rcb280z

Ok, in post #10 I am confused. Fellow members help me out here. I don't want to confuse the owner any more than he already is but.....pic #4 shows an alternator different then what should be there. Look at it close. Top left hand side has an unused connector? It is different from mine. Could it possibly be the high output alt. Pics 5 & 8 show a relay that doesn't belong on the 77 model. It looks like a fuel pump relay from a 78 and newer (78-83). So why are the fusible links gone. Did you remove them or did the PO and why? Lot of strange looking things here.

That's a good idea. I have a 77 also and was crusing one day when everything stopped working....a fusible link was loose!

Check fusible links, all of them including the one that connects to the battery and report back what you find.

Bet it will idle a lot better now. Shoot another video after you plug it up.

Interesting Wade. I'll research that. Cat is 2 years old but that doesn't mean a thing I guess if the car has been running rich. Although not extreme. So hopefully it's ok. Thanks!

Did that with a unit from MSA and mine was better! The new one has a "flat" or "dead" spot. I'm leery of trying another. They aren't cheap. So I have this brand new looking AFM in the garage and it's garbage.

Actually I have posted a lot regarding my EFI problems. It started with the "EFI relay unplugged" thread. It included the results of the test I had done a few months ago. I am going to attempt a smog this Saturday. Will post those results. There were a couple knowledgeable EFI guys that helped me through this site and everything (relays, sensors, etc) checked out perfect except for....the AFM, it has been messed with so much that I didn't think it would ever be right. Then I made an adjustment that changed the way the car idled and drove. So now I will see Saturday if it helped or not. Thanks for responding Hardway. Hope I have something positive to post after the test.

Ok maybe I should have said in California as a whole instead of narrowing it down to one location in California. Anyone in California I can talk to regarding smogging issues you have had with your 280z? Anyone?

Visited his shop in Vegas (drool drool) when I lived there and he was there. Got to shake the mans hand! You think he is talking to Enzo in Heaven right now?

...Or at least my EFI does. Is there anyone that lives near me (Ventura CA) that is knowledgeable when it comes to the EFI systems and is willing to help me trouble shoot mine? I need to talk to someone that has had issues getting their 280Z to pass smog and what they did to fix it. I know this is a wide open topic but I also know there are people out there that have also had problems smogging their 280 in CA and I need to talk to you. It doesn't matter how you failed smog, I want to talk to you about your experience. Thanks in advance.

LeonV, I agree. Which is also good news! Thanks.

Thanks for the info guys. Zed Head, I guess that would be advanced. I'm not sure why it's that way. I am a little confused as to why it was adjusted. I had a new head gasket put on in 1998. Don't recall anything about the cam timing. Would this or could this be a reason why it is so hard to get it to pass smog here in California because of the cam being advanced?

What do you think, coolant leak? That's my guess. Looks kind of strange though how it is gathering mid block. Maybe there was a little oil there and it's made a gooey mess. I can't be certain with the shop light I have but it seems to be coming from where the head meets the block between #3 and 4 cylinders. I performed a valve adjustment today and the number 5 intake was loose. All the others were fine. Then I noticed that my cam seams to be retarded. Note the close up...the mark is to the left of the "v" groove. Am I wrong for thinking that the only way for this to happen is for someone to actually adjust it so? What do ya think about this? Anyone else have similar situations?

Here in Ventura California it's $164! Reg fees-$69, lic fees-$8, vanity plate $78 (I'm dropping), county/district fees-$9. Damn, it was only $60 in Nevada with a classic vehicle plate which California doesn't offer. I only drive it a couple hundred miles a year. Im not very happy about this! The $164 is for 2 years. California should still offer a classic vehicle plate.

This was 16 years ago. The 2 on the left were 1996 and the 2 on the right were taken in 1997. Going to change out the side view mirrors and install the original hood, I think. It needs a new paint job. This time it will last longer...the car only gets about 1000 miles a year now. Before it was a daily driver. What do you think of the pics?

zcarsource has it for 210.00 with the throttle body complete.

Capt. Obviuos, my buddy didn't have one and hasn't taken one apart. He said if it was bad, rare, he would replace it. But that was rare as well. Asked him about removing it all together and blocking off the hole, he hasn't done that either. Looks like Zed Head is on to something. If courtesy nissan actually has it. I believe someone is parting out a 77 and 78 280 on zcar.com, it might be worth looking there for a used one. Or even zcarsource.com for that matter. Keep updating on your progress....I'm curious as well.

I'm curious on the "whole host of issues".....what were/are they? I wish I had an extra BCDD laying around. I too have often wondered about that "mysterious" gadget hiding under the throttle body. I know what it does, just have always wanted to crack it open. There has to be something available out there as a replacement for the diaphragms. Probably not a direct replacement but a close replacement. It helps that the BCDD is adjustable. I'm going to talk to my buddy that is a mechanic to see if he has an extra BCDD laying around and would be willing to open it up. Capt. Obvious, what made you start looking at the BCDD in the first place?

So did this happen after the AFM adjustment?

If the "BCDD" is at fault...there is an adjustment. It is in the FSM. It's my understanding that it is there to help reduce HC's. When coasting, mainly to a stop, from about 25 mph your throttle should "hang up" before dropping to it's factory setting. Mine does. Mine even has more hang time if I'm driving or braking harder than usual. That's when the BCDD is working.

What Willoughby said....make sure you have good vacuum to it and a clean/tight bullet connector. I'm assuming this just started happening and the car ran fine before?