beermanpete

The factory service manual indicates there are (were?) 2 service kits for the booster. One kit contains the wear items (seals). The other kit contains the diaphragm, reaction disk, and a few other pieces. You need both kits to do a "complete" overhaul. I doubt you can get these at a part store. It is most likely a dealer item only. When opening the booster be careful. There is a rather large spring in there that will push the 2 halves of the canister apart. Other than the spring issue it seems like it should be an easy job.

You say oil pump in the title and fuel pump in the text. The oil pump does not have any rubber parts but should be disassembled for cleaning and inspection. The fuel pump has rubber parts which might be damaged by the carb dip. The fuel pump should also be disassembled for cleaning and inspection.

These are good. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-070&FTR=330-070

Try to release the adjuster and back down the adjustment. The adjuster is a ratchet. You need to move the ratchet pawl away from the toothed wheel so you can move it backward. Look at the side you can get apart and figure out how to get a probe in there to push the pawl out of the way. The pawl is the auto-adjuster arm that moves when you apply the parking brake. Look for a hole in the backing plate near the adjuster wheel. While puching on the pawl with a probe through the hole in the brake drum you should be able to rotate the adjuster with a brake adjusting tool of a small screwdriver through the hole in the backing plate.

Try here: http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ProductCategory.aspx?ParentId=261

7 ohms is rather high so it might be bad. Make sure the connections to the ohmmeter are good and solid to avoid an erroneous reading. The original coil is 1.5 ohms on the primary winding. The secondary is about 10k ohms. The service manual does not specify a different coil for the automatic model so the coils should be the same.

We have ours bypassed. It works fine. The time required for good drivability is longer but here in Los Angeles it is not an issue. In a colder climate it might be a problem.

Or an electric antenna. The speaker goes on the passenger side if memory serves.

The body electrical section of the service manual has the pin-out for each connector. Go to http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html to get a copy of the manual of you do not already have it.

Clean al the parts. The load bearing surfaces of the pads and calipers where the pads slide (the thin edge fo the pads) need to be clean and lubed with a high temp grease (sparingly). Most auto part stores have a special brake grease for this. Also, make sure the back of the pads are clean and that you have the thin sheet metal shims that go in between the pad and piston. Some pad materials will be noisier than others. It you cannot quiet the pads you have try a different brand of pads.

Ok. I will give that a try. Thanks.

No appreciable force should be required. It is a slight taper fit around the bezel so it might be wedged in a bit.

We just tried the Porterfield S-4 pads and shoes last Sunday. The rear shoes seem to have gone away after a few sessions gradually becoming less and less affective. We adjusted the shoes which brought the pedal up a bit but the rears would no longer lock up despite having adjusted the prop. valve all the way to the rear. I spoke with a fellow at the track who was also running a Z with stock brakes. He has similar experiences with the Porterfield shoes and suggested they are not getting hot enough ?!? He said he was using Centric Stop-Tech linings with good results.

Our car behaves similarly. The inside tire leans in enough to raise the outside 1/3 of the tire off the ground. Here is a shot from the track before we did any suspension work. Stock springs, dead shocks, no rear anti-sway bar.

The brake fluid squirting up out of the reservoir is normal. When the master cylinder is at rest there is a "vent" passage that is open between the reservoir and the bore in the master. This allows brake fluid into the master cylinder bore. When you press the brake pedal and the piston moves it forces fluid out the cylinder, through the vent passage back into the reservoir until the seal goes past the vent and closes the master cylinder. At this point the brake pressure in the master and wheel cylinders starts to rise applying the brakes. The reason you are seeing the squirt is because you are missing the filter screens that are normally installed in the reservoirs to keep debris out of the master cylinder. The screens will diffuse the squirt so you don't see it. You don't want to adjust the push rods to hold the pistons down to prevent the squirt. If you do this the brakes will not release. You must have some free play in the push rod between the pedal and booster, and between the booster and the master. Proper adjustment is covered on the service manual.

If you aren't already doing so, press the clutch pedal down while attempting to engage reverse. As Zed said, the gears might not be lined up such to allow engagement. Releasing the clutch will allow the gears to move when you try to engage reverse. Otherwise, move the car (which will turn the gears) as Zed has already said.

Perhaps the wire that connects to the sender has a bare spot on it somewhere that touches the chassis when the wire is conencted to the sender but not when you remove it to make the tests. Check the wire for bare spots. Maybe you could move the wire around whiel the key is in to see if you can make some affect to the gauge's reading.

The Z has no adjustments for the alignment other than toe for the front. The hit to your car must have bent something related to the rear wheel alignment. Perhaps whatever has been bent could be straightened. Ask the mechanic at your alignment shop. I have seen eccentric bushings for the rear lower control arm. This might provide enough range of adjustment to solve your problem at a reasonable cost.

When the wire to the sender is disconnected and the key is on the gauge should sit at 0. If you connect the wire to ground through a small light bulb (test light or meter dial light bulb) the gauge should move up some. The exact reading will depend on the wattage of the bulb. A solid connection to ground will move the gauge past full scale very quickly. If you do this it would best to have a helper who is watching the gauge while you carefully brush the wire to ground to see if the gauge responds. A solid ground for too long might damage the meter. You could verify the sender is working by using an ohmmeter to measure the resistance. When the engine is stopped the resistance should be high, probably about 100 ohms. When the engine is running the resistance should fall as the oil pressure rises. I suspect the resistance will be about 20 ohms or so when the oil pressure is high.

It sounds like a faulty sender to me. Try a different sender.

If you have any doubt about the accuracy of the timing mark on the crank pulley you should locate TDC independently of the timing mark.There are several methods to do this. The quick and dirty method is to use a probe that fits into the spark plug hole (i.e. screwdriver). Holding the probe as vertically as possible, place it into the cylinder through the spark plug hole while turning the crankshaft in the normal direction. This may require a helper. Be careful to stop if any resistance is felt. You don't want to damage anything by trapping the probe between the piston and head. As the piston rises the probe will be pushed up. Allow the probe to rise with the piston. At TDC the probe will stop moving even though the crank is still in motion. After you past TDC the probe will begin to fall. Stop and reverse the rotation to a few degrees before TDC. Now go forward again to the point at which the probe is the highest. Make sure to be turning the crank in the normal direction so there is no slack in the drive side of cam chain. This method will get you within a degree or two. If the timing marks are not closely aligned at this point you have a problem with the crank pulley and/or timing mark on the timing cover. Since you have already installed the cam make sure the lobes for the #1 cylinder are pointing up. If not, you are at valve overlap on the exhaust stroke. Turn the crank 1 full turn and relocate TDC as described above. The cam lobes should now be pointing up. With the crank in this position the other timing marks used for the camshaft installation should all be in their correct places. There are certainly more accurate methods for locating TDC but they require tools you might not have. This is just an attempt to identify, or rule out, a gross error with the timing mark accuracy.

Does the oil pressure ever go higher than 60 PSI? The pressure regulator determines the maximum pressure. If the pressure never goes past 60 you have the correct spring. The FSM states the oil pressure should be 14 to 17 PSI at idle when the oil is 176 degrees. To have 60 PSI at idle with hot oil suggests a high volume pump, a faulty gauge, or restrictions in the oil passages.

The distributor only goes in one way. The distributor drive is from the oil pump. As long as you intall the oil pump correctly the distributor will be fine. When everything is correct the top edge of the distributor drive tang will be at about 11:30 and the distributor rotor will point towards the vacuum advance diaphragm. The 5 degrees BTDC is fine tuning. You adjust it by rotating the distributor slightly while the engine is running using a timing light.

The 1972 FSM specs the free length at 57 mm (2.24 inch). Opening pressure is 54 to 60 PSI. The 1973 free length is 52.5 mm (2.067 inch). Opening pressure is 52 to 61 PSI. 1975 is the same as length as 1973. The oil pressure is not specified however. What is your oil pressure when the engine is cold? If it is close to 60 PSI you have a stock spring.

We have run 225/50-15 tires on 15 x 7 wheels on our car without any rubbing. We have Tokico lower springs and have the original valance. With wheels that have an offset of about -1 inch (toward the center of the car) we need a 1/4 inch spacer in the front to prevent rubbing on the spring seat. With wheels that have a zero offset we do not need the spacer. With a 205/50-15 we do not need the spacer with either wheel.