GunnerRob

My '75 280Z came from the factory with door locks that were designed NOT to lock by pushing down on the interior lock knobs with the doors open. A person had to use a key and the door had to be closed for the key to lock the door. This may have been designed to keep people from locking their keys inside the car. I'm wondering, if you can't find a problem with the mechanism, if the previous owners have installed a '75 mechanism.

Season's Greetings! This may sound dumb. My not having lived in a part of the country where it snows, I was wondering, do you guys who live in this area decorate the outside of your house for Christmas? I'm thinking that you don't because of the damage the snow would cause the decorations.

When I select the first file, the "install.zip", I'm taken to an Angelfire page that tells me they don't allow direct linking to files hosted on Angelfire. I thought I could just download the install.zip file but I get sent this Angelfire page. Oh well. The other files give me the option to download them to my PC, but I think without the "install.zip" they're useless. If I'm missing something please let me know.

Hi Bonnie, I recently had a rebuilt '81 5 speed installed in my 280z. My original 4 speed, after seeing 255,000 miles, literally ground to a halt. I selected this 5 speed for the taller 5th gear for much better freeway speed gas mileage without sacrificing much in acceleration from a stop. But then, I'm more of a high speed in the twisties person than a dragster. I checked out a really good web site that has a transmission calculator for all combinations of transmissions, differentials, tire sizes, etc. It appears that the '77-'79 factory 5 speed is as close as you can come to your original 4 speed in 1st thru 4th gears, with a 5th gear that will drop your rpm's at 75 mph in 4th from 3400 to 2960. The difference in 1st gear at 6000 is 37 mph now to 40 mph with the above mentioned 5 speed. These numbers are with 195/70-14 tires. The 5 speed with a 4.11 differential, as mentioned by 2ManyZs, will get you 32 mph in 1st gear at 6000 rpm and 3600 rpm at 75 mph in 5th gear. Here's the web site link if you'd like to look at some other number comparisons: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ BTW, here in So. Cal., it cost me $700 for the transmission and installation. Have fun! Rob

Bill, you're right. And my apologies(sp?) to everyone. The link I posted doesn't take you to the proper page. But, from the that page select usc/morton/cargroom, then accessories. On this page you'll find a group of products. Select USC's sound control pads and you're there. I hope this helps. BTW, this web site is finicky so be patient.

I'll be looking to do something similar to my 280Z soon. What I've come up with so far is to line the interior surfaces (floor, rear deck, door skins, rear sheetmetal interior) with a "asphalt paper" product called Q-Pad (my thanks to Kmack for this info, I think). This is the same stuff that was used in strategic locations by the factory. It's quite thin compared to foam padding and I'm sure more durable. The thing that attracts me most to this method is ease of installation and the fact that these pads won't hold moisture and cause rust. The downside may be that once installed they'll be difficult to remove and you'll be adding some weight. I believe the 12" square pads weigh about 1 pound each. Here's their web page: http://www.uschem.com/products/index.html

Wow Enrique! What a blessing KATSUHIKO has bestowed upon you. I've been peaking in on your search for something that I thought was an extreamly long shot. And not only did Alan and Kats help you with your endeavor, Kats has come through with flying colors, and he's presented it as a gift! Talk about brothers-in-common! As for myself, I could only hope to return the favor to people like you and Alan for all the invaluable help and information you all have provided to people like myself and others that you probably don't even know about. Congradulations! Merry Christmas to all!

After seeing all the beautiful pictures some of you have posted showing pristine clean engines and all the accompanying components in the engine compartment, I was wondering, how do you get them to look like they came from the factory without actually buying them new? I haven't taken down an engine or had to clean car parts since I was a kid back in the seventies! And back then we didtn't have to look over our shoulder to make sure the EPA wasn't watching us cleaning parts in a can of gasoline, then pouring it down the drain. What tools do you use to clean your parts? What do you do with the chemicals you use for cleaning? Can the parts be cleaned to near new condition or do you get them close, then have them replated? A guy I know has a cabinet sand blaster. Is that something I should look into getting/using? Any help is appreciated.:classic: BTW, I live in California. Home of the environment police.

Sean, My statement was not intended to be a euphemism, nor was it intended to patronize. It was meant as a sincere statement welcoming gen z as a new member to this club. And I'd like to see more women become as enthusiastic towards the Z marque and to participate in this forum. In my opinion euphemisms are for small minded people. I personally refuse to stoop to that level. If this reply to your post is misguided, please accept my apologies.

I for one am glad to see you've decided to stay! Hang in there with fixing up your ZX. I have a close friend who works on and just loves his '80 ZX. I've tried putting a bug in his ear to try out a 240-280 Z to no avail. It's nice to have you as a member with a new perspective.

I've not even seen a Z here in the US without this feature. From what I've seen here and talked to Z owners about is that the verticle units were installed in the very early ('70) 240Z's. Then from that point on the horizontal units were the norm. I believe the hazard lights and switch were a DOT (Depatrment of Transportation) requirement here in the states, but I cound be mistaken on this one.

Uh huh, I see you don't have to worry about body rust!!!

I thought this web page was kinda fun! Imagine you've just won the 24hrs of New York. (turn up the sound click anywhere above our gift from France) http://doody36.home.attbi.com/liberty.htm

Thanks sjcurtis, I'm looking forward to your reply. Rob

Hi Gen Z, Victor and Rob (not me, the other one) have given excellent advice. I've had a 280Z since 1980, two 280's, and can testify how important it is to have a repair shop that truly is into these cars. My mechanic often finds and suggests corrections to past mistakes made by other non and so-called Z mechanics. Its amazing what some people do to these cars. Personally I can't see myself without a Z. And I'm also realizing how important these people on this site, and their advice and support, are to me as well! There's a lot of knowledge and experience here. You didn't say what part of California you live in. If you live near or can get to the Ventura area I'd be more than happy to turn you on to my mechanic here. He has done most of the major work and all of the diagnostics on my Z cars since 1982 without even one unnecessary repair, period! I refuse to let him retire!!! Good Luck, Rob Oh, by the way, this mechanic of mine only works on Datsun/Nissans (approximaly 90% are Z's).

sjcurtis, I really like these mirrors you posted pictures of here. Are they made locally near you or did you find them in a catalog such as MSA? I think they would be a great replacement for the stock mirror on my '75 Z since they are similar in style and size as the original (USA) factory units! Plus they would enable me to have a passenger side mirror. I couldn't tell from the photos if the passenger side mirror is convex or flat. Could you please fill us in on that? Were they easy to install with what was included with them (spacers, shims, etc.)? And did they require drilling new holes or modifying the existing ones ? Well, they look great on your car! Enjoy, Rob

All this talk about smog equipment requirements for a 72z sounds so weird to me. Especially after reading so much about mods being done on these cars here on this site! I'm surprised to hear that Texas is still requiring original smog equipment on this car. California, the land of tree huggers, doesn't even require this stuff on pre-74 cars. I don't know for sure but I thought these exemptions were federally inspired. If it were me I'd be looking where mperdue is. There may be something in the state code about exemptions for cars that are a certain age or older. I'd cetainly be looking for my ammo there. Good luck and keep us informed. Rob

Thanks again guys. Did any of you use the metal preparation and/or cleaner/degreaser before using the Por-15? And can you paint over Por-15 or do you need to use their Tie-Coat primer first? EScanlon, the air blower with the attachment definately looks like the way to go. Speed is good! Sorry if I seem a bit anal about all the details but the designer in me begs to know all the information on this process before I get started.:classic:

You guys are great! From all the advice you all gave, I don't feel like the obssesive/compulsive person I thought I was concerning this matter. It is important to me to do this only once (it is a lot of work!) but I feel like it's worth it. After all, it IS a Z! And besides that this one has sentimental value to me. It was my dad's that he bought brand new and I inherited it when he passed on. EScanlon, what is an air blower, and how much, would you estimate, of the Por-15 products did you use? I'd like to know how much to buy ahead of time so I can do this all at once. Kmack, what mil thickness of shrink-wrap did you use? St.stephen, it sounds to me like you've found all the "hidden" nooks and crannies where bad things can happen. Thanks to all of you for your help. Now, if any of you would like to camp out in my garage to help me out with this major task I make a mean spaghetti sauce!!!

I'd like to find out how to permanently prevent rust from reoccuring in my 280z. And if that's possible. I've read here on this site that Por-15 has about the best products for this purpose but I don't recall seeing how long it continues to prevent rust. From all the posts I've read, I'm thinking I should strip out all the interior and pull off the headlight buckets and fenders. Then treat all the interior surfaces inside the car and all the hidden surfaces of the bodywork with the Por-15 treatment. Thanks in advance for all your help! P.S. I live in an arid environment and don't intend to drive the car in snowy conditions. And it's a daily driver.

Hi EZ-E, I'm wondering if the spark plugs match (same make and part number) and if the valve seals are all ok? Are you using oil? I've heard from members on this site that NGK plugs are the best for the L24, L26, and L28 engines.

Kmack, I think your avatar is pretty cool too. Would you mind if I made one for myself to display?

Hey Rick, Is the 10 ton press needed for crushing the beer cans, or for making wine???

Way back when I had a '62 MG Midget that had SU's on it. I meet a guy that raced his MGB on the circuit that took me under his wing and helped me with some repairs on my Midget as well showed me a couple of trick things to do on it. One of the things we did was to disassemble the carbs and clean them in parts cleaner. We replaced the mismatched needles with ones that matched and were intended for street use. The trick thing we did was polish the exterior surfaces of the piston on a cotton buffing wheel using jeweler's rouge and the interior with a cotton cloth and rouge. This enabled the piston to slide up and down much easier and quicker. After reassembling the carbs and mounting them back on the intake manifold, I took the car out for a spin. What a difference! The acceleration was much quicker. One thing we didn't do was put dampening oil in the SU's and it caused the revs to hang up high. So after adding 10 weight oil they were this quick and the deceleration was back to normal. Anyone else done this?