beermanpete

Will the car run on ether (starting fluid?) Also, how old is the fuel? Old fuel does not work very well. Assuming the fuel is fresh it sounds like it is too lean. Check fuel delivery and pressure. Next, check the float adjustment. If that checks out then look for vacuum leaks. Are the carbs the early round-top style?

What year is the car and which carbs are on it?

We reused the factory bolts as well. They do fit tight into the flange. There is no chamfer on the flange and it raised burrs when we installed the bolts. You may want to lightly chamfer the back side of the holes in the flanges. Freezing the bolts as Madkaw suggested will help as well.

I installed an alternator from a Kawasaki Ninja on our Z. There is a thread about at HybridZ: Alternator Swap - S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z - HybridZ This alternator is typically available on Ebay (used) for $150 to $200. If you keep your eyes open you find them for under $100 now and then.

Yes, easily done. We have the STi LSD in our 240 using the Beta Motorsport (now sold by Wolf Creek) output shafts. I think the R180 is (and was) made by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries.

One of the vents needs to be open to the atmosphere (through a filter) to let fresh air into the crankcase. The other goes to the intake manifold vacuum (through the PCV valve) to provide a positive flow of air through the engine. This helps to remove water vapor and other volatile compounds that would otherwise build up in the oil and deposit on the inside of the engine. What you propose would eliminate that system and create a vacuum in the crankcase. If you are getting a lot of oil in the PCV and vent hoses your engine is probably tired. A tight engine does not do that.

I take the plugs out but only to make it easier to turn the motor by hand. I can't see how the cylinder under test would be affected by the other cylinders unless there is a leak from one cylinder to the next (bad head gasket, crack, etc.)

The input shaft bearing, pocket bearing, and lay shaft bearings are all in motion in neutral. You cannot see these from the tail shaft side to inspect them. You need to pull the front housing of to inspect these.

If the engine was pumping oil before the rebuild you could have oil residue in the exhaust system that is burning off. I'm with Olzed, drive it while and let it break-in.

The flange and shaft are one piece. It is held in by the long bolt that threads into the center of the flnage/shaft. The bolt threads into a nut at the center of the differential. I think it is item 7 in the diagram you posted. You should be able to remove the bolt and withdraw the shaft. Some force may be required since the fit with the bearing is close.

There is a filter screen in the fuel inlet to each carburettor. Perhaps those are blocked with dirt.

The bearing is a press fit onto the collar. You need to remove the old bearing and install the new one.

On the carbureted cars the feed line is 5/16" and the retrun line is 1/4". This is becasue the feed line, being on the "suction side", must carry the required fuel with less minimal pressure drop. The line after the pump has a higher pressure "pushing" the fuel and is much shorter so there is less resistance to the fuel flow.

The white wire (?1) with the connector is the main feed to the car. It connects to the positive battery cable at the starter motor through a fusible link. The red wire might have been added as it is not in the factory wiring diagram. Try tracing it through to see where is connects at the other end. Your hypothesis about the fuel pump wiring sounds right. The 73 came with an electric fuel pump from the factory (it was in the back near the fuel tank) so there is a wire for it already that turns on/off with the ignition switch. Look for a medium size (12 gauge?) blue wire near the fuse box with an in-line fuse holder. You are also correct about the fuel lines. The fuel line from the tank to the pump is larger (5/16" ). The return is smaller (3/16"). The line from the pump to the carbs is 1/4". Set the regulator to 3 1/2 PSI. You can get the factory service manual for free at XenonS30. The wiring section will help you sort out the details.

There should be about 1" of free play at the pedal. See the factory service manual, clutch section, page 6.

All of the NISSAN transmissions use the same hydraulics. Not sure about the BW T-5 in the Turbos. The 73 does not have a return spring. The clutch pedal adjustment needs to be correct to ensure proper clutch operation. No free-play between the pedal and master could hold the clutch a bit and cause slipping.

I definitly will not be doing that! Not smart. It would if it hit you.

1. Yes, but it is not a simple as you make it sound. There is a spindle that connects the strut and hub assembly to the lower control arm. You have to remove the spindle and then the strut/hub assembly will come out as a unit. There are many a story about the spindle pins. You should read some of those before starting the job. 2. The Monroe should be fine for "normal" driving.

If you have a radiator shop in your area they should be able to repair it. If you are forced to replace the radiator with one that does not have the trans cooler you can add a separate cooler for the transmission that mounts in front of the engine radiator. These are typically sold as an accessory for passenger cars and light trucks to add transmission cooling to help cool the transmission while towing trailers.

The part you are refering to is called the throttle opener. It is suppose to hold the throttle open slightly during decel. You won't see it do much, if anything, while blipping the throttle from under the hood. The factory service manual has informaton about it in the emission section and the fuel system section. This part is not likely to affect cold starting. Make sure the choke is adjusted correctly and that the jet nozzels move freely when operating the choke. See the fuel section for details.

Good idea. Divide and conquer!

You should measure the fuel pressure and delivery rate. The factory service manual explains how to do this and provides the performance specifications. Will the car run (at idle) on ether (starting fluid)? Did you replace the plugs when you installed the freshly rebuild carbs? How long did you let the car run before turning off the choke? If the preheat water in the manifolds is not flowing (disconnected or plugged up) the car takes a long time (about 10 minutes) to warm up enough to idle correctly and drive without stumbling a bit on acceleration.

Bad master for sure. The boot on the slave looks shiny, indicating a leak there as well. Unless you have an urgent need for the car don't waste time filling or bleeding before replacing the bad parts.

It sounds like you have a problem with hydraulics. Check the fluid level in the clutch master. If it is low you have leak so look for signs of fluid leaking at the slave cylinder and at the master (look in the cabin under the dash forward and above the pedals). The most likely problem is a worn out master cylinder. Replacing the master and slave as a set is common practice but not essential.

The sleeves are likely worn and now are too short. New sleeves will help but you make need to make over-length sleeves to take up the space were material has worn from the uprights. New washers are obviously required as well. All the worn parts indicates the nuts were loose at some point and allowed the collar to move in relation to the shaft and upright.