beermanpete

To expand on what Blue said, there needs to be free play in two places, between the pedal and booster, and between the booster and the master. When pushing the pedal gently with your hand you should be able to feel two distinct times when free play is taken up as the pedal is depressed. As for the squish, the reaction disc is a compliant joint in push rod (within the booster) that is part of the booster valve that controls the amount of assist. It is a rubber disc about 1/4 inch thick. You might be feeling that compress a bit. Keep in mind that the pedal ratio (~4:1) will exaggerate the motion. Have you checked to make sure the reaction disk is in its proper place? This is a somewhat common problem that trips people up from time to time. Also, once the master starts to move the piston seals have to move past the ports between the cylinder bore and the fluid reservoirs. This will account for some of the pedal travel and could have a progressive feel at the ports gets smaller and restricts the fluid flowing back into the reservoir.

The tools you have are too large (wall tickness). You need a hand-drive 3/8" drive deep socket and a long extension to get the ratchet down under all the stuff in your way. Use a wobble extension if necessary. Avoid flex sockets and universal joints if possible. I prefer Snap-On but Mac, Proto, and Craftsman are good also. The main thing is to get a socket with a thinner wall than the impact socket you are using. The more expensive name brand tools typically are made from stronger materials and have a thinner wall and good strength.

The voltage drop associated with the regulator is likely due to the field current causing VD across one of more bad connections. Check the fusible link connections, the ammeter shunt, the ignition switch, and all the connectors between the starter. Use your voltmeter to measure across each connection, switch, and fuse in the circuit. Each connection should have less than a few millivolts drop.

I get good results with 85W-90 gear oil. You can use a cable luber like this one: Available at most motorcycle shops and perhaps bicycle shops. To get the cable freed up use something thin like WD40. Once you get it moving freely put in white lithium grease. It is a good idea to expose both ends of the cable to catch the oil that drains out the low end.

They look like the plate that goes between the front anti-roll bar bracket and the frame.

Yes and no. I was refereing to the circuit starting at the fuses, before the combo switch. Your reference is to the wires going to each lamp, after the combo switch. Both seem to be correct.

Have you tried Nissan?

The rear turn signals are common with the brake lights starting at the combination switch. Do the brake lights work? The brake lights have a fuse common to the hazards. The turn signals are on the ignition fuse. The turn signal circuit passes through (in this order): the hazard switch the turn signal flasher the turn signal switch (combinaton switch) and a handfull of connectors along the way. A bad ground at the rear could cause the problem but will affect the brake lights, tail lights, and reverse lights as well.

The wiring diagram shows it connecting to the green wire coming from the ignition fuse (20A).

It is not too likely that any of your struts are actually original. The only way to know for sure is to remove them and look. The strut that extends itself is gas charged. That is the normal behavior for a gas charged strut/shock. The originals are not gas charged so the one that self-extends certainly is not original. The other 3 are likely the same but the gas has leaked out. Any sign of an oil leak at the seal means you need new struts.

It certainly is not correct. You better check the other side to see if it has the same issue. That screw is not strong enough for the application.

I had a sender on a Ford go bad and cause the same symptom. Change the sender.

I suspect his differential is toast. I tried to move a car without oil in the differential once. It went about 1 block and got so hot is seized. Fortunately, the diff was going to be replaced anyhow so it did not matter. As for the method of lifting the car, I would prefer to use a service lift as long as I had a suitable jack to lower and raid the differential to avoid dropping it.

Steve is correct, you do need a regulator. However, the banjo fitting should not leak at only 7 psi. You may need to tighten it a bit more or replace the crush washers to get a better seal. Installing the regulator is easy. We use a simple in-line regulator with the same Holley pump and it works fine. This type of pump does not cost much and should be available at most auto part stores.

We went to the AROSC time trial and race at Chuckwalla Valley Raceway last weekend. This was my first time driving at this track. I took first place in class with a time of 2:19 and my father took second with a time of 2:20 driving the same car. We shared the track with Redline Time Attack. I was in the open passing (red) run group which was populated by a lot of faster cars so I got passed a lot. Here is a video from Sunday morning practice.

Be carefull trying to evaluate the brake pedal feel without actuall driving the car. If you get pressure and it does not pump up go drive the car. When you are not driving it is easy to push harder than actually required to stop the car and then think the pedal is spongy.

Since you do not have any rotors you need to chose rotors first. Find out what diameter and thickness the Corvette rotors are. You will need to choose rotors that are close to the same size. Perhaps the Corvette rotors could be used. Get a dead one for free if you can and see how it looks. Can it be re-drilled to fit on the Z hub? What is offset? If the Corvette rotor can't be adapted to fit you can try to find another OE rotor that can be made to fit. Otherwise, get a flat rotor designed to be used with a hat and then design a hat of suitable dimensions. Look to Wilwood or Coleman for flat rotors. Check the caliper to see which way they need to be positioned. The bleeders need to be at the top or reasonably so at least. If the Corvette has the calipers ahead of the axle swap them left to right so you can use them behind the axle with the bleeders on top. Now you need to try to determine the rotational position to clear the strut tube and steering arm, the lateral offset so the caliper is centered over the rotor, and the radial position (distance from axle) so the top edge of the pad is at or just below the top edge of the rotor. Make sure the rotor is at least 1/16" from any point on the caliper body. The rotors will expand as they heat up and get closer to the calipers. Taking the various measurements accurately is not easy. You will likely need to make a bracket with rough measurements from a soft material (wood, plastic, etc.) and test fit it. Then you can make adjustments to get it correct. The final bracket should be steel (1018 or equiv.) with a minimum cross of about 3/8" in width and thickness.

Cool. Glad you got working correctly.

Same here. We have SUs on our L28. It works fine. No changes from when they were on the L24 aside from the normal adjustments that get made at a tune-up.

Based on what you said, your car is running too lean, at least at idle. Since the idle mixture screws are not having any affect the idle circuits are likely blocked with dirt or varnish. You should take the carbs off the car and clean/rebuild them. Be particularly attentive to the idle circuit jets and passages to makesure they are clean and open.

The 74 260Z is carbureted and the 75 280z is fuel injected so the two are not similar enough to comare for your purpose. Get the correct manual. You should be able to get the one you need here: XenonS30.

How much free play is there between the clutch pedal and the master? And also, between the slave and the release arm? Your descripton of the symptom suggests the clutch is not fully releasing so too much free play could be the cause. I notice in your photo the adjustment is fully bottomed which seems odd some how.

Your resistance readings for the coil are typical and suggest it is good. If you know the model of your coil you should be able to get specs from the manufacturer for comparison. Don't use an ohmmeter on circuits that have power, it can throw off the reading or damage the meter. In the case of your coil measurement, don't turn on the ignition while taking the readings. A blue spark is good. A yellow spark is weak. When checking while cranking a yellow spark is not uncommon beacuse the battery/system voltage is lower than when the engine is running. All that you have said so far suggests you are way too rich. If your float height is ok perhaps the floats have become sinks. If the floats are the brass type shake each one to see if there is fuel sloshing inside. If they are plastic it is harder to tell. Try floating all of them at the same time in a bucket of water or gasoline (carefully) to see if they all have the same bouyancy. Or if you have a sensitive scale weight each one and compare their weights.

Yes, you need to separate the transmission from the engine to inspect the release arm and bearing. Was the clutch working ok before the hydraulics failed?

If the pedal is on the floor there is no hydraulic pressure. Even with a poor bleeding you should be able to get some pressure. I suspect your master cylinder is bad.