GunnerRob

Mike, Here's a place that has the Konig Toxxin in 17"x6.5 for $160.00 each. I haven't heard of nor dealt with this outfit, but it looks worth a try. http://www.extremeracers.com/parts/wheels_tires/17_wheels/17_konig_toxxin.html By the way. I feel the same way as you about the VERY high cost of wheels.

This is a prime example of why some people should not be allowed to own a Z (or any car that needs periodic attention)! There should be a LAW!

Dwight, You've discovered what I learrned a long time ago. If you want to keep the Z, have your wife drive it once and she'll fall in love with it as well! I've managed to have a Z (two actually) since 1980 while having two kids, and my wife and I are both looking forward to getting our current one cherried out. It also helps to have a second "family" car that's reliable. Congradulations on both counts! Rob P.S. Can we post photos of Z kids?

No, not really. I lived in Orange Co. and Ventura, Ca. when I used them and it does'nt get very windy in those places. As I recall, when I lived in Vallejo and worked in San Francisco, up your way, it got REALLY windy at times! If you're going to secure the cover underneath, make sure you since it up tight and you should be OK. Rob

tttz, I've had two custom car covers that were made of a flannel type material and they had plastic grommets at the bottom near the doors for a cable that you pass under the car and a lock into place to keep it from blowing off and to keep people from taking it. If yours doesn't have this setup, try finding the plastic grommets at a fabric or hardware store. You can probably use bungie cords if your'e not concerned about theft. Good luck, Rob

Very nice job Mike. I wouldn't be too concerned about the time it has taken on this project. Perfection takes time. Especially when you have a regular job and are hosting/developing/moderating a great web site! BTW, I noticed that the battery tray is missing. Are you going to relocate it to some other location? Thanks for the pic's of inspiration. :classic:

Ya, I like the new look. It's done in good taste and I like having the alternating color bars in the 'Active Topics' section. :classic: BTW, what is the 'Shout Box' for? :stupid:

Hey, this device could be used for small yapping dogs too! Rob

Happy days are here again! I went ahead and bought a replacement driveshaft from MSA for my '75 at a cost of $225. It fit perfectly and is well balanced. No more driveline slap (or clunk)! I'm very happy with how well it turned out. I was a little worried about getting the right part because a few years ago I was sent a left side brake caliper when I ordered a right side unit. I installed the driveshaft myself and it went pretty smoothly except for the differential/driveshaft bolts. It turns out that the bolt heads are on the forward side with the nuts and washers on the rear and there is not enough clearance around the bolt head to accept a socket. After panicking a bit, I called a friend/Z shop mechanic who sold me my 5 speed for help. He told me the trick is to put a wrench on the nut (in back) and turn the driveshaft with a large screwdriver to break loose the nut. It worked flawlessly! Thank God for knowledgable people like yourselves. Now for the leaking differential front seal!?!? I hope this info might benefit someone out there in ZLand Thanks for all your help, Rob :classic:

Thank you for reply Alan. I for one am new to this world and would greatly appreciate a helpful hand on 'posting etiquette' so I don't step on peoples toes or waste their time. Good Idea! :cross-eye

I found out today from my Z mechanic that both u-joints on my driveshaft need to be replaced. He said that they are 'crimpted' in, that only the '75's did this, and that it would cost about $325 to replace them. I asked if it would be better to swap the entire driveshaft with a different year model that I could replace just the u-joints in after they wear out. He said that, again, in '75 only, Datsun increased the rear flange bolt size from 8mm to 10mm and there again we're looking at machine shop work to match the '75 flange. I could swap out the differential and driveshaft for any other year, but there goes more money into it. My question now is, can a different year driveshaft flange, say a '77 or '78 with the 8mm bolt holes and a replaceable u-joint be drilled out to 10mm so that it can be bolted to my '75 differential? Any help, advice, and thoughts are very welcome. Thanks, Rob:cry:

I found that vacumm leaks can cause these symptoms. Such as a loose oil fill cap, and/or a break or hole in the large (about 3/4" diameter) rubber hose that's below the intake manifold. (having/getting a manual is a good idea!)

I agree. I'm also getting thrown to the last page of threads when I first view them. It's like walking in on the last of a conversation.

I would like a copy of this game also. I was able to translate the web page, but when I executed the download I was told that it was FORBIDDEN. So if someone could email it to me I'd be forever indepted. Keep the flat side down! claude.robinson@lmco.com

You might want to try rubbing out the water spots using a solution of vinegar and water. Use a wet, soft cloth (like a diaper) and pour the vinegar onto it. Then wipe/rub the spots with this cloth. Do this in the shade when the car surface is cool. You might want to hold your nose as well! Good luck, Gunner Rob

I paid $3,000 for my first 280z ('78) in 1980 and had it 'till 1991. My current 280z ('75) I inherited from my dad in 1990 (He bought it new in '75 with all the goodies that were available in SoCal at the time).