rcb280z

On my last couple of oil changes I noticed the underside of my 77 from the front of the engine to the rear of the tranny was all wet with oil. Couple of drips here and there. I'd wipe them, the drips, and look around for the source. Couldn't find it. Because there seemed to be more dripping from the tranny than anywhere else I assumed the worst. Rear crank main or front tranny seal. I finally decided a couple of days ago that while I was doing an oil change I would jack the Z up higher and crawl under there and with a fine toothed comb, so to speak, try to locate the source. Still I couldn't find it. I just laid there, probably not the only that has done that, looking around and saying "I'm not coming out from under this car until I find something". I picked up my simple green and a rag and started wiping things down. When I got to the oil pan I noticed the bolts were pretty gunked up, most of them. I grabbed a flat head screwdriver and started scraping away at the mess. Then I would wipe it down with a rag. That's when it happened. I noticed that particular pan bolt moved! It wasn't even finger tight. First thing I checked for was a broken bolt but it was fine. I checked the others and all but the 4 at the front of the pan were loose! Not as loose as the first one though it took 3/4 to a full turn to snug them all up. After that I cleaned everything up and have put over 200 miles on it and no more leaks, yet. I still, when I think about it, can't believe they were that loose. I can't figure out why. Maybe someone has experienced this?

Jai, I would take a look at the switch mechanism's like ZedHead mentioned. I had something pretty similar happening several years ago and procrastinated and then I had smoke one evening billowing from the turn signal switch area in the steering column. One of my wires burnt up. There was quit a bit of corrosion in my switches. I had to rebuild them. Not saying this is your problem nor am I trying to scare you but, waiting and hoping it will go away isn't good. I would have it fixed as soon as you can.

I'd buy them. How nice that would be to have.

Wow, definitely an excellent write up! I have the 79 ZX dizzy and module in my 77 but when the module goes out I will be installing the HEI, much cheaper! Hell, I may just do it for a project

Disgraceful!

Good link, I got lucky and didn't have to go thru all that. It was a defective driver side tail light gasket. Replaced them both and good to go.

WOW! That's impressive work man. Enjoyed the hour it took to study what you have done so far.

And Zs-ondabrain will rebuild your switch if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself. He is a member here, just do a search for Zs-ondabrain.

Be careful installing the "window squeegees", they are flimsy. I ordered one to test it out because it was so much cheaper than MSA. By the time I was done installing it there were little dimples in the metal. The metal used is very soft, And you have to tap them on. I used rubber mallets, 1x2 pieces of wood laid lengthwise and still was able to dimple the metal. Wasn't happy at all. But everything else I ever got from them was great.

Tom Monroe say's the same for the head bolts-oil them.

He also recommends the use of turbo head bolts which I plan to use on my HG replacement.

Yeah I just read the same thing. Plus, I contacted the mechanic that recommended the copper gasket spray and he did use it every time including on mine 16 years ago. I have 2 coolant leaks at the HG. Tom Monroe in his "How to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun engine" also says to NOT use any sealer on an OE gasket. But that it's okay to use it if you are not installing a no-torque or an OE gasket. Pg 23.

I was wondering the same. Its supposed to fill "hot spots" and surface imperfections, so maybe. Can't wait to hear what your machinist says.

Greg, I had a Datsun mechanic tell me that I should use that permatex copper gasket spray on both side of the HG. I'm not sure if that's the right thing to do or not and wondering if anyone knows for sure. Would be good info if its correct. Good find Zed Head. Is a thread insert the same as a "helicoil"?

I believe that is the same area that mine is leaking. But mine stops as the engine heats up. I don't look forward to flushing the stop leak out of the cooling system! But it needs to be done.

That's really good to know that there is someone that goes the extra step to supply the correct parts. I'll be ordering the same gaskets soon. So I will order from Datsun Spirit. I have a list of things to do to my 77 and HG is the first thing. The other is to put the original hood back on, get rid of the centerline wheels, etc, etc. But thats a whole other thread.

I have to agree with you. I would only consider an $8000 paint job if I was going to enter it in car shows. It has really gotten expensive. Shouldn't cost no where near that to fix, hopefully. I remember when I had mine painted. $1200 with color change, color sand and buff. But that was nearly 20 years ago.

Clay bar is only going to "clean" the paint surface. It wont remove orange peel. I use it to clean mine on occasions. There is some serious orange peel in your paint. Like mentioned above you should take it to reputable body and paint shop for further advise.

Glad to see you didn't use a stop leak for the head gasket leak Greg. I used a stop leak for my 2 leaks I have in my 77 and all it did was make it worse. Now when I change my head gasket I have to flush out the entire cooling system. And that's not going to be fun. That's cool you found OE gaskets. I assumed they didn't exist any longer. Guess that's what I get for assuming. The leak at the rear of the head, is it near the #6 exhaust port area? I have one in that area and it leaks until the engine warms up. Seems to be near the "corner" where the head meets the block.

Looking for an evap check valve for my 77 280. They are NLA and I can't get enough info to cross reference to an aftermarket one. It's the one way valve that sits near the gas tank above the half shaft. Thanks Bob

It probably wants to be put out off its misery.

Definitely some interesting parts there. Will be watching for Blue to start a new one.

I have seen this process before and love it. There is an Audi spray chromed here in SoCal somewhere and it looks great outside of the normal factory orange peel it has. That shows up more with this spray chrome process. It will show every imperfection in the part(s). If you want show quality make sure you have a near flawless surface. Just like doing body work, the more time spent on prep the better the finish looks.

I believe MadKaw was using it, tinkering with it, something like that. Maybe pm him.

Yep, expensive is correct. Just got an estimate from just dashes for $1700.00! Guess I'm leaving the cover on it. That's too much for me to spend.