, no sealant. Anyone else use this style gasket? It's made of the same stuff as the competition valve cover gasket. There's a couple other things I believe I have to do to get this pan free. Remove the U clamp from the steering rack, and a couple bolts on the flywheel cover. I can't think of anything else right now. Oh, I'll be checking the mounting surface for any imperfections. It's probably going to take a whole day just to clean all the gunk this leak has created over the past couple of years. It's a disgrace really. Guess I should get some gloss black for the pan, make it look good again. Anyone have any advise or suggestions, I'm all ears.

I'm going to follow this thread Tom. I never got around to doing anything and then just forgot about it. But, am curious what you come up with.

Ha! That's what I thought.

That's good info, thanks. I'll look into that.

Here's the other thing, my cold start wont work unless the temp is 67 or colder in the garage, which it is now. I'm about 2 miles from the beach but it gets cool during the winter months here. Not cold just cool. During warmer months my Z is hard to start if it sits overnight. Have to crank it over 3 times before it finally catches. Almost like a finicky carburetor choke.

Agreed, I don't believe it is, just annoying. I just want to know why. That's why I haven't spent too much time yet, "not really an issue".

I'm guilty of the same. Dave, I am having the same "bleed down" with my fuel rail pressure. Takes between 4-5 hrs to completely bleed down. I tried to diagnose with no luck. I would clamp off lines and still get the pressure lose. I haven't given up yet just postponed for now. I have a starting problem because of it when the car sits over night and its not cold enough the next morning for the cold start to work. But when it is cold enough she starts up nicely. Mine has been like this for a couple years now. I have been running an aftermarket fuel pump for over 10 years now. May or may not have anything to do with it. I just want to know why its not holding pressure any longer than it is. I have a used OE pump with a NEW check valve that are possibly none existent anymore. Figured I would install that next to see what happens.

I have been ordering from them off and on since 1989, I believe, and have never had an issue. Don't know what I would have done without them on a couple of occasions. Great place!

Great pics man! I like the rear deck spoiler. Where did you get it from?

Happy Thanksgiving to all! Jai, RedBird is looking good!

It's getting harder and harder to find anyone with experience on the engines anymore.

It's a N47. Looks like it anyway. The N47 has the "sleeves" in the exhaust ports.

You might want to google them "California Datsun" and read what people say. Used to be called Datsun parts LLC.

Sure is nice looking. That is exactly how mine looked before I was talked into, sort of, changing the look of mine to what you see now. Don't get me wrong, I like my Z but can't wait to get the original hood back on her.

That is a good price actually for the ecu from MSA if you end up going that direction. I seem to always forget about the core charge. Hopefully you find its a simple repair and don't have to buy a ecu. I on the other hand am ignorant when it comes to electronics. But it does sound kinda exciting to open one up just to look inside, hmm.... Looking forward to see what you find. Good luck.

I would put an add in the classified section of this forum, never know what you might find. I had one that got another member out of a jamb. You might be as lucky. I like MSA but sometimes their prices are.......

I agree 100% Jim. It's maddening!

Yeah, definitely going to check those every time I do the oil change.

Wow, I remember that commercial. Wanted the car and girl.