rcb280z

Wow! Lots of hard work there. Thats a unique battery tray. Nice work. Keep it up. Looking forward to seeing it finished. Are you keeping the stock engine and EFI?

I bought mine at Lowes in the plumbing department, thanks for reminding me rossiz. Couldn't remember where I got them. Let me know how the fan/s work out for you. I'm looking to replace my stock fan.

Chassis flex can ruin an "aluminum" radiator. Google it and you'll understand why I suggest it.

Your are lucky Mario. My Z runs clean as far as Im concerned just not clean enough for CA standards.

Mario, I get your frustration all to well. Being in a state that wants to eliminate cars like mine from the roadways is making it so difficult on owners like myself. Just keep plugging away at it. It's ok to get frustrated. Sometimes that helps me. I'm just starting to dig into mine again because of an issue I wont talk about in your thread. I will start a new one describing mine later. Hang in there.

I have extras of these if anyone needs them. Just pay shipping.

Gotta hand it to ya. I didn't like the 2+2 until now. Job well done. Enjoy the ride.

Looks ugly. I have never personally experienced your situation but if I were you I would take it and get a coolant system flush done. I get it done on all my cars. Coolant is always clean looking. Find a shop close to you. I wouldn't want to drive that any distance just in case it did start to over heat. There are do-it-yourself kits but it can get messy and then you have to find a place to dispose of it. Thats up to you. PITA in my opinion. Keep us posted. And I would replace that thermostat also. Fix your hose leaks before you go.

Have you checked the oil after the oil change to make sure it isn't "milky" looking? You didn't mention changing the coolant...did you? If not maybe you should. Don't stop with the engine oil. Do all fluids especially if its been sitting for as long as you say. It looks really dirty to me. Not sure if I'm looking at rusty water or extremely dirty coolant. Either way, you need to change it.

Did you notice if the EFI harness was still there? And I'm going to be pulling my motor soon and could use one of those rear engine lift brackets if you have an extra one.

What kind of shape was the 77 in? Anything worth salvaging?

Glad to help. Figured its good info for those who drive their Z cars daily and can't have too much down time.

So in a different thread I was on a search for 1157 bulb sockets for my 77 280. Didn't find originals but after purchasing a couple different types to try and then realizing they aren't going to work, I decided to take these apart and compare them to the stock one. Neither one of these 2 pictured would work as far as fitting tight in the tail light housing. The white sockets pictured would fit but not snug like the stock ones. And the "sockets" were shorter than stock as shown here . So I decided to pull the spring, spring plate, and 2 wires out of the new socket and splice into the original socket housing. Was also able to use the new rubber gasket that was supplied with the aftermarket ones as you can see in the first pic. So I was able to use the original housing and socket but installed the new wires, spring and plate pictured in the last pic I posted. Hope this helps anyone having the same issue.

They are a life saver actually on our systems. All I had to do was tap on the fusible link holders and I could get her to "hiccup" so to speak (due to loose link). Its worth a shot for sure. Would be nice if it turned out to be that easy huh? If there is ANY corrosion and I do mean ANY you will have problems eventually. I clean all my electrical connections once a year and when I had this problem a month ago it was during the time I should have done my annual cleaning. Thats what I get for putting it off. I live next to the beach in Southern California and have problems with sea salt and marine layers. So....

Gary, if the loose wire on the ballast resistor doesn't fix your problem I would check your fusible links under the white cover on the passenger fender. Does it happen when you hit bumps while driving it? I recently had a similar problem though my Z but it didn't shut down completely. It would act as if it going to though. Like a hiccup so to speak. It would really act up when I hit those round lane dividers on the freeway while changing lanes. I traced it to a fusible link. So what I'm trying to say is it seems as if you have a loose wire for sure and you may have already found it but if not.....

Thanks Peter, going with what Chris has offered for now. Never thought of going thru zcarsource. Thanks for reminding me they exist. Bob

Solder? Haha, don't know where you get that from reading my post. BTW I think it would be stupid to solder something like this so thanks for your post. The weld lasted almost 3 years.

Chris, it is the driver seat. Do you have a paypal acct? You can PM me with your info and cost. Thank you!

As I already said I attempted a fix once and it didn't last. Because the metal is so thin it required putting washers on either side and welding those into place then grinding it down to fit the pin on the seat. Even that didn't last. Thats why I am looking for a replacement part.

Anyone have this part? Its part of the reclining mechanism for a 73 240 drivers seat. I repaired it once already but my welding skills are sub-par at best. I may take it to a local shop but thought I would check here first hoping someone would have misc seat parts.

I couldn't resist on my last install. Just something you would normally do, right?....spin the propeller. I do it to make sure it spins freely. Interesting.

Ha thats funny. Was just going to post the same. Thanks!

For radiator, I have the one in your first link. Installed it 3 yrs ago, no issues yet. Make sure you install some rubber insulators. I want to install an electric fan but am not sure what to get yet.

Its out of stock too.

Please tell me your not sipping on the CRC 1 . I can buy the CRC 1 at AutoZone but haven't seen the liqui moly anywhere. Curious to know how well the CRC1 works.