beermanpete

It looks like you are trying to remove a part that is covered by the bushings when the rack is installed. The grease fittings won't likely be there as it would require removing the rack to add grease for routine service. Look at the attached pages from the service manual. The picks show how to add grease. This is from the 1973 manual. Steering Rack Greasing.pdf

The factory manual shows plugs (screws) where the zerks go. You should be able to remove the screws and install zerks to get the grease in there. I don't know if leaving the zerks in long term is ok or not. The factory seems to prefer removing them and re-installing the plugs after greasing.

Good luck.

You really need to measure the fuel pressure and flow rate while the engine is running. The factory service manual has a good description of the method and the only "special" tools you need are a pressure gauge, a 1 quart measuring cup, and a stop watch. Your vacuum gauge should be able to measure the fuel pressure, most will.

I agree with the Horseman, you need to set the idle speed at operating temp. All tuning adjustments are suppose to be set when the engine is at normal operating temperature. We have the same set-up as you (73 car with 72 carbs). The idle speed increases as the car warms up. This is typical of most carburated cars because the fuel/air mixture is too lean when the engine is cold and becomes richer as it warms up.

To see how fast you are going as you hit the tree?

It sounds like the Master-Vac failed. A quick test to see if it is working: With the engine off pump the brakes a few times. This will deplete any vacuum remaining in the Master-Vac. Press and hold the brake pedal down with moderate force. Start the engine (while still holding the brake pedal down). The brake pedal should drop a bit as the engine starts and the manifold vacuum begins assisting. The factory service manual has additional diagnostic procedures. If you do not have a copy you can get it here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

It could be a problem in the igintion switch causing the heat. If the contacts inside the switch are loose, dirty, or worn out the resistance will rise and cause heating in the switch. Check the voltage drop across the switch. If you measure more than a few milllivolts across the switch it is likely the problem.

The Alfa Romeo Owners of Southern California have 2 events coming up soon: Driving school on February 18 and 19 at The Streets of Willow. Time trial and race on March 31and April 1 at Buttonwillow Raceway. All makes and driver skill levels are welcome. Go to http://www.aroschpd.org/ for details.

Phew! I am glad you finally solved the problem. It sure is tough to solve problems when you get so many new parts that all turn out to be bad. I hope you were able to return all the bad parts for a refund.

If a float valve is bad it will leak despite being adjusted correctly. Also, make sure the floats are not sinks. Brass floats will slosh when they take on fuel (shake it near your ear). Plastic floats are harder to diagnose for fuel absorption. See if all 3 floats weigh the same or simply place them in a container of fuel and see if any sink or float lower than the others. Run the engine with the air filters off and look for fuel running out of a venturi and/or float bowl vent. A serious leak will flood the engine and it will run badly. If the float level is just a little bit too high the car will seem to run fine but will idle rich and might idle roughly intermittently as a drop of fuel falls from the main discharge nozzle now and then.

You could cut off a coil, or half a coil, from each spring. This would lower the car evenly and is free unless unexpected costs arise while you are in there. The pitfall to lowering the car by cutting the stock springs is it will bottom out more easily than using the Tokico springs which have a higher spring rate than the stock springs.

Yes, if the fuel level (in the float bowl) is higher than the discharge nozzle the fuel will run out into the venturi. This will only occur while the engine is running however. Once the engine stops and the fuel pump in not pumping the fuel level will equalize at the top of the nozzle and the leak will stop until starting the engine again. Another source of fuel leaking from the venturi is heat soak after shutdown. The exhaust heat can boil the fuel in the fuel line and float bowl, pushing some of it out into the venturi. If the fuel is not actively leaking when the engine is running this could be the cause.

Another thing to check is the throttle opener. If you have vacuum directly to this rather than through the control valve it will hold the throttle open enough to cause a high idle.

The comprssion is not great but is not likely the reason it won't start. Check to make sure you have spark. Maybe the points need to be cleaned and adjusted.

So are you talking about the inner tie-rod end then? All the parts should be tight and not rotate freely, beyond the few degrees of movement allowed by the outer rod-end. It sounds like the lock nut is loose and allowing the toe adjuster to move freely. As for beer and headaches, I don't know of any reason why canned beer would cause a headache when the same brand from a bottle does not. The only difference should be the package. Perhaps the canned version is heat pasteurized and the bottles are not.

I have a Uni-Syn. It definately changes the engine speed when used. It restricts air flow enough to generate a vacuum signal to raise the indicator bead. This restriction enrichens the mixture a bit. The reason the suction piston does not correct for this is because the restriction is before the carb venturi and lowers the pressure in the venturi. This causes more fuel delivery. Even theough the suction piston falls a bit it does not offset the reduced pressure enough to maintain the same mixture ratio. That being said, I don't think it matters. The balance will be set with the same conditions for both carbs so it should be balanced correctly. If I were to try to get it closer I would remove the balance tube and use mercury columns.

It will only matter if the hole is sized to control the rate of air flow. This seems unlikely since the purpose would be to control the movement of the suction piston and the motion is controlled by the oil damper.

If you mean the tapered pin that connects to the steering knuckle, then yes it should not turn. If it is turning soemthing is worn out. You should remove it and inspect the bore in the knuckle and the pin on the tie rod end. Replace any worn out parts.

Make sure to remove the terminal block for the wiring. Also, there is a foam piece between the housing and the electronics. It will require a bit of force to break the bond between the foam and the hard parts.

Nicely done. I like it.

At Parts Express the part number is 330-070. This is a Tyco (formerly Bosch) 30 ampere NO/NC relay. It will work well for the headlights. Use one for each beam (4 in all).

It does look a little bit off but it does not matter as long as you can set the timing correctly. I view the 2 timing adjustment screws as a coarse and fine adjustment. One is easy to access (the on with the degree scale) and one is somewhat more difficult to access. I use the easily accessible one for minor timing adjustments. I only use the other one if I run out of adjustment range on the other.

Get the Bosch relays. Parts Express might not have the best price but the relay is good. When I did car stereo and alarm installs oh so many years ago we use only the Bosch relay and never had problems.

Yes. I have had mine apart. There are 3 (4?) small screws around the perimeter of the black plastic housing that hold the front and rear halves together. These install radially, near the intersection of the plastic and metal parts. Remove these screws and the front will (should) come off leaving the tach in the rear housing. I do not recall needing to use any significant force to separate the two halves.