beermanpete

Good to hear you got it running better.

There are many variables that could cause this symptom. If you push the pistons up by hand (engine off) do they move freely and drop by themselves to the bottom? Do they fall at the same rate? Do both carbs have the spring installed? Are the springs that same (free length, wire size, and coil diameter)?

The fill plug is 17mm IIRC. I have to use a piece of tubing over the wrench to get enough leverage to loosen the plug every time. The darn thing always gets too tight after use. Darn tapered threads anyhow.

Have you performed a complete tune-up? If the valves are not adjusted properly and the carbs synchronized the 2 carbs won't have even air flow which would result in different piston heights. Also, a vacuum leak might cause similar problems as well.

The tachometer has a calibration trimmer. It is accessible through a small hole in the rear housing of the tach. Try adjusting it to match your timing gun.

The fusible links are typically 2 wire gauges smaller than the wire they protect. If you used fusible links that are too large they won't protect the wiring from burning up should an overload occur. If everything else (headlights, heater, etc.) is working ok you could consider installing a relay to power the solenoid.

You probably have the 2 B/W wires reversed. If the wiring to the tach and back is in good condition the G/W wire and the "other" B/W wire should have +12V when the key is in the START position. Those 2 wires should also have continuity with each other and measure very low resistance, < 1 ohm. If not there is another wiring problem to find and fix.

I agree, a rebuild seems unwarranted at the moment. The primary problem seems to be a lack of constant movement of air through the crankcase to remove moisture and other gasses. At this point even a road draft tube would help.

And so will the other one be given enough time.

Ok. Where does the PCV valve pull the air from? Maybe it is getting air from the filter rather than from the crankcase. If the air does not circulate through the engine it will not remove the moisture and you get the goo build up. Try taking the hose off the valve cover and place the filter there. Route the PCV to the side of the block.

It sounds like there is not enough air flow thorugh the crankcase due to the PCV valve having been removed. Consider putting a PCV valve back on.

There is likely 1 or more bad connections in the circuit. Check the connections for dirty, corrossion, and loose or broken parts. My 74 had the same problem. The connectors at the fusible links were the main problem but there are alot of other connections in the circuit.

Isn't that where the pigs live?

Your description indicates proper operation. The oil pressure rises with engine speed to the regulation point and then stays there as the engine speed continues to increase. What is the oil pressure at idle? It should be about 15 psi or so when the oil is warm. The relief valve in the filter is a filter bypass not a pressure regulator. It allows the oil to go around the filter if the pressure drop across the filter is too high. Normally this will only occur if you race the engine at start up (cold, thick oil) or if the filter gets restricted by too much dirt (change oil and filter more often).

Yes, the pulsing can be caused by the gauge's internal regulator. There might be an adjustment you can access through a hole in the back of the gauge. If not, you can take the gauge apart and adjust the regulator. The regulator is a heater wire wrapped around a bi-metal spring. The heater wire is in series with the 2 gauges. The current draw for the gauges heats the spring and opens points that interrupt the power circuit for the gauges. When the spring cools a bit the points close and the cycle starts over. The idea is to regulate the voltage for the gauges to about 8 or 9 volts. There is no service info for the gauges in the manual so you will need to experiment with it to minimize the pulsing. After you get the pulsing reduced you might need to re-calibrate the gauges. There is an adjustment for each.

Good to hear you got it to work. The tach in my 240Z is bouncy as well. It seems to be typical. There is no reason the tach will need to be different due to using the L28. What is important is the ignition system. The 240Z tach is designed for points and does not work well with some of the electronic ignition systems available.

If you are using the 280Z tach you need to connect a wire from the negative side of the coil to the ignition input on the tach. I do not know the wire colors on the 280Z tach, nor do I know how you modified the wiring when you installed it so I cannot say which color wire to connect to what. Since your car is running simply run a new wire from the negative terminal (on the coil) into the car to the tach. If you want to use the existing wires the black/yellow is the likely candidate. Make sure that it does not have power in it under ANY condition (key off, key on, while cranking).

The 4 wire tach (240Z tach) uses a current sensing circuit on the positive side of the coil. With the original points type distributor the +12V (black wire) connected to the ballast resistor. The green/white wire runs from the other side of the ballast resistor to the tach. The black/white wire returns from the tach to the positive side of the coil. To get the tach to work you need to connect the solid black wire to the green/white wire (remove the black wire from the coil) and connect the black.white wire to the coil. It is possible that the E12-80 system will not provide the 4-wire tach with the correct current pulse wave-form to get a reading from the tach. In this case you will need to use the 3-wire (280Z tach). The 280Z tach gets it s signal from the negative side of the coil so you will need to re-configure the wiring appropriately to make it work.

Bolts don't make good plugs because the threads are hard to seal to and create a leak path. If you use bolts use some that have a section near the head without any threads and place the clamps on that area. Generally, long bolts will have an unthreaded section. If you need to cut them shorter.

The shift rods have check balls that are supposed to lock-out the other shift rods and prevent the trans from going into more than one gear at at time. If one of the shift rods moved during transit as was suggested you should not be able to select another gear.

40 ft-lb is correct. If the bolt broke at ft-lb the bolt was bad. The bolts are large enough to handle 40 ft-lb easily.

Which book? The factory manuals for the 280Z do not mention any adjustments. The manual for the '73 240Z provide instructions for adjusting the volume using the little screw. Set the screw so the horn draws 3 amps with 12.5 volts applied to the horn.

The "little Phillips-head screw" is an adjustment. Set it for best tone and/or loudest sound.

The brake lines are 3/16" diameter with inverted flare 10mm x 1.0 threaded fittings. As pointed out above, most parts stores stock straight sections in various length. Use a length that is close to the old line and bend to suit.

My primary concern is how the rubber will react to the adhesive. If it has a bad reaction the rubber could change. The reaction disk is a spring and is part of what determines how the Master-Vac reacts to pedal pressure. If the rubber changes the assist curve will change and change the feel of the brakes. Beyond that it is only the formality of following the factory's instructions.