beermanpete

If you retain teh factory electric pump you will not need a regulator. If you change to an aftermarket pump you might need a regulator depending on the pump you choose. Any pump with an output pressure in the 3 to 4 range and sufficient flow rate (volume) should be ok without a regulator. We are running a Holley Red pump (7 PSI output) with a regulator set to 3.5 PSI with good results, a bit noisy for a street car however.

Perhaps a problem with the throwout bearing or pilot bearing?

The parts I changed are the transistors (2 pcs, germanium, same type, NTE102A works IIRC). Notes I found on the 'net suggest C2 failure is a common problem. The Z tach is a copy of a Smith design used in some of the British cars. http://www.classictiger.com/techtips/motach.html

No thread inserts from the factory. Remove the screws you can and prepare to drill the heads of those that won't come out normally. If the thread repair is beyond your skills or confidence take it to a machine shop for repair.

Some in-car track footage from last year at Chuckwalla. No me driving but a lot of fun Z footage. http://youtu.be/wH8Azho4DUI

Try thicker oil in the carb dampers.

The link works ok for me. Thanks for that.

Bubbles indicate air in the system. Bench bleed the master again and then move to the wheel cylinders.

Check for water in the distributor. It will condense on the cap and cause problems.

The line to the manifold comes off from the engine side of the thermostat so it flows all the time.

It will be ok like that. I though you had the line connecting the port on the back of the block to the water pump input. Stanley is correct about the Dorman caps. I tried them and they failed in a few months. Use a NPT pipe plug for the port in the block.

It would be better to cap all the ports. The way you have it connected creates a path for the hot water to bypass the radiator which reduces cooling efficiency.

You should be able to find the bearings cheaper that $45 each. Once the bearing is off and clean you can read the bearing number that is stamped on one side of the outer race. With that number you can buy from a bearing supplier rather than a auto part store. Generally the pricing is better this way. Even at $45 each it is cheap compared to the labor cost of replacing the bearing later. Also, the outer bearing has a built-in seal on the outside. You can't really clean and grease it any better when is off compared to on the axle. If you are going to reuse the bearing there is no reason to remove them. Clean and grease them the best you can while on the axle and run it.

You have mushroomed and/or bent the threaded section of the tie rod end. It is likely that it is now larger than the hole it must pass through to be removed. You should cut, grind, or file some of the threaded section off so you do not damage the tapered bore in the steering arm in an attempt to force it through.

Yes, the valve clearance is measured between the cam and rocker. The number one cylinder is at the front of the car. The rest are in order going toward the back. I prefer to measure the valve clearance one cylinder at a time following the firing order (153624). Set the base timing to the '73 setting with the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged, and the idle at the specified RPM.

Check the wiring inside the distributor. Perhaps when the breaker plate moves from the vacuum advance it is causing a short or open circuit. There should be a small ground wire from the breaker plate to the distributor body. If that is missing or loose it could cause problems. Also, check the wire going from the points to the feed-through on the side of the distributor. Make sure it is not loose, frayed, has insulation worn off, etc.

It sounds like the transmission has a bad pocket bearing. If the pilot bushing was bad the noise would be worst while in gear, not moving, and the clutch disengaged (pedal down).

Try a thicker oil in the carbs. ATF is about 7 weight. Thin oil will allow it to lean out on throttle opening. Try 10W30 engine oil. It works better for me that ATF.

What is the fuse rating that blows?

Plain water will be fine. Most racing sanctions will allow WATER WETTER which will help with cooling efficiency a bit. Check with your racing organization. Red Line Synthetic Oil - WaterWetter® Coolant Additives

You should be fine with a system that is only a few hundred watts total. As Walter said, run the main power wire for the amp directly to the battery (standard practice when I did car stereo years ago). The amps only draw a lot of power when you play the music loud so unless you are cranking it to 11 all time the load on the alternator is small enough that it should not be an issue.

The mechanical regulators are adjustable. You should be able to lower the set voltage a bit.

Another option is to install a Heli-Coil insert. You will likely be able to use the original size screw this way.

3 in 1 seems to go away too quickly. I like using 10W30 engine oil.

The primary purpose of a fuse is to prevent fires (this is more important in homes, but who wants a car fire?) Think about it. If a component starts drawing too much current it is already bad so there is nothing to protect. Without a fuse the high current from a failed component could cause the wiring to overheat and melt, smoke, and eventaly the insulation or other flamable material near the wire will catch fire. The purpose of a fuse is to interupt the current flow before the circuit it is in can get hot enough to start a fire. Fuses have a rating for I2T (Current Squared times Time), which is essentially a heat vs. time rating. This helps the engineers designing the product (cars in our case) select a fuse that will provide the required level of safety while avoiding nuisance tripping from in-rush currents (turn-on surges) and other expected, short term high current conditions. Also, the fuses used in cars will only handle about 80 percent of their current rating indefinitely. At their rated current they will open in about one hour. I have never found any ratings, running current or I2T, for fusilble links so it is difficult to make a fair direct comparison. I suspect the I2T for a fusible link is rather large (compared to regular fuses) since fusible links have a much larger surface area (providing more heat dissipation) and seem to be made of copper rather than a special low melting temperature alloy.