beermanpete

If the fuel is leaking past the o-ring then the tank or sender unit might be bent or have a small flaw in the sealing surface such as a scratch or pitting due to rust. Inspect the surface carefully for any irregularity. The sender unit has a feed-thru for the wire. Perhaps it is leaking at the feed-thru.

From a handling perspective I would use the same size tires all around. The Z understeers; smaller from tires will make this worse.

Here is the factory service manual page for setting the needle height. Jet Needle Adjustment.pdf It seems to me that if the needle setting is off a bit you could easily compensate for it with the jet adjustment. It will come out the same in the wash. Keep in mind that the jet height adjustment is primarily an idle mixture adjustment. Its affect on the mixture diminishes as the suction pistion is raised. Perhaps you could shim the suction spring to richen the mixture without making the idle too rich.

Most auto parts stores have an assortment of springs. Take the pieces with you and try to match it up. Anything close should work. Make sure it has enough tension to close the throttle quickly without being so stiff your foot will get tired easily. Try to get 2 soft springs that together are about the same as the old one. If possible get one that will fit inside the other. Connect them both where the old one was. This will help prevent a disaster since it is unlikley both would fail at the same time.

If there is access to the ring gear you can hold the ring gear with a flywheel turning tool. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80530/10002/-1?parentProductId=751072&?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&sendroiad=6447433631&sendroikwd=flywheel+tool&gclid=CO6HvNi8zK0CFQR5hwodjDS0gg

There is no gasket between the master cylinder and the Master Vac. With the engine not running the Master Vac will pump air through the vacuum hose and into the intake manifold. If the check valve is in backward or is blocked for some reason the air will have no where to go and will try to escape pass the seals in the Master Vac and exit at the joint where the master cylinder attaches. Remove the vacuum hose from the Master Vac and see what affect it has on the noise.

It sounds like weak spark. Check the plug wires, cap, rotor, etc.

Have you tried the Nissan dealer? I bought bearings and syncros here: http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan_4_speed_transmission_parts_fs4w56a_f4w60_f4w63_f4w70b_f4w71e_and_f4wf60a.html#F4W70B

In the early Z the tach is inductively driven (4-wire tach) so it is not likely a tach failure will have any affect on engine performance. It is more likely that your tach is responding to an ignition problem such as timing bounce/drift or a bad component (points, condenser, etc.)

Your springs are after market for sure. It is likely a typical "lowering spring" designed to lower the car about 1 inch. The rest looks stock so you should be able to use any replacement strut made for the 240Z. The bumps stop seems to be missing so make sure to get new ones and install them when you change the struts. It makes a big difference in the smoothness when the suspension bottoms. We have Tokico Blue struts and lowering springs on our car along with poly bushings. The Tokico Blue struts are only slightly more expensive than run of the mill struts from the auto part store but handle better (IMO). Poly bushings do add some harshness and noise compared to the original rubber parts. The ride in town is OK by my standards. The main thing I don't like is the gear noise from the differential is louder with the poly bushings in the mustache bar. Keep the original rubber bushings for the mustache bar if this will bother you. The poly bushings need to be greased at install and probably should get serviced periodically. Since you plan to drive your car a lot you might want to go with the rubber bushings to ease maintenance issues. Unfortunately, Nissan never sold the bushings separately. Part stores might have replacement bushings however. Check with John at Beta Motorsports for Tokico prices. http://www.betamotorsports.com/index.php

You will find more info about this at HybridZ. Start here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/80-brakes-wheels-suspension-and-chassis/

It is unlikely you will see all 60 amps in the ammeter because some of the alternator's output goes to run the engine and other components in the car. The ammeter shows the current going into or our of the battery. If you are seeing 50 amps of charge for more than a moment at start-up you either have a discharged battery or the regulator is not working correctly and the battery is being overcharged. Check the voltage at the battery. When the car is not running it should be about 12.5. When the engine is running at idle is will be about 13 or so. When you race the engine is should rise to about 14.5 and stay there. Any higher than about 15 volts indicates a problem with the regulator.

This sounds like an electrical problem with the ignition. The ignition is not getting power when the key is in the RUN position. The START position has a bypass for the ballast resistor and is powering the igniton while you crank the engine. When you release the key back to the RUN position the engine dies because ther is no power to the ignition. This could be due to a bad igniton switch, a bad ballast, or a bad connection in the wiring. If the gauges and other accessories are working the ingintion switch is probaly ok. Check the ballast resistor and the ignition wiring in that area first.

The idea is that the fuel tank vents into the crankcase when not being driven. Fuel vapors are stored in the crankcase, perhaps being absorbed by the oil. Upon starting the engine the vapors are pulled into the intake and burned. The tank vent is controlled by the flow guide valve. If you want to eliminate the vapor recovery system the best (safest?) method is to vent the tank at the rear of the car, outside the cabin. You do not want fuel vapors in the car, nor do you want them venting near a source of ignition. If you want to eliminate the guide valve without removing the whole system, connect a hose to the steel line and let it drop down under the car, below the frame. Be sure to secure it adequately so it does not get on the exhaust pipe. Using a small fuel filter in the line will help keep dirt out. On our car we eliminated the entire evap system and have a single vent hose from the tank (we closed the others) connecting to a T-fitting at the filler neck. From the 3rd leg of the T a hose rises up and over the filler neck and then goes down through the floor to the outside, near the electric fuel pump. This has worked well for us so far.

Looking at your photo again I noticed the control valve for the throttle opener is missing. You have it connected directly to manifold vacuum. This will activate the throttle opener all the time rather than only while coasting as is intended. This will cause a fast idle condition. For now, disconnect the vacuum line to the throttle opener and plug the vacuum port on the manifold.

Do you have any throttle return springs installed? I don't see any in your photo. The carbs you have are from an earlier model and the springs are suppose to connect from the throttle shaft to the heat sheild (also not present in your photo), one for each carb. The comments made by Blue and Zs-ondabrain are on point. Check the floats and fuel pressure. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

It is most likely oil burning off. Assembly lube, as you mentioned, is certainly present in a freshly assembled engine. Also, oil could have built up in the exhaust system from the old engine if it had bad rings. If there are no other signs of problems run it more and drive it to give it time to fully warm up and burn off all the residue from the rebuild, old engine issues, and dirt and dust that has settled on and in the exhaust while sitting for a long time.

We have been using this one. It is a cheapy for sure but has worked well on our stock engine. I suspect for higher horsepower it might not flow enough fuel. As far as filters go, a filter before the pump is necessary for rotary type pumps such as the Holley. Diaphram pumps are more tolerant of dirt.

Just a though here, and perhaps a stretch, but I have to wonder if plumbing the fuel tank vent directly into the air cleaner is a good idea. If the engine coughs and catches the air box on fire is could back-up into the fuel tank. The flow guide valve might have check valve or some other device to prevent this from happening. If you do not want to use the original set-up why not vent the tank at the rear of the car with a hose that drops down under the floor, outside the cockpit, near the spare tire and fuel filler area?

We have good results with the Holley Red fuel pump. It is installed in the rear where the original electric pump was. A pressure regulator is mounted on the front fender near the original fuel filter location. We added a fuel filter between the tank and pump and have 2 in the engine compartment, one for each carb.

Dang it, the tree broke!

It does matter which output on the master cylinder is used for the front and rear brakes. The rear (drum) brakes require a residual pressure check valve which is built into the mater cylinder. If you uses this for the front (disk) brakes they will drag due to the residual pressure and cause problems. Also, a somewhat lesser issue is the brake fluid reservoir volume. The front brake reservoir is larger to accommodate the slave cylinder (caliper) piston travel as the brake pads wear. If you use the small reservoir for the front and do not add brake fluid as the pads wear you could run out of brake fluid and get air in the system causing brake failure while driving.

There are lots of mail order companies on the web that have bulbs of all (most?) types. Try here: http://www.1000bulbs.com/category/miniature-indicator-bulbs/

You can put a small fuel filter on the end of the line to keep dirt out.

Service manual says 54.7 to 68.7 ft-lb.