Everything posted by rcb280z
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Head gasket leak
Zed, do you remember which one you used? Bar's has so many and they range from $4-$60. They have one specific to head gaskets but for a "blown" head gasket. Mine is not blown so I think I may go with the "alumaseal" one.
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Head gasket leak
Here is a good pic of the gasket. If you zoom in and pan to the right you can see the gasket looks mangled. Hope the stop leak helps.
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Head gasket leak
Yea, I looked online and found Bars aluma seal I believe its called. $8 and if it works that is a cheap "bandage". Here are the pics.
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Aftermarket ECU Megasquirt Install
Nice clean engine bay. Just what I like to see. Nice job! Can't do anything like that in CA.
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Head gasket leak
So my 77 has a head gasket leak on both sides of the head. Been leaking for several years. Not bad, just kinda seeping until recently. Seems to be leaking a little more now, I think. Think its time to do something about it. But I'm not ready to remove the head and replace the gasket. Does anyone NOT recommend stop leak additives and if so, why? I hear it can plug other passages. But what are my odds of that happening? My cooling system is in great shape. Very clean. Coolant in the Aluminum rad and overflow bottle is very clean looking. Don't see any debris of any kind. Not sure if that matters when putting an additive in. If I have to pull the head I'm going to feel obligated to do other things as well, not ready for that either. Guess I'm looking for a bandage and not a band aid so to speak until later this year when I can possibly have the time to remove the head. Was going to take a couple pics but cant find the camera! Guess you know what I'm doing next. Thanks for your input.
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Progress on rust repairs
Boy that is a beautiful Z!
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yikes!!!!! gas prices
91 is our highest octane and it still sucks! and that cost 4.69 a gal.
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yikes!!!!! gas prices
It's 4.29 here and about 5 months ago it was 3.39.
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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.
Loosen the lock screw and rotate the dizzy back and forth and see if it changes the way it idles and go from there. For some reason I think a buddy had to retard his timing because of the performance cam. It ran better but not good because he didnt do anything else to the fuel system. He thought a performance cam was going to give him lots of power on a "stock EFI" and it didn't.
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Hanging RPM
Does happen cold and hot? Have you checked to make sure the AFM flap is closing? Ok I see now, open happens when warm. Seems like a BCDD issue but you said you eliminated that as a problem. How long have you had the car? Did it do it when you bought it? etc.
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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.
Could be timing especially if you are running a performance cam. As far as the AFM goes, I still have my original one and have adjusted it numerous times. Just study all the thread on this site regarding it and it should make you feel more comfortable with it.
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Hanging RPM
Make sure throttle return spring is still attached. Just throwing things out there.
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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.
Did you install a stock cam?
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need a good mechanic in lv
I dont need one. I dont live there anymore.
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HellFire Status & release date annouced
Very cool, congratulations!
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Gauge bulbs...I should have left things alone
Then it is a height difference between the 2 bulbs. I know the MSA bulbs hit the "green dome" in all the gauges but Eiko A-72 does not. That is probably why the MSA ones seem brighter.
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Gauge bulbs...I should have left things alone
Zed Head, first thing I checked was to be sure the sockets were still in place and they are. Hmmm, maybe its my eyes but the bulb on the left (MSA) looks to be brighter in your pic. Im also thinking that maybe its due to the height difference. The MSA bulbs protrude further into the gauge than the Eiko's because they are longer, if that makes any sense.
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Gauge bulbs...I should have left things alone
Steve, I found that the MSA 4w bulbs are pretty good compared to the Eiko bulbs. I am happy with them. So I just have to put them back in the three gauges. But, I am curious how yours turn out using the harnesses and led bulbs. The thing is, I just installed a dash cap and don't think I can pull the Tach and Speedo out anymore because you have to pull them out the front inside of the dash. The 3 center ones come out the back side making it easy.
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Gauge bulbs...I should have left things alone
Okay so today I decided to remove the three gauges from the center of the dash to replace the bulbs. Had the MSA 4w bulbs that are to long. I purchased those Eiko green certified bulbs some members have been talking about. They are also 4w but, they are no where close to the MSA 4w bulbs. They are definitely considerably dimmer than the other 2 gauges. Bummer. Anyone experience the same thing?
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EFI fuel pump ?
Hmmm...those don't look lean to me. 3rd from right looks extra rich. You should see mine! Mine are too lean, according to the plugs. Nearly white like new!
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need a good mechanic in lv
There used to be a Nevada Z Car Club in Vegas back when I lived there. Contact a Nissan dealer, we used to put club flyers on the parts counter. I believe there are 3 Nissan dealers in Vegas, don't quote me. Maybe they can help you.
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303 metallic green
Sure is a beauty!
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Headlight relay options
I bought the kit from Dave before MSA started carrying it. Installed 3 years ago, I believe, and love it. So will you. Simple install.
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disposable voltage regulators?
I bought one from "Checkers Auto parts" in Vegas 7 years ago. Still working. Think I paid around $20. I see they have gotten more expensive! Rock Auto has a Beck/Arnley for $18. You may want to try it.
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My Datsun 240Z
Those vibrations / shimmy's are a PITA to find sometimes. Mine is about 95 percent gone and is one of those shimmy's that come and go. I'm just living with it for now. Went through the "rim repair" scenario etc, and nothing completely fixed it. Am curious to see what you find.