beermanpete

My 73 240Z has the open brackets. My 74 260Z and 75 280Z both hav ethe closed brackets. From what I can tell they are interchangeable. To the OP: I have a set of the open brackets you can have. Send me a PM if oyu still need them.

If you had to force the slave cylinder on in the manner you describe I suspect your clutch is being held in the released position and will not drive the car. You really should take the engine and/or transmission out and find out why it is behaving the way it is.

The 4-speeds have a steel plate (with the vent on it) bolted to the top of the tail shaft, just ahead of the shifter. The 5-speed does not, the vent goes directly into the aluminum case.

The same as the cooling system. 14 PSI.

Those are aftermarket wheels.

Another possibility is stuck rings. Short trips can cause the rings to get stuck in the ring grooves which leads to oil consumption. If this is the case a long trip might lead to an improvement.

A number of years ago I was putting an engine in my truck (Ford F250) and was almost done. I picked up the air cleaner from the bench and found under the air cleaner the steel plate that is supposed to go between the engine and transmission. Bummer. I had to pull the engine again. Luckily it was an older model ('69) and did not have a lot of stuff like the newer vehicles do.

You could propably use steel angle and make some brackets that bolt to the body in such a way to use the original cross member. The difficulty will be getting the position correct. If you have access to another car you should be able to take some measurements of the position of the tailshaft of other convenient reference point near the back of the transmission.

Yes, the lock pin is difficult to get out. We made a lever with a wedge shaped end to push it out using the case as the fulcrum. Also, if I remember correctly, we made a support plate for the end of the striker rod that bolted to the edge of the tail housing so the rod will not bend. Nothing to fancy. Made them from an aluminum bar about 1" x 1/2" x 24", something like that. Drill, cut and shape to fit with hand tools. No high presicion required.

You have to take the striking lever off first. Then the striking rod and gide slide out the back as a unit.

I have had good results making gaskets for the thermostat and fuel pump from a sheet of gasket material purchased at the auto part store. I have never done this on the differential but I would do it if necessary.

Perhaps the ground is bad. The power (+12V) is constant to the dome light. The ground is made when you open the door. Check the switches in the door jambs.

The Pertronix or an equivalent (if there is one) is likely the easiest and will work with the stock tach. The '79 distributor might be better but is not easier and it will not work with the stock tach.

Mine did the same thing. The problem is the tach itself. Replacing the tach is the simple fix. I was able to fix mine by replacing the 2 transistors on the PC board in the tach. You might be able to have it serviced at a shop. The internals are essentially the same as the Smith meters used in many of the English cars from the 60s.

Will floats from SU fit? They appear to still be available. http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=33997

To me it looks more like an early 70s Dodge than a Pontiac.

I'll second the condensor. Also, check the points gonditon and gap.

Vacuum at idle is an indicator of the fuel/air mixture. As the mixture is moved closer to ideal the engine will run faster. When the idle speed is readjusted to maintain a specific engine speed the vacuum will rise or fall because the throttle is opened either less or more. The idea is that "best vacuum" coincides with a smooth idle and the smallest throttle opening to maintain the specified idle speed. Adjusting the idle mixture to "best vacuum" is an old method from before strict emission control became the norm. Typically the mixture at best vacuum is rich by modern standards.

We used a re-shaped cold chisel to lift the peened section at the flat area on the axle with good results.

Likely 16 millimeters (0.6299 inch).

If you don't know we are a marque racing club that accepts any make or model of car to put on the race track. We have 6 great events for 2013. Come race with us. Tell your freinds. http://www.aroschpd.org/ See you at the track!

I went to The Streets of Willowsprings with the Alfa Club the weekend before T-Day. Here is some of the action form the first practice Staurday morning.

http://yourtireshopsupply.com/category/9_423/truck-specialty-valves

The zero mark will be the top mark or the second mark it there is a -5 mark. The best thing to do is verifiy the zero mark physically and mark it with a bright color such as a white tire crayon. china marker, or paint. Take the #1 spark plug out and turn the engine by hand until the timing marks are near the pointer. Now you can place a thin probe (a long thin screwdriver works sell) through the plug hole into the cylinder. While turning the engine (by hand) hold the probe so it touches the top of the piston and feel it move with the piston. When the engine is at TDC the pisotn will seem to stop moving for a moment while you are turning the engine. Turn the engine back and forth slightly to get as close to TDC as you can. Without moving the engine, mark the edge of the pulley with the crayon or paint. Unless the balancer is bad TDC will correspond to one of the timing marks on the pulley.

Sectioning the struts and installing coil overs is not the same thing. However, they are commonly done at the same time. Technically, the car came from the factory with coil overs. When the car gets "coil overs" installed it is to use 2 1/2" dia. springs and threaded preload adjsuters. This allows ride height adjustment and room to adjust the camber (if camber plates are also installed). Sectioning the struts restores bump travel that would otherwise be used up lowering the car. To check the bump travel look up into the wheel well while the car is on the ground and look to see how much of the damper rod (the bright shiny part) is exposed. You should be able to see if the bumps stops are installed at the same time. If the bumps stops are missing you might get enough improvement just from putting some in. Our car was missing the bump stops and it was pretty harsh when it bottomed out. When we replaced the springs and shocks with the Tokico lowering springs, HP shocks, we put in new bumps stops and it is much smoother.