rcb280z

Ok I searched the forum again and this time found a thread on tach removal with full face dash cap. He was unable to retrieve it through the front but was able to bend a mounting tab behind the dash and remove it that way (from the back). I will trying it some day soon when the temps outside cool down. It has been in the upper 90's at the beach! We set an all time record yesterday!

Thanks guys. Not matter what or how the tach has to come out. I will hopefully be able to post what I did to make it happen this weekend, as long as Im successful with it. Im anxious to see your dash replacement madkaw.

Thats a great idea. Worth trying for sure. I was thinking I would have to wrap something completely around the face somehow. Wonder if anyone has done it with the dash cap and was successful?

I just installed, 3 weeks ago, a new full face dash cover. Looks really nice. Now my Tach decides to fail! It's stuck at 2800 rpm. My question is: what is the trick to removing the tach through the front of the new dash cap? I havent spent too much time trying to remove it but it will not come past the "rolled" lip of the dash cap. Anyone else have this issue and found a solution? Thanks.

I just replaced a front cover seal because it was leaking but the "blow back" I got went under the motor. With a clean engine you will find the leak easier.

I used the alumaseal liquid and Im not convinced the leak has stopped. In about a week from now Im hopping the leak will be sealed. The car sits most of the time but will see the road everyday for the next couple of months. Thanks W. Appreciate the info. My cooling system in great shape otherwise. Just a small seepage from around the head gasket.

.....and mine? :classic:

Looks to me like its coming from the center to rear of the engine. Make sure oil filter is snug. Have you looked underneath to see if its coming from the pan? What have you looked at so far?

You will NOT be able to smog in most counties in CA if you alter appearance (engine) and performance of any vehicle 1976 and newer. I have a K&N air filter, exhaust header with egr port, and aftermarket exhaust and that is all I can get away with as far as mods go. Anyone with a cam in a 76 and newer Z car will have problems with passing smog. I have never seen a 280 pass with an aftermarket cam. UNLESS its done illegally. It is hard enough to pass smog with the stock set up anyway. Everything has to be in nearly perfect running order. CA has some of the more stringent smog laws out there. I have to make a couple adjustments, which CA frowns on, just to get mine to pass. CA will close down a shop if it is proven to be guilty of "adjustments" to make a car pass. That is why I had to learn how to do it myself. Dont get me wrong here. They are allowed to "fix" your car but it cant be smogged the same day after Failing. There are lots of restrictions. This is how it happens where I live. Maybe a little different in different counties but close to the same. Good luck.

Wow HaZmatt! What great progress. I sure wish I had the time to do what you are doing. Keep the pics coming man.

"ditto" I changed the color on mine in 97 and am now wishing I left it original in more ways than one.

What parts are you looking for?

Yeah I agree with Zed Head. Im looking at different struts. No junk in my Z. Just my 2 cents. Do what makes you happy.

Im with Madkaw on this. What I posted, #16. It is worth a listen for sure.

Good info, Thanks TomoHawk.

A cam tower if there is not enough oil pressure supplying the cam with oil, maybe?

Thanks guys, I thought it wouldn't be that bad.

After finding a coolant leak around the head gasket area and while I was under the car I noticed a couple oil leaks. So the one I want tackle now is the oil pan gasket. After finding none of the pan bolts loose Iv'e decided I will replace the gasket. I'm not sure but will I be able to remove the pan without any clearance issues or will I have to loosen motor mounts and jack the engine up any to gain clearance?

The Eibachs lowered my 77 an inch all the way around. I installed regular KYB's (gas) struts about 15 yrs ago. Some say that is a bad combo. No problems here. Might be time for a new set for me as well.

Have you listened for the noise around the tranny? Maybe a throw out bearing noise? I admit its a shot in the dark. Sounds like its a process of elimination now so..... I just listened again and it seems as if it is louder near the firewall.

What "event" did you experience on the high rev? Hope you didn't over-rev.

I don't see any note stating they can be used on a lowered Z do you? I could have missed it. If they are I'm going to order a set. They have a couple different sets so maybe one is for lowered cars. They just don't specify that I can tell.

Thanks Zed. I will check after a couple of days to see if the leak has stopped. Gooey blob form describes it perfectly. Guess I was more curious of what I would find when removing the rad cap. Now I also have to replace the pan gasket, and front crank seal. Guess when it rains it pours. What I get for not driving it more often I assume. Maybe 1-2 times a week. Chuck, I'm just going to hope for the best. I need it to hold til later this year when I can then remove the head and replace the gasket.

Not sure what to think about this stuff. I put it in the radiator yesterday and ran the engine for 20 minutes like it says. After the engine cooled down I popped the rad cap and looked inside. I expected to see and even mix between the coolant and the additive but what I saw was like "globs" of the additive floating by. The first thing I thought was Is it possible that some of these "globs" are going to plug a passage or am I just being paranoid? Anyone else experience this? Just something else for me to worry about with this car.

Yeah as a matter of fact I am going with the Liquid aluminum product. Thanks for the info. I'm going to try it and if it fails well......