rcb280z

I had one of those once and couldn't understand why they didn't picture the 77 model.

That's why I asked about water in the tank earlier. But Jai did say that the "smoke" lingered for awhile. Another question, if its oil burning why doesn't it happen all the time? Jai, at what level do you keep your fuel tank, or should I ask, how empty do you let it get and for how long?

So maybe you mean "401249"?

Except its not silver. I believe 305 lt. blue.

Yes, please get a video. I don't think its coolant. If its lingering for a bit its more then likely oil.

So do you only notice the white smoke when RB is cold? Describe what you see. Large amounts of white smoke that lingers or small amounts that dissipate fairly quickly?

Are those the same plugs from "before" the new AFM? If so maybe cleaning them and putting them back in for a few miles, 100 or so, and then read them again. Could there be water in the tank? I don't understand the temporary white smoke.

Wow, nice looking 77. I have a 77 and wish it was original. That was my stock color as well until it got repainted. Can't wait to see more pics. What's your manufacture date? Mine is 5/77 and vin hls30401587. If I ever want to take mine back to original it's guys like you that could make it easier with having an all original one. Makes for great reference. I used to hate those bumpers, aka park benches, but on your Z they look good. Think it has to do with the color and stance which looks good on yours BTW.

Haha, I think it was mine.

So yesterday I took my wife's car to America's Tire (Discount tire) to have her tires rotated. Free because I bought the tires there. I happened to look up and couldn't believe what I was seeing. An advertisement with a Z in it! A ZX but still a Z, no offense to the ZX owners of course. So I had to share it with everyone.

Wish I owned one. I'd have fun

Yep, thats right. The best way is on a dyno with a "sniffer" hooked up to it IMHO. You can see what condition your motor and fuel system are in. I had my 77 done this way after installing a rebuilt MSA afm. BTW,they truly are rebuilt on original cores. I was surprised. But it needed a slight tweak which it got on the dyno. She's running good and burning clean.

You would be surprised just how much the idle adjustment screw changes how it runs "at idle". A friend of mine "smog tech" adjusted mine on his dyno and I was amazed at just how much he was able to adjust the idle mixture with the idle screw. Like Chas said "you wont see any results from the idle adjustment screw above idle".

That was cool!

Actually Steve I am not referring to the site you mention. It isn't even a "Z" website. I rarely visit zcar.com so I can't say anything negative about the site, just positive. Sorry if I made it seem that way.

I think the black seal around it throws it off a little, IMHO. The chrome rings would probably look better, again IMHO. BTW the EFI stuff I bought from you is installed and working!

I agree with you Pmg. There are other sites that bash people for asking simple questions. There are very knowledgeable people on this site. They have helped me as well. I have seen feathers getting ruffled once and while but not too often. Its hard to put into words what you want to say sometimes especially typing it in a forum. You only hope that someone understands what you are trying to say, like now, . Great group of people here!

Very nice!

A head that's "bent" down doesn't loose any material that would be lost if milled. A head that's "milled" looses material requiring more head work. Shimming cam towers etc. But you know that already so I think I misunderstand the "essence" of your question. Sorry.

I want to try my hand at the "restoration" part of it as well. I will tell you though, I am happy with the "full face" dash cover I bought from MSA. I had to take my wifes hair dryer to it to help shape it a bit where it didn't fit perfect but all-n-all Im happy with it. Forget its just a cover sometimes. The only drawback is that no one has been able to remove the tach and speedo with it in place that I know of. So the cover would have to come off and you will destroy it in the process. The good thing is they are only $100.00. A lot cheaper than having it recovered unless you have the funds burning holes in the pockets.

Ok, that makes sense. All along I thought all you had to do was mil the head, HG surface, and if the cam was warped have it straightend. I mean within reason of course.

And you have the time to do the above test. One question though, hopefully its not a dumb one, when the head is warped that much doesn't it affect the cam? Wont the cam also be warped? It seems logical to me that the cam would be or is it that the cam towers are affected?

Yeah, not a full rebuild but maybe a "minor overhaul". Will probably need it anyway.

I was assuming you were wanting it on the road soon but......Then maybe tear it apart and rebuild it. If it got that hot I would rebuild the whole thing. Great learning experience actually for all involved. Have fun! Ah to be a kid again and tearing into my first engine. Where have the years gone?

Agree with locating a "good" used engine. Too many variables with the one in question. Probably be less money and for sure less time on a used one.