GunnerRob

According to the site below, geckos look like a good choice for controlling your spider problem. The site also recommends birds or scorpions, but I'd pass on them (one is hard on the cars paint, the other on peoples nervous system ). Here's the link. http://www.xs4all.nl/~ednieuw/Spiders/InfoNed/enemies.html

My we have a timid bunch here! :surprised

Victor, When you had your plates done, did you check with DMV? Did you have to get new tags (stickers) for the new plates? I'm kind of curious about this because my plate's looking kinda shabby, but if it's too much of a hassle I'll just get new ones from DMV. Thanks

Here's a link to a list of license plate restorers you can check out if you find it is legal to do in California. I haven't had this done nor cleared it with the California DMV. http://www.autoguide.net/hobby/license_plates.shtml If you find out what the DMV says about this, please post back here to let us all know what their response was. I searched Ca. DMV and couldn't locate anything on this.

Good link Carl S. There is also a good article on repairing and re-skinning door panels. The fiberglassing method used on the door panels could also be used to repair and strengthen the spare tire cover! Thanks again! :classic:

Webdawg1, sblake01 is correct in that the US '75-'78 280Z's don't have a fuel filter prior to the fuel pump that's located back by the fuel tank. The only fuel filter in these Z's are the ones on the passenger side in the engine compartment. It's a big honkin' black cylinder mounted on the front of the wheel well. Any other fuel filter besides that would be added on by a previous owner. In the picture below, the filter is the round, shiney object on the bottom right side.

Stephen, I think webdawg1 was talking about adding a fuel filter between the gas tank and rear fuel pump, not replacing the existing filter in the engine bay. Webdawg1, do you have a part number for the filter housing and element? Was there any information on the pressure and/or flow rate losses?

You gotta try a peanut butter and banana sandwich sometime...oh, yummy!

C'mon...there's no need to post the car with obsceneties (sp?) still on it. After all, a can of white spray paint isn't going to ruin the paint job or break the bank. Kids don't need to see this. :mad: I'm surprised eBeay let this pass.

My son was looking through the latest (July 2005) edition of Road & Track and came across a two page Nissan ad featuring Ron Carter with his Bre as well as a variety of other owners with their cars! I don't recognize the other Z's in the ad, so if you're in there, go ahead and bask in the light! You deserve it after all the hard work you've all done!!! :rambo:

I thought GM dropped the straight 6 after using it in the mid 60's Pontiac Tempest and Chevy Malibu (although I new a guy who had a '67 Firebird that had an overhead cam turbo charged straight 6) when they developed the 3.8 V6.

Hey Carl, I bet you could sell those drums on eBay and make a fortune!!! You could call them "deep koy ponds" or "toy storage units for tall kids" or "an empty barrel of monkeys"!

Tanny, is that an original 60's era swamp cooler? My dad bought one of those to use in our '59 Dodge Sierra wagon for our move from So. Ca. to Florida in June of '64. As I recall, it worked pretty good, especially since it was mounted in the rear passenger window next to where my brother and I were sitting!

Ya know...if you filled in the birthday info in your profile, your name would automatically come up in the "birthday box" on the home page on your birthday. Isn't modern technology marvelous? Happy get born day!

So...there is hope of salvation for the heathens!

Steve3564 was asking about the high/low beam switch. Your article is for the "combination" switch that turns the headlights on/off. So, are you saying the combination (on/off) switch contains the contacts for the high/low beam (turn signal stalk) switch? Honestly,I'm not trying to be argumentative, I'm just trying to get this straight in my mind (man, I hate it when I get confused ).

Isn't the high/low beam selector on a 240z the same as on a 280z? If so, the selector is part of the turn signal switch and activated by pulling on it to select high or low beams. Now, I recall that a few weeks (or months) back one of our members gave an illustrated thread about how to clean and repair the turn signal/headlight switch but now I can't find it. :stupid: Let me know if I'm off track here, please.

Hi MikeW. I'm having trouble with the .pdf file. Selecting it only partially downloads and displays the file, and "save target as" only gets 139kb of it. Is it me or is something amiss with the file/link? Thanks in advance.

The thread was only about five threads down from this one. Here ya go. Now don't lose this one! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=132851#post132851

First off, where do you live? There are hundreds of members in this club that could help you or direct you to a reputable shop if they know what part of the world you're from. If your dad took good care of the Z by giving it regular oil changes, watching the fluid levels, and making repairs promptly, 129k miles on a Z engine is low, especially for a 23 year old car. If the interior and exterior is in good shape, it's definately worth keeping. From what you've said so far about your dilema, $1000 is extortion just to tell you what needs to be done to repair your engine. My Z mechanic doesn't charge me a dime to tell me what needs to be done and give me a written, accurate estimate of parts and labor to do the work. It sounds to me like the only parts your car needs are a new manifold bolt, nut, gasket, and possibly a used exhaust manifold that can be found at a salvage yard (or bought from a member here). I'd be surprised if the parts and labor was more than $400. I wouldn't recommend driving the car the way it is for too long, especially if you live in a cold climate. Heating the engine up, then having it cool off with a gasket or manifold leak could cause the valves to warp. Then you are looking at many more bucks to fix. Do you have the parts that fell off, and can you post pictures of them so we can see what might need to be repaired?

I recall one of the members had devised an alternative solution to paying up the nose for these parts. I don't recall his name, but do recall he's in Europe somewhere. If you were to use the search function, I'b be willing to bet you could find that information. So, wadaya think?

Well, hopefully my reply was an icebreaker for everyone. I'd like to here from everyone else as well. BTW, did I get the job?

Hi Wayne, I assume I'm the person you were directing this question at. To start with, I've used "DCA/Softdesk AutoArchitect" with Autocad starting with ver. 10/386 and used the two together up to ver. 14 in a facilities engineering environment (architecture, electrical, power distribution, HVAC, piping and utilities, client presentations, rendering) in 3d. I've also used the standalone version of Autocad up to 2000i for mechanical (piping design, HVAC) & structural design. I've also had the frustrating misfortune of having to use Microstation J and V8. What a turd in the punchbowl that turned out to be. I'd have to say 2000i was my favorite version of Autocad. I especially liked the Design Center feature in it. The only "civil" work I've done with cad (Microstation) has been for domestic water and fire main underground distribution systems.

Right now it's in .dwg cad file format. I can save it directly to .dxf, .3ds (3d Studio), and .sat (ACIS). If those won't work for you, I could try and find an IGES translator for Autocad 14.