rcb280z

What 5thhorseman said. thread the nuts as far down the threads as you can, as close to the head as you can get them to help avoid breaking it again. Don't rush it. Take your time and let the PB blaster ( excellent stuff) work. Let us know how you made out.

Dennis, The Z is parked in my garage. I drive it maybe 3-4 times a month. So maybe I need to give it some more time. However, my passenger side is good. But I did change it before the driver side. Thanks for your input. Bob

Hello all, I replaced my door weather stripping that I purchased from MSA about 5 months ago. The one that seals completely around the door. The passenger side door now opens and closes like it should. The driver side however is still really tight. Harder to open and close. I have read that it takes a bit to "seat in". I thought 5 months was long enough. I tried adjusting the door catch on the body itself with no success. Is there something else I can do. Sometimes I think I'm going to break my door handle off, the exterior one that is. Thanks for your help. Oh, any fuel injection guys or gals out there mind looking at my post "another Z with cold start issues" would be appreciated. Thanks. Bob

Guess I was lucky. Found my exhaust smell source when I removed the tail light assemblies. Installed two new seals and no more smelly exhaust.

I have spent a lot of time researching this issue both on this site and my car. I have a 5/77 280Z. It is running really good. Fuel pressure is correct (just leaks down over several hrs) I can live with that for now. I just prime the pump in the morning (when I do drive it) before starting it. I checked engine vacuum and it's at 19. The issue is after priming fuel lines for about 5 seconds (i have a pressure gauge in line) it doesn't start right away like it used to. It cranks probably 5-7 times and then fires. The idle is around 700 rpm. I have to throttle it around 1300 rpms for a couple of minutes before it will hold there until warmed up. After that it idles at 800. Cold start valve, thermotime, coolant temp sensor, air regulator are new. All connectors except TPS are new. All vacuum lines are new. Replaced them about 2 yrs ago while getting this car ready to pass CA smog. Got 3 k-ohms at pin 13 and ground today. Temp outside was about 59 degrees when I checked. Everything that I can tell checks out good or good enough. I know the check valve is bad and will add an in-line one later. That's why I prime the fuel lines before starting it cold. Before I forget it doesn't matter if the engine is warm or hot. However it does start better (less cranking) when warm. I used to brag about how fast it would start. I have checked so many things. I spent a lot of time searching for vacuum leaks. I found one small one and it didn't change anything. I did notice something the other day when I was changing out the last of the connectors. It was the air regulator one and I forgot to plug it in and started the engine and it rose to 1500-1600 rpms. I plugged the connector back into the air regulator and it gradually dropped to 800 rpms. That was like it was when the Z was new. I guess I'm picky when it comes to my Z but I know something isn't right because it was better. And the battery is good. Holds charge, and good cranking amps. Timing is somewhere between 12 and 13. Seems to run best there. Just trying to supply everyone with as much info as I can. Hopefully someone has had the same or similar issue. Any ideas? Thanks. Bob Merry Christmas!

Yes. I purchased mine from MSA about 12 yrs ago. You do not have to remove the dash. At least with the one I purchased anyway. I did have to silicon it in place though. And it makes it a little more difficult on removing the gauges that come out thru the front of the dash. I believe I had to remove my cover so I could take out my tach if I remember correctly. Cheaper way to go to make your dash look good. Hope this helped. Bob

Boy there could be lots of things going on here. I did the same thing with my 77. Ran su's until I could figure out and test every FI part, componet. I know there is a fuel pump cut off in the AFM from 75-77 but not sure about 78. You might want to start there regarding the fuel pump running after shutting car down. My AFM had been richend so much that the cut off was not working. You could pm me your phone number and I could run down everything with you on what I had to do. It's a long list. My 77 is running cleaner than my 05 altima! and has great power. That was hard to accomplish here in CA with the smog laws. Let me know if you want to talk. Bob

The thing I hate about the plastic covers is that if you need to remove one of the dash gauges like I did you have to remove the cover. Not sure about anyone else but I glued mine in place with silicone caulking. So I kinda destroyed it removing it. Instead of ordering a new one I put my dash mat back in place for now. It does look nice.

Do you have a water inlet (bolts to timing cover)? mine has corroded on my 77 280. if you have one can you shoot a couple of pics and give me a price. rcb280z@yahoo.com Thanks, Bob

I have a 5/77 280. What is the difference between the black or green base on the cold start valve? I know the 75-77 models use the same cold start valves and the 78-83 use a different one. which one is which? I am putting my z's f.i. system back on now (restoring) and for some reason I can't remember which on is correct. I have both green and black and don't remember which one was on my intake. I have everything else bagged and tagged except this! Your help is appreciated. Bob

Thanks Arne. I will order a set of 240 seat mechanism covers, cool!! I bought this Z in 85' and never changed the seats myself. Wonder why previous owner did. Nice Z by the way.

Can anyone tell what Z these seats are out of and if the mechanisms are correct? I ordered a set of seat mechanism covers for a 77 280 and the second pic is what I received. Thanks for the help. The covers don't fit Bob

ztherapy is the only place I would buy them from. The best out there. Had a set on a z when i lived in vegas. hated putting the FI back on it when I came back to california. I miss those su's! MSA sells his su's.

That's what scares me! I have the fiberglass 240 style bumpers on my 77 280 and have had close calls with people behind me. That's a shame man. Good thing you were not hurt.

Hope you and your families have a happy and safe Easter. Bob:)

Go to www.eastwood.com and look at a product called sharkhide. It's cool stuff!

I need the hard water (coolant) line that runs along the front of the valve cover. It is the line that supplies coolant to the block under the air regulator on top of the intake manifold. Mine has a pin hole and I can't locate where exactly. It is corroded and I'm not sure it is worth fixing. So I'm hoping to find someone with a parts car or such that can sell me one that is in great shape. Please let me know. Thanks. Bob

Thats a great idea! I will give it a shot. Thank you.

Picked up a few items yesterday at Motorsport auto. Driver side door weather striping, billet alternator adjuster arm, headlight seals, and a couple odds and ends. Am impressed with everything especially the door weather strip. Took 2 minutes to remove the old one. cleaned up around the area good and the new strip went on almost as easy as the old one came off. This is the aftermarket one they carry. 34-1074A motorsport auto part number. The door fits very tight right now until everything seats in. Now i need to address the window rattle. Everything else is quite except the window. Not sure yet what is causing it but hopefully someone here in the forum does. Next project is the headlights, then cooling system, then I need to drop the tranny because it looks like I might have a rear main leaking a little. Need some input there as well. Not a daily driver so I can take my time. Bob

I did post pics on the 11th and no one responded but 80 some people viewed them. So go figure. Maybe the pics aren't good ones.

On a previous post by me I am looking for info on how to tell the difference between 240 260 and 280 seats because I ordered mechanism covers for my 280 and they didn't fit. I found in one of my Car and Driver books articles published on the 75 76 and 77 280's. These articles were printed when those years came out of the factory. There are very good pics of the interiors and all 3 years show horizontal lines in the seats. Same as mine. So I'm going to assume that the mechanism covers I bought are incorrect. If anyone has original un-restored seats can you attach pics for me. Maybe one of the mechanism side and just a straight on pic of the seat itself. Would be greatly appreciated. Bob

It is horizontal. That's why I ordered mechanism covers for a 280 because aren't 280's lines horizontal? The ones I received do not fit. I will post pics when I get my Z back from the paint shop. My buddy is re-shooting my fiberglass hood for me. Thanks everyone.

Thank you Darom. I have something to look at now. Although these could be 240 seats with 280 rails. Hmmm. I'll have to look at them again.

how do you tell the difference between 240, 260, and 280 seats? thanks. Bob

How do you tell the difference between 240, 260, and 280 seats? Does anyone know? I want to order a seat upholstery kit. I was told by someone 6 years ago that the seats in my 280 are not 280 seats. I can't remember if he said 240 or 260. But he knew right away they were not 280 seats. He has since passed away so I can't ask him. Any help is appreciated. I recently posted pics but I guess not very good ones because no one responded. Bob