GunnerRob

Mark, doesn't the laser scanner already read 3d points into the database in its native function? If so, then I would think its output is vector based and the person scanning the model could scan all the surfaces, then bring them into a vector based cad system such as Autocad and manipulate the meshes into position to form one model. From that point the assembled vector model can be exported to a DXF or IGES database for use in your program. BTW, I have the '57 Chevy 3d model on my hard drive as we speak, if you want it.

Good poll Will! I voted "When a new part offers a performance or maintenance gain the old part did not have" because of past experience. I could also have selected "When the factory parts cost substantially more than non-factory replacements" because there are times when I've had to make a decision to buy quality aftermarket parts and keep the car running, and walking to work to save more money for new or remanufactured Nissan parts. I do, however, use genuine Nissan parts whenever they are available and the best value for the money.

Ya Carl, but the 'cool' factor far outweighs the unit's performance! Man, talk about 'period correct'!

I've spent 2 hrs trying to find a DWG (Autocad drawing), an IGES or even a DXF 3d model and came up empty. It looks like Gav240z is about your only hope, unless of course you have access to a 3d digitizer to scan a 1/24 scale model, or a really BIG one to digitize your Z car (maybe JPL in Pasadena has one you could use ).

Would that be with a double barrel or pump? :tapemouth

Ah, but Stephan....they did make them for the right side...for Japan, Australia, England, The Bahamas...

Can you wipe it down with 30W oil?

From what you've said so far, it sounds like your lines are ok. Have you determined your existing lines need replacing? If so, do you mean the hard lines, the rubber fuel lines, or both? If you need new hard lines, you might want to see what you can find at your local salvage yard, or ask if anyone here has a spare set to sell you. As far as rubber fuel lines go, you want to buy a good quality hose that is designed to use for fuel injection. Fuel injection systems operate at higher pressures than non-injected systems. I believe our 280Z's run at about 60 psi.

When's the last time the fuel filter was changed? If it doesn't need changing and the gas tank needs draining/cleaning, you might want to think about cleaning out the fuel lines as well.

Hearing these stories of automotive abuse makes me so thankful I have had an excellant Z mechanic to help me with my Z. He's been working on these cars since '70, first at a Datsun dealership, then at his own Datsun/Nissan shop. In the 22 years he's worked on my Z cars, I've never had to take the car back for the same repair. Plus, he appreciates owners who want to perform repairs on their own cars, to the point of showing/telling them what needs to be done and how to do it! Plus, I've had my car in for a repair and after picking up my car, found out he found a minor thing needed attention and just took care of it, for free, without saying anything about it afterward. Plus, in all the years I've known him, he has ALWAYS owned and driven a 240z. I witnessed him cutting himself once, and he bled Datsun blue blood!

I think most instructions have a "GOTCHA" sentence in them that only appear after you reach a certain frustration level. Thanks for sharing that with us Ed. I'd of been right where you were at with that pump! :mad:

Huh? What's koo mean?

DMV wouldn't let me have "JAPJAG". :devious:

...and didn't journalists usually have their name somewhere in the article indicating that they wrote it? :tapemouth

Don't know about the automatic to stick difference but, I do know I replaced an original '78 4 speed with a '81 5 speed and used the original driveshaft without any problems. If you have to replace the driveshaft, I highly recommend finding or buying one that has replaceable u-joints. I bought mine from Motorsport Auto and it works well.

Yes, he was Stephen. Even to the point of suggesting I buy any Z as soon as possible (he prefered the 280z mainly because of it's fuel injection). And that was something he didn't do directly very often. Man, I sure miss spending time with him.

Hi Z Excellence, The seat mechanism covers are usually installed with the seat in the car. There are three tiny screws that the covers mount to the seat frame with and they are located on the front, top, and rear of the cover. In fact, I would recommend that they be installed with the seat(s) already in the car and moved far forward on it's track. (5-26-05) OK...I get it now. :stupid: You were saying to move the seats toward the driveshaft (propeller) tunnel before tightening the bolts. That makes sense. Thanks for the tip!

I don't know, but I'd check in the garage to make sure he didn't steal your car too! :eek:

Ya sure. Why not? It sure beats a '76 Pinto (a special thanks to Carl)! After you get your Z back up to snuff, you could sell the 2+2 or part it out.

My dad bought the Z new from the dealer and I inherited it in 1990. I'm sure he hadn't removed an overflow tank due to the fact that he didn't mention doing it to me and had no reason to remove it. He and I were very close, especially when it came to our experiences with our Z cars (I had a '78 280z at the time). Also, with him being a piping systems engineer and my being a piping systems designer and working together at different times, we always bounced ideas off each other concerning designs. He believed components are there for a reason and was very reluctant to modify a system unless it could be proven to be an improvement. He still had the original AM/FM 8 track stereo when he passed away!

My full factory optioned, California sold 280z didn't come with an overflow tank. I bought one from MSA 5 years ago and mounted it on the front side of the radiator support on the passenger side. It is definately worth having from both an environmental and mechanical systems standpoint.

Phenomenal! Those images are breathtaking. I can't remember ever seeing a storm that displayed so much power and beauty. I wonder if those storm cloud shapes are common to that area? Carl, do you know if those images were all of one storm? Thank God nobody was hurt!

First things first. There are variables in manufacturing and finishing processes out of my control that will determine the final price. I will know a final price after I know what the parts cost to make. At this time it's too early to tell. I don't want to say they'll cost $XX.XX today and come back later when they're ready and ask for $YY.YY. That wouldn't be fair to you all or myself. I will say however, that the value of these covers will far exceed that of the original plastic covers and be sold at a fair price. All I ask is that you have patience with the time frame and judge the final product with your wallet after it is ready to sell. Thanks again, Rob

The molding and casting process will begin Monday. I'm told it will take about 6 weeks to complete this process. I wish the time was shorter, but the reason it's going to take so long is because I'm having them done professionally, and sometimes doing things professionally means having to wait my turn (so much for me getting instant gratification). I'm going to look into a faster and better method of coating these covers than I was originally considering. I'll let you all know what I've decided on after I make a decision. I haven't forgot about all of you who are onboard with me in this, and I promise to keep you informed of the progress as it happens.

You could load the back up with lead additive encased in asbestos (to soak up any spills!).