beermanpete

You should not use glue. Use grease instead to hold the disk in place while you reassemble the booster. The prodecure is described in the service manual.

Parts from a locking fuel cap that broke and fell in?

Bottom half? If you mean the dust cover, then no, it won't cause your problem. I looked in the factory manual for your car and in the auto trans section they specifically say to make sure the engine turns freely after installing the transmission. With this in mind, it seems that your problem could be due to an error with the trans install. Take out the starter and see if you can turn the engine with a wrench. If not, then loosen the bell housing screws and the tail shaft mount and move the trans back a bit. Try to turn the engine again.

Go to Xenon.com and download the FAST and E-FAST programs. These are the Nissan parts libraries for the ealier models, including the assembly drawings. You can look up all the parts using these programs.

I agree with Mike, if you had to use the bolts to pull the engine and trans together something is wrong. Maybe the torque converter got misaligned with the oil pump (in the trans) and is pushing on the flex plate too much. Hopefully you will be able to find the problem quickly and it will be easy to correct.

If the HC is low it is not too lean. When it gets too lean the HC will rise even though the CO continues to drop. Keep in mind the smog test is done at idle and light throttle. It can be a bit lean at idle and rich at large throttle openings and still pass the test.

It seems to me you are making more of this than it deserves. They are just bolts, well...screws actually. Get screws that have the right thread and are long enough to have thread engaement that is at least as long at the screw diameter. Also, make sure they are not so long that they bottom out before the head is tight. Grade 8.8 is sufficient. If you want to use the higher strength screws us grade 10.8.

Do you have an automatic transmission or a manual? The pics you posted seem to indicate an automatic.

The solenoid sounds like it is pulling in sharply, indicating the battery is charged. The new starter could be bad. Try testing it out of the car to make sure it spins when the solenoid pulls in. The engine could be locked up. Make sure the engine turns easily by turning it with a wrench on the crank pulley.

There is likely too much voltage drop in the wiring. Check the voltage at the solenoid when you turn the key (with the wire connected to the soleniod). If it falls below about 11 volts there is a dirty or corroded terminal somewhere. There are a lot of connections between the battery and the soleniod. It is likely there is a little voltage drop in each and the total is enough to cause the problem. If you can't fix it by cleaning the connectors a relay will work, as Black Gold Man said. You don't realy need the Ford realy though. A horn realy will work just fine.

Sorry about that. I meant to say they are not the same capacitance.

Out of round tires can cause vibrations. Check the tires for bubbles, flat spots, and general roundness. Check for a bent wheel as well.

The one in the distributor is across the points and is required for the car to run properly. The one on the coil is connected to the positive side and is used to suppress noise that will interfere with radio reception and such. The car will run fine without it. By the way, they are the same capacitance value so they should not be interchanged.

It need fake port holes on the front fenders as well.

Yes, probably a coolant leak from the head gasket. Our car weeps a little bit there too.

Click on the "GO ADVANCED" button below the last post. After the text entry box loads scroll down and click the "MANAGE ATTACHMENTS" button. A new window will pop up. Click on the "ADD FILES" button. Click on the "SELECT FILES" button. A file window opens. Select the image files from your computer and click on the "OPEN" button. Click the "UPLOAD" button. After the files upload there will be thumbnails displayed in the window. Drag the images you want to post tot he lower section of the window and click the "INSERT INLINE" button. Click the "DONE" button.

The threads for most of the fittings on the engine itself and the thermostat housing are BSP (British Standard Pipe) threads. The BSP thread is a little different than the NPT (National Pipe Thread) common in the US. We used NPT with good results. If you want the use the BSP you can order them from McMaster-Carr or other harware suppliers. I forget the sizes used in the Z but you should be able to get what you need at a good hardware store. Take the fittings you removed with you and match them to the plugs.

A "hot" cam is one that has more lift, duration, and overlap than the stock cam. There are a lot of different cams to choose from and the process of choosing a suitable cam depends on may things. The basic consideratons are: Desired results (what do you want from the car?) Budget Carburettors used Exhaust system (headers? stock manifold?) Head work (porting) The cams tend to be described as Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, etc. Stage 1 being a small power gain, suitable for street use, and comaptible with stock valve springs and related hardware. Stage 2 offers more power gain, might seem unsuitable for street use by some drivers, and probably will need other engine mods to realize maximum benifits. Read the descriptions offered by the cam vendors to begin learning more. Look for Crange Cams, Isky Cams, Web Cams, and Comp Cams to name a few.

Hello. Very nice to meet you.

No conflict. Grant is reading the firing order backwards.

The correct firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.

I am not familiar with that brand. It has the GL-5 rating so it SHOULD be ok. I would be more comfortable with a recognized brand of conventional oil such as Valvoline or Castrol.

You might need to reset the timing of the oil pump drive gear. If it is off a tooth or two it will cause the problem you described.

Hurray! Nothing like a BFH to deal with the tough problems. There are no gaskets on the case to adapter plate. Sealer only. The bearing clearances are to critical to allow for the vagueries of gasket thickness.

If the engine is continuing to run correctly it is the tachometer or its associated wiring. I would start by looking for bad connections in the wiring for the tachometer.