rcb280z

Its my understanding that the fuel cut off happens when there is no oil pressure in the 78, hence the 5 pins in the AFM. My 77 has 7 pins because the fuel cut off is in the AFM. That's why Tomo got the results he got with his 78. You could even listen for fuel pump run to see if you hear it stop just before engine stall. Lots of good suggestions for you to try. Keep us posted.

beautiful car!

.....and when it's packed up and ready to ship take it to Greyhound express shipping. UPS and FedEx wanted over $200 to ship a 240 bumper and Greyhound was only $60! Just FYI.

Hmm...I have F.I. and want "carbies". I used to run the early SU's on my 77 280 until I came back to CA and I LOVED them. Much easier to from F.I. to carbs. I'm with the others, possible but not simple or a one day job.

So, update to the "idle" issue. It seems that I had adjusted my AAR to idle too low during the warm up cycle. I did this last year sometime and never really put 2 and 2 together that this would cause my idle problem during warm up. Now that I drive the Z nearly daily it was beginning to bug me. So I adjusted it back to where it was and it has solved the issue. Obviously Nissan had already discovered this issue and that is why it is at the "factory" setting it is at and glued as to deter any adjusting by "tinkerers" like myself

Oh don't I know how finicky. It once took a couple of days, trying off and on, to get it where I wanted it. Of course this was around 20 years ago

Hmmm...that's funny Captain, I was on my out to the garage to do just that, adjust the AAR. I figured if it idles 150-200 rpms higher for 30 seconds longer then I can accept that. Will post results tomorrow.

If your "header" is in good shape then don't replace it. A new CAT just might fix those numbers, make sure everything is in good working order before you go back to re-smog it. Sent you another PM.

Actually I think my dates might not be accurate so don't quote me. but everything else is correct

Jerry, the only time cold start is "working" is on initial start up. Just enough to squirt a little extra fuel for starting. At the same time an Auxiliary Air Valve is adding extra air for a higher idle. All this works. The issue is after it begins to warm up, I get the idle drop that drops too low and then slowly over about 4 minutes time comes up to a normal idle. And stays. Thanks

I think his CAT is bad because it doesn't have any production dates or manufacture date codes on it which according to CA is NOT legal without them. I know, what a crock! This started in early 2010. I went through it in 2010 with 77 280. Bought a CAT from Motorsport and went to my shop to have them install it and they said they couldn't because it was not 50 state legal. Got Motorsport on the phone and they didn't even know about the new "rule". But gave me a refund though. Justin, you need to call a local shop (muffler, exhaust) and tell them you need a Cat for your Z. It should cost you around $250 installed. Dont change out your header. They installed my CAT back a little and I have a Motorsport header. I use Pronto brake and muffler where I live and they do a good job. Where are you located. Im in Ventura. As far as CO's go, what were they? Did you fail by a lot? I have learned, to smog one of these in CA you need to thoroughly tune them up first and take it to them hot. Good luck.

My 77 280 has a strange idle issue when warming up. Start up is perfect, fires right up. Idles around 1200 rpm until it starts to warm up. During it's warm up the idle will slowly drop to around 500 rpm and then, as it warms up more (towards operating temp) it slowly increases to 800-900 rpms. This is every time. Iv'e checked for vacuum leaks at every connection I could think of but I'm not convinced its vacuum related. I sprayed starter fluid around the throttle body and anywhere I think there could be a vacuum leak while its idling low and found nothing. Im not sure where to go next. Any advice? Thanks I should also add that I checked for linkage binding and found none.

Also check and make sure your relays aren't the issue. I had a similar situation and found my relay was not making good enough contact in the connector.

Hmm...good info Jerry & Chuck. Guess I will check them out also.

Yep, raw materials are VERY expensive now. If you are considering it, do it now. Wont be long and you will not be able to chrome anything here in CA, from what I understand.

Jerry, that looks fantastic. Guess I will try that trick now.

I second PowderKeg. Dave's HL & PL harness upgrades are perfect. I have had mine for 2 years now and love them.

Impressive CG240Z! keep them pics a comin! I'm getting motivated again.

Philip, those look exactly like mine. I'm not 100% sure but I don't think the reproduction lenses have the "Kotto Japan" markings on them like the NOS do. (?) Carl, thanks for taking the words right out of my mouth. Serious collectors to me means, no reproduction parts, or short cuts, and no expense spared, period.

Those are just the lens and they are reproduction pieces. Philip, looks like they are being reproduced....Motorsport sells them for $900

I know Philip, isn't it crazy!

$900.00 is a GOOD price for sure!

HS30, guess I should have said state side.

Thanks Carl, you are right, I did a little investigating and found this same info also. I would like to give this forum and maybe another a chance at them before listing anywhere else because I may be the only one with a New set, NOT reproduction, that are still in the boxes never installed. I know that alone should be worth a lot. thanks, Bob

Wanted to give everyone a chance at something I thought I would never sell. But first I want to know what you think they are worth. I have a good idea but want to hear from you. These are the real deal, NOT reproduction, european tail lights. Take a look.