rcb280z

Hey Zed, correct me if Im wrong but if he turns the key to the on position and makes contact with the fuel safety cutoff in the AFM he will hear the pump.

What year is your Z again?

Are you able to remove the cover off of your AFM easily?

I didnt notice any signs from the burnt links Does this mean you do have burnt links?

If something is still wired wrong it will show up in the burnt links as soon as he trys starting it is what I'm trying to tell him

Did you check the EFI fusible links on the battery?

Check the horn grounds them selves.

Sounds good to me Stephen.

Thanks to sblake01 I have a set coming. Thanks for the info everyone.

Hey Jim, how about a couple of pics of how they look in your Z.

Thanks, but I have the hood....just need the vents.

Anyone know where I can find Hood vents for a 77 280? I found an original hood to install on my Z but can't find the hood vents anywhere. Any help is appreciated.

My 77 280Z passed CA smog with better numbers than our 05 2.5 Nissan Altima! Not that the numbers are bad for the Altima just that for some reason the altima is allowed higher emissions numbers! Doesn't make any sense to me. Oh wait, it's CA! It makes sense now.

Andrew, Actually I think it is about 3 full turns CW from being completely "out" CCW. That is the bypass screw is flush with the AFM body and then 3 full turns in CW. It worked for mine but may not work for you. It all depends on what kind of shape everything else is in...tps, afm, aar, injectors, fuel pump, fpr, etc, etc. I had a problem with corrosion in connectors & wiring and replaced everything affected. Then you really need an analyzer of some sort to give an idea if you are heading in the right direction. Mine was trial and error. I really spent a lot of time on the afm! I will take a couple of pics of the inside of mine this weekend that may help you. It will show you one important adjustment. Again it worked for me and may not for you but is worth a try. You can always put it back to your last setting. Have you tested your TTS, and WTS when the engine is hot and cold? A Lot of the time a rich condition (except for mine) is due to a faulty thermotime and or water temp sensor. So check everything else first. How much vacuum are you pulling. I'm at 19 with 10 BTDC timing and 800 rpm with over 276,000 miles. 186,000 after my basic overhaul. So I'm doing good except for the coolant weep at the head. Keep me posted on your progress and I will try to remember to post those pics. You can tell if your aar is working properly also by connecting a good vacuum gauge to your intake and when the ingine is cold start it up and watch the vacuum gauge. Mine started at 14 (aar vacuum leak) and as it slowly closed my vacuum slowly increased to 19. Kinda cool to watch. Anyway, good luck and post results.

Capt, it is great to see it work the way it is supposed to! I would imagine that if I continued adjusting I would hit a spot when the HC would start to increase due to being too rich....engine can't get enough air to properly burn the fuel and the catalytic converter can only take so much as well. Going to take it out for a good run today. Maybe put a couple hundred miles on her and then check the plugs. If they look good I'm done! Then I can install my new aluminum radiator I got at MSA during the April show. Going to pick up my new (original) hood and start that project as well. It looks good now but I like the original look better.

Ok here we are. The HC dropped slightly when we adjusted the bypass screw in the AFM richer "CW". 1 full turn took CO from 0.01 to 0.28 still way within spec. This was the 15 mph dyno run. Took it out for a spin and am very happy with how she is running. I can't remember what the 25 mph dyno numbers were but they only increased slightly as well. Going to run it around a couple more times and then check plugs. If they look good I'm going to stop with adjustments. She is running fantastic!

Never did the resister inline so I'm not really sure of the difference other than being able to do it while you are in the drivers seat while driving. I'm getting between 22 and 25 mpg right now and my plugs look good. She runs very well.

I think I am now just as anxious for this car to start as you are. Curious on what you are going to find. Hope you get it going soon.

Went back and looked at all your pics and saw the automatic fill tube...how did I miss that :stupid:

Actually the smog tests are done on dyno's now in CA. 15 mph and 25 mph tests. I believe they no longer do idle tests. I got to watch the process. The tech walked around to the back of the Z and shook his head. I asked if something was wrong and he said "oh no, thought the probe came out of the exhaust because the numbers are so low"! I'm not so concerned about the HC. CO is 0.01 at 15 mph test and 0.00 at 25 mph test....too lean depending on who you talk to. You are allowed 0.50 CO. HC readings were up there (but still really low for CA standards)) for both 15 and 25 mph test. It's only going to take a very small adjustment of the AFM bypass screw to dial it in where I want it. Just looked at plugs and they show lean as well. The leaner you go the more HC you produce. I am going to a shop here in Ventura to have them test it after I do a small adjustment and will post results. I'm curious just how much the numbers are going to change after my small adjustment.

Rock the car back and forth while watching the pulleys...do they rotate back and forth with the car movement?

Yeah Capt. Obvious, just what I am going to do. After I make a small adjustment to the AFM....to richen just a little. I can tell I am a little lean...the test results prove it also. Andrew, this was definitely a challenge. And one I thought I wouldn't win a few months ago. It was just a matter of understanding what the service manual was saying and I needed you all for that help a few times. Andrew, I will share everything I learned whenever you need it. I'm on this site daily. Hey Grantf, YES be very thankful you don't need to smog! Unless you have owned your Z from day one and have performed the maintenance required and didn't have a PO get in there and screw things up then it can be tough. Anyway, now I can install my aluminum radiator and start other projects on my Z. Will post that as well.

A lot of you know I have been working on my "rich" condition off and on with my 77 280. California has some tough smog laws! So after replacing, rebuilding, testing, cleaning, adjusting, rewiring, searching, trial and error, cursing (lots) she passed. I'm actually looking at the numbers now and have come to the conclusion that I can richen her up a little. The CO and HC readings are very low, too low for the engines sake as far as the CO goes. The smog tech said he has never seen numbers like these on a Z. So that made me feel pretty good. Thought you all would like to know. And thanks to those that offered help and ideas during the past 6 months.

What madkaw said...make sure it is making contact with the flywheel.

Get everything working before you start changing things around. Maybe the PO wired in a high output alt. Google high output alternator for the z car and compare the wiring with what you have now. Maybe some more detailed pics of the harness will be helpful. Is there still a voltage regulator behind the fusible link boxes?