beermanpete

We had to remove the clutch release arm pivot ball from the front plate and install a screw in its place to push off the front plate. Once the front plate is off you can remove the snap ring mentioned above. After you remove all the external parts, as mentioned above, and in the manual, you can separate the main case from the adapter plate. This may require a soft faced mallet and some good, hard blows to brake the sealant bond loose.

Are you using an impact socket? If so, try a regular socket designed for hand use, they have thinner walls. That is what we have to use on ours. If that is still too thick buy a $3.00 socket and grind the wall thinner to fit.

The only issue with the LEDs is the turn signals. Some flasher units are load (current) dependent and won't flash if the load is wrong. You can get flashers for different loads or get the heavy duty type which is not load dependent.

Unless the clips have lost their temper. When they overheat they can lose the spring temper and the pressure to hold the fuse will be too light and the resistance will be high enough to allow a recurrence. In this case replacement clips could be used if you want to keep the OE fuse box badly.

The 1970 Owner's Manual says: Transmission: GL-4 SAE 80 or SAE 90 Differential: GL-5 SAE 80 SAE 90 The modern oils seems to only be commonly available in 80W90 which will be fine.

It might be arcing down to the ground due to dirt on the coil. Remove the high tension wire and clean the top of the coil with alcohol. Clean the wire and dust boot as well. Apply dielectric grease to the inside of the dust boot at both ends where it touches the coil and the wire.

If the idle speed is still to high the base timing will seem too high because it is still advanced some. Did you get the idle speed lowered properly?

Most likely the 4-piston calipers are from a mid-80s Toyota 4X4 truck. These are popular as an upgrade.

Yes, according to the factory service manual you can R&R the struts without removing the control arms. In the rear you will need to remove the spindle pin and separate the outer bushings, so you cannot avoid the bushings entirely.

Assuming you have an automatic choke: The fast idle when cold is normal, to a point. The choke system has a fast-idle cam that increase the idle speed when the choke is on. The stalling right after start-up sounds like the choke pull-off is opening the choke too far. Both are adjustable. Follow the Holley adjustment procedure and it should be fine.

I cut my own gasket from a sheet of gasket material. It works well.

The screw is used to adjust the points gap. It is not a fastener. As I recall the vacuum advance only moves about 1/4" or so. The linear distance is related to the amount of advance but is not specified or normally measured as an inspection or diagnostic procedure. The test is to measure the change in timing in degrees (using a timing light). The factory service manual has a chart showing the amount of advance degrees versus applied vacuum.

Still here. I am not sure how an externally regulated alternator and external regulator would not be compatible if they are the correct part numbers. Did you ever manage to perform the test with the 2 light bulbs or in some other manner verify if your alternator is the internally or externally regulated type?

Correct. You should be able to turn it by hand and there should be no discernible play or wobble in the shaft bearing.

You need: To adjust valves: Feeler gauge set 14mm open-end wrench 17mm open-end wrench To remove valve cover: 10mm socket and ratchet To turn engine: 25mm socket and ratchet or 27mm socket, (varies with year) You can turn also the engine by putting the trans in 4th or 5th gear and pushing the car a bit.

Maybe, but there is only one keeper in there so the retainer is tilted. It needs to be properly diagnosed to be sure.

16 volts is too high. The voltage is most likely lower now because your battery is not fully charged. Charge the battery with the battery charger until it is fully charged, about 13 volts without the charger turned on. Clean and inspect the connectors to make sure they are in good condition. You must have clean, bright surfaces to get a reliable connection. Also, they can loose their spring tension over time, especially if overheated (caused by dirty connections). Make sure they fit tightly into each other. They should be hard to connect and disconnect.

Positive.

18 gauge is fine. The comment about being carefull is based on the possibility of connecting a short across the battery. If it shorted the wires will get hot fast and could burn you. Make sure the wires connecting to the bulb are securely connected to the correct terminals. A socket would be best but it is possible to solder the wires directly to the base, one to the small center contact and one to the metal shell. Holding the wires to the bulb by hand is not a reliable way to do this. It requires to many hands and too much luck. Ofter you get the wires connected securely to the bulbs, connect one wire to the battery positive and one to the car body or engine block. If the bulb is wired correctly it will light brightly. If it does not light but you get are sparks at the wire leads it is shorted.

What bulbs did you use? What wire gauge? The bulbs should light up if there is enough current to get the wire hot. You might have a short across the bulb. If you connect the bulb across the battery it should light. Try that, carefully.

Amen!

No. The tach does not care about the circuit resistance. The ballast is mainly to prevent the coil from overheating when the engine is running at low speed.

I'll second the charging system possibility. Your symptoms could be due to low system voltage.

When I was ordering parts for my 4-speed I spoke with drivetrain.com and they seem to divide the 4-speeds into the early type with the 3 pieces housing and the later type with the 2 piece housing. I have the 2 piece type and told them so. The rebuild kit had all the correct parts except the rear bearing for the counter shaft was different. Fortunately I was able to re-use the old one. Their rebuild kit includes the 4 ball bearings, the pocket bearing, the input seal, output seal and the gasket for the input bearing cover. The syncros are an add-on item. I ordered the o-rings for the speedo drive, shifter shaft and some other small parts directly from Nissan.

Drivetrain.com was able to supply the syncros for the 4-speed for me about 1 year ago. I don't know if the 4-speed and 5-speed use the same syncro or not but you should call them and ask them about what you need. They can likely get other things besides what is listed on their website.