rcb280z

Really, no one has had a similar problem?

Boy if it was a mid 80's Buick I would say power steering pump but.... Sorry man don't mean to make light of your situation but you have to admit it sounds pretty close to that. On a serious note I would have the alternator bench tested. If you have an Auto Zone there, they don't charge. If it was metal on metal (internal engine) it would have a higher pitch sound, from what I have experienced.

I have a 77 280 with a 77/5 speed. About a year ago I replaced my shifter bushings (along with the 2 boots) because they were worn out and the shifter was rattling around. It was quiet for about the year when it started making noise again. I bought the 3 bushings and replaced them again expecting it to take care of the noise...it did not. It's only in 2nd and 3rd and mostly as I accelerate. Before I reinstalled the boots I checked to make sure the shifter was not making contact with anything. I was looking around because the bushings I removed were in excellent shape. Didn't see anything that didn't look right. Everything looked really good and tight. When I was installing the center console I was hopeful that the noise would be gone...wrong! Anyone experience the same thing or have any ideas? Thanks.

It may be the new tires. Been there done that! Find a place to road-force them. That's what I had to do. Like your Z mine didn't have a balance (wheel shimmy) issue until I bought new tires. If the shop doesn't have the equipment calibrated often enough it will NOT give them a correct balance. It cost me 20 bucks per corner and was worth it. It's as smooth as glass. I think it's been about 5 months now since I had it done. They spin your rim and tire and put a load on it as if it were on the road giving a true balance reading. Try it you'll like it.

Fuel damper is supposed to keep vibrations from happening so if have vibrations in return line I would replace the damper first.

Another way to test the AAR (especially when cold) is put a vacuum gauge on the intake and start the engine. Vacuum gauge should show lower vacuum. Mine is at 10 in. and gradually increases to 18.5 when warm. Neat to observe.

Hey Philip, I had the same problem on my 77 280. Ended up using rtv (I think that's what I used) on the bottom bolt and the matting surfaces of the inlet and front cover. I started with the inlet first and noticed the lower bolt was weeping so put some around the threads and it's been fine ever since. I have a spare front cover and noticed the bolt hole (lower) is drilled all the way through the front cover.

Have a local parts store cross reference it to other vehicles. Maxima used the same one

Don't know what year z you have but rockauto.com has that same vacuum advance that's pictured at ebay for half the price!

Check your vacuum with a gauge. Check fuel pressure. Then post results. Don't know what your smog laws are in Seattle regarding removal of cat. Your 77 has a floor temp warning lamp correct? If it is working it will light up when the cat gets too hot. I have a fairly new cat in my 77 and the tunnel gets warm but that's normal. Make sure the heat shield is still there also. How rich was it running? Was your mpg low? Also check timing and see if your vacuum advance is working.

Wish I could build me a new fuel rail like that. If I did I would fail the visual inspection here in California!

Start with the timing adjustment and have him put the "sniffer" in the exhaust to measure emissions and see what the results are before you do anything else. It may just be the timing is off. 6 degrees is a lot and will change everything.

Gary, I ran straight pipe while in Vegas with a super turbo muffler and loved the exhaust sound. Now that I'm back in California I had to install a new cat and also replaced my muffler, a new Magnaflo. The exhaust definitely sounds quieter. I installed the cat about a year before I replaced the muffler. Sounded quieter after that but there was no change when I replaced the muffler.

15-6214 $25.72 Motorsport Auto. Have one on my 77.

It has to be grounded, but does not need to be bolted down to run your tests....that's if Im understanding your question.

You know Zed, I didn't even consider the PCV. I replaced the valve and hose about 2 years ago and guess I assumed it would still be fine. It's worth looking into. I'll post what I find.

It sits in the garage most of the time. Might see max 1000 miles between oil changes. Have put only about 160 miles since January this year.

On the F.I. L28's, the hose from the valve cover to the throttle body boot has an oily residue in it. I believe this to be normal in small amounts but mine has started to back up into, as far upstream, as my AFM. Could this possibly be my valve stem oil seals going bad?

I believe this was covered already but I think you should also recheck all grounds particularly the EFI grounds.

Or as zkars mentioned, reverse the pull...bring it into the cab. Then you wont have to disconnect any of the main connectors under the dash. It's a lot easier to disconnect the harness from the engine compartment...been there done that.

Let us know.

Have you considered an upholstery shop to repair them?

Wow, you scored a very nice Z! What are your plans with it? You don't see too many 2+2 Z cars in this shape. Would be nice to see it stay original. I have a lot to do to mine to make it original again but am collecting parts now. BTW, welcome.

Ok, in pic #1 can you see a part number on the relay? Clean it up if you need to so you can see it then google it and see what it's for exactly. I wish you would take the pics I asked you for of that relay and how its wired in including a better pic of that "BIG shiny relay box" in pic 6. Pic 6 is too dark to see anything. You could also look up the part number that one too.

Go to MSA and search "fusible link". It even tells you how many you need of the 2 different types. So everything works but the fuel pump?