rcb280z

Nice job Grant. Is that a stock shift lever for the 77?

I've been running a Centerforce one clutch since 1997 and have had no problems. Back then it was the clutch to buy. Now everyone says to just run stock. I can't recall why I went with something other than stock but I have been happy ever since I installed the Centerforce. It sounds like you at least have a choice and should be pretty happy with what ever you choose. Let us know the one you install and how you like it.

Very nice! Wish I had the time to start mine.

I folded mine grant. That was probably 15 years ago and I purchased MSA's kit also and mine still looks good. Take pics.

FWIW my production date 5/77 is plumbed just like the 78 because in May of 77 is when Datsun changed the plumbing. When you order the valve cover hose order the one for the 5/77-78 one. That is if you want to re-route. My friends 4/77 is plumbed like yours siteunseen. His AAR is "gumming" up now. I have suggested the same conversion to him. Of course you need the other items to make it work.

I also ordered the microfiche CD. Bob

I did buy those but I don't think I'm "the one" you are talking about. I can't install a fuel rail like the one you have here in CA. It's not "correct". And they will fail you here on a smog inspection. But mine is fine anyway. I thought those clear glass filters were not rated high enough for our EFI. Hmm. Hardway, I agree about the heat shield. Just been too lazy to get it to fit after installing the exhaust header. Im sure it's my problem, though a small problem it is.

I bought these injectors for my 77 280 about a year ago and finally got a chance to install them last weekend. It's an easy job. Have done it a few times on other Z cars. Before I bought them I had mine cleaned and didn't really notice a difference after that. So I decided to bite the bullet and buy new ones. What a difference! I run an in line fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and fuel rail. Ever since I installed it I can observe it bleeding off pressure over about a 2 hour period. It bleeds down to zero. It still does. Was hoping that it was one of the old injectors dripping but it was not. I know it's not the FPR because it is new so it must be the check valve in the pump. Oh well no big deal because here is the good part, even after the pressure bleeds down to zero the car starts immediately! It is so nice to have it start the way it used to. However, I now have the "hard to start" problem after it sits for 15-20 minutes. I know vapor lock isn't supposed to happen in fuel injection but that is the symptoms. I bet if I install the heat shield back it should help. Took it off last year to install new intake/exhaust gasket and wanted to clean it up before reinstall but haven't done that yet. It is so nice to jump into the car it fire right up (when cold) like it used to. Even idles better than it did. Now on to the next issue...sounds like the left rear strut is broken.

That guy charges too much for the stuff he sells. Reddat I believe he goes by.

I had a hide-a-bed once in the early 80's with that same upholstery Do post more pics of the car. It looks like it was taken care of from the looks of the one pic.

hr369 How old are your pics?

hr369, I see in your pics California plates on a couple of these cars....are they actually in California?

Right on the "NO" o-ring. Don't know why I agreed to that earlier. However, I disagree with you on ATF being to thin. It worked great for me when straight 20 wt. didn't. Maybe the climate difference in Nevada? Not sure, but only ATF worked. Could maybe have had something to do with the fact that the su's I had were on a '77 280 motor.

Lots of pics!

Feel your pain man! At least you'll know what happened when you take it off again. Like you said, probably chingerd the gasket just enough!

What Jim said, Change the o-ring and use ATF. I did and it worked with no problems. When I was in Nevada I ran early su's on my 77 280 while I slowly collected all fuel injection(another story for another time) components and used ATF for the 3 years, trouble free.

Grantf, did you apply sealant on the top inside corners of the front cover? Look at EM-78 on page EM-21 of you 77 FSM.

That sucks! Was there myself late '08. During the worst time. Worked for a company for 19 years when they started laying people off, myself included! Was in upper management. That company is hanging on by a thread today! It has been a struggle for me ever since that day. Got my Handyman's licence and went to work for myself. Business is a little slow right now but for nearly 4 years work was fairly steady. May look into that book Wade speaks of. Good luck and hang in there oiluj!

I'm curious as well. Maybe Dave from Zs-ondabrain knows?

If it still looks like a Z and sounds like a Z then it is still a Z...IMO

One thing I would recommend, if it hasn't been already, is to replace ALL vacuum lines! Those lines are all brittle and cracked I'm sure of it. It's not that bad looking...Iv'e seen people restore Chevy's that had tons more rust, etc. Keep posting progress. Glad to see another 280 saved!

Now that's a good looking timing chain! Can't wait for you to fire her up.

My production date is 5/77 and I have an internally oiled cam. I'm almost certain that early February of 77 is when they made the switch.

Try running a rubber insulator between the pump and bracket.

Grant, what did you disassemble (from the head) if anything when you removed the head? Or was the head removal just strickly for the gasket refresh?