beermanpete

I don't think it would hurt anything. It just doesn't work. Does the new alternator have output when the car is running? Does it raise the battery voltage? Does the light go out if you unplug the regulator? Assuming everything is connected and working correctly: The F terminal on the alternator should be 12 volts when the key is on but the engine is not running. After you start the engine the voltage at the F teminal should drop a bit. When you race the engine it should fall even more and then rise again when returning to idle. Make sure the battery is fully charged whn testing the alternator. A discharged battery will draw more current and the voltage at the F terminal will stay high. The N terminal should be 0 volts when the key is on and the engine is not running. When the engine is runnig it shoud go to about 7 volts. As long as the N terminal is at 0 the light should be on.

My guess is you installed a "short" pressure plate in place of a "tall" pressure plate. We went through this with the last clutch. The clutch kits seem to mix them up sometimes. To fix it you need to get a tall pressure plate or a longer throw-out bearing collar. Datsun used 2 or more combinations of pressure plate/collar combos over the years. They all add up to the same distance from the flywheel surface to the release arm, about 92 mm.

Awesome! It sounds like a lot of liitle things that added up rather one single problem.

We were able to swap the companion flange from our 73 240Z R180 to a 2006 Subaru STi R180 without any issue. Based soley on this I will yes, you should be able to use a Subaru flange.

Wowsie wowsie woo woo! I remember the Pebbles an Bamm Bamm Show! The alternator could also be the problem. Try connecting the regulator and disconnecting the alternator T-plug.

Try 1/8 NPT. The pitch diameter at the beginning of the internal thread is 0.373 and is the closest to your measurement. 1/4" NPT is 0.491 at the same point.

The factory service manual corroborates jmortensen's statement. The bearing preload is adjusted by selecting spacers and shims, not by crushing a corrugated spacer. Reomving and replacing the companion flange should not change the pinion bearing preload or the pinion height. We changed the companion flange on the STi LSD we have in our Z and there is no apparent gear whine.

What size is the thread? A 1/8 NPT socket head pipe plug is about 0.3" long. The threads in your photo seem too clean to have been run much without a plug installed. Did you clean them already?

As long the bulb is connected in place of the fuse it is in series with the load and will only light if the load present draws enough current. To be clear, no wire goes to ground from the bulb. Both wires go to the fuse clips, one for each. Most of the loads are switched after the ignition by a second switch. For example, the turn signals only turn on with the turn signal switch. If the light bulb is on when all the switched loads are off then look at the what is not switched. The loads not controlled by a second switch are: Charging system Ignition system Meters When the car is not running the regulator sees low system voltage and tries to turn on the alternator by passing current through the field winding. The field will draw about 4 amps which is more than enough to light the light bulb. Disconnect the regulator and see if the bulb goes out. If the points happen to be closed when the engine is not running current will flow through the coil. That is another 3 amps trying to light the bulb. Disconnect the coil positive wire and see if the bulb goes out. The meters should not draw very much current and it is not likely the bulb will light from this load unless the problem is in these circuits. This is a process of elemination. You disconnect on thing at a time to see if the bulb goes out. Leave each one unhooked until you find the culprit by way of the bulb behaving as expceted. To add some resolution to the process, connect a volt meter to the load side of the bulb. A true short will hold the voltage at 0 volts. A normal load will allow the voltage to rise a few volts.

Melts in you mouth, not in your hands?

According to the wiring diagram (72) the red/blue wire branches off from the green and goes to the meters to power the tach and the brake warning light. Where the branch occurs is not indicated.

To narrow it down identify all loads (turn signal, meters, regulator, etc.) and disconnect them one at a time until the problem goes away. To make it easier replace the fuse with light bulb. Use a moderate size bulb like an 1156 or the brake light filament in an 1157. As long as a short is present the bulb will be bright but limit the current to a few amps and prevent the wiring from overheating. Once the short is removed the bulb will go out. The regular load current from a small load like the meters will not light the bulb. A larger load like the turn signals will light it about half brightness and the turn signals will also be dim. They might not flash as well.

Be carefully with this. If you over stress the rubber layer in the damper you might damage it.

You need to be clear about what you mean by front. Do you mean the front brakes or the fluid reservoir that is toward the front of the car? Most cars have the front brakes connected to the reservoir toward the rear of the car. The front brakes generally have a larger reservoir on designs that the reservoir is not common to both the front and rear brakes. I believe that Datsun did connect the front brakes to the forward reservoir in the first year or two of the Z so it is possible that in your case the front brakes are connected to the forward reservoir. What year is your car? To answer you question, you must remove the master to see if it is leaking into the booster unless you can see signs of a fluid leak on the oustide of the booster near the joint with the master. Look for bubbles in the paint on the booster just below the master. Make sure it is not from fluid you may have spilled while working on the car.

Chase, Ok, so those items are off the list. Check the fuel delivery. There could be a flow restriction for other reasons. As has been pointed out, your symptoms could also be due to weak spark. You may not need all new wires, cap, rotor, and so on but you need to make sure they are in good condiiton. Make sure everything is clean and dry. Look for cracks, carbon tracks or other evidence of arcing to ground from the high voltage. As the engine speed and load increase the voltage requirement increases. If the insulation on any of the high voltage parts is marginal it will arc to ground before the voltage is high enough to fire the plugs. Make sure the carbon brush in the cap is long enough and moves freely. An old cap and rotor might look good and not have any high voltage leakage but as they wear from use and get cleaned during service the air gap increases which adds to the voltage requriement. Make sure the primary connections are clean and tight as well. Don't forget the primaray circuit goes through the tach on the early Z so chech the connections there as well. Set the timing to the factory setting for your car. If you do not have a timimg light dead time it. That is the one upshot to still having points is being able to set the timing without running the engine. Also, if you have a dwell meter check the dwell. If the points gap and the dwell do not agree to a reasonable degree it indicates a problem. Trouble shooting is a process of elemination. Start with the most likely suspects and work toward the unlikely along a logical path.

The mechanical advance is not affected by the vacuum servo. The mechanical advance is a fly-weight govenor that lives below the breaker plate. To test it simply rotate the rotor lightly by hand. It should move freely a few degrees and then return on its own when you let go. Your symptoms suggest inadequate fuel flow. A dirty fuel filter could be the problem. There are 3. One in the right fender and a small screen in the inlet of each carb. The inlet screens are easily overlooked and also easily cleaned and reusable. If the filters are good perform a fuel pressure and flow rate test in accordance with the factory service manual instructions.

That is a stamped steel impeller.

JB Weld might work but you will need to remove all traces of gasoline, dirt, oil, etc. from the parts. Use the original JB Weld, not the newer fast curing formula. After applying the adhesive clamp the parts together in the correct alignment and leave it to cure for 24 hours. LocTite won't work. It does not cure in an oxygen environment.

Buy 2 quarts to fill and a 3rd if you want a spare. Ours took 90 percent of the 2nd quart before oil ran out of the fill plug (after a rebuild).

The wire between the coil and distributor connects to the distributor on the back side. See the photo posted above by Captain Zeros. The positive side goes through the ballast resistor (assuming you still have points) and then to your on/off switch. It you have the 4-wire tach you need to have that wired in series with the positive feed to the coil. Bring a wire from the battery or large lug on the starter solenoid to power the ignition and other electrical loads you have. Make sure to use a fusible link or fuse with a suitable rating.

How much fluid over what period of time and milage? The fluid level for the front will drop as the pads wear.

Pass on this and keep looking for a better transmission. That tail housing is likely junk. The rest might be good as a parts donor.

Start at the controls. The switches might be corroded from disuse. Sometimes exercising them will help. If that gets things going, even intermittently, it will give you a place to focus. If you need to proceed to electrical diagnostics, start by measuring for voltage at key places in the circuits of interest. Fuses, switches, device (motors,radio, etc.), and so on. If you get power all the way to the device then check its ground. Measuring for voltage on the ground side of the device. If voltage is present the ground is bad.

The whining noise could be a a bad pilot bearing. Did you replace the pilot bearing? The soft pedal is most likely a bad master cylinder.

The boots should come off and go back on easily. Take 'em off.