Ben's Z

Bagging and tagging parts and bolts is something I do pretty regularly anyhow. Regarding the head. The swap to a lash adjusted cam is not difficult at all. I would think the machine shop would be able to handle that. Can wipe patters be checked by rotating the cam with the head off of the block or does it have to be done as a complete long block?

Long story short. I hauled my 83 turbo long block to Austin for a friend to rebuild in March. He has family problems so I am headed back to Austin on the 1st to pick it up. I am considering rebuilding the engine myself when I get it back. Naturally I will have the block, rods, pistons, crank, and head taken to a shop to be inspected. I have never rebuilt an engine myself before, but have watched it done in person and many Saturdays on Spike TV's powerblock. My question is this. How hard is it to do with the right tools, patience and time? Its not like I can't afford to have someone do it, but I feel this would be my next "step" in moving my skills forward and my ability to work on my own car. I think building an engine puts you in the top 20% of gearhead populace in ability. More of a "Right of Passage". My thoughts were this. Get it on the stand, and tear down. Mark all corresponding rods caps with their rods. Take the head off and take to machine shop in one piece. Allow them to convert from the present hydraulic set up to lash adjustment. (I have all the parts necessary to complete this). Get the block back with all work done and freeze plugs installed. Paint block. Use FSM and other manuals to build short block. Install completed head from machine shop. My questions come to checking wipe patterns on the cam. I have used 1982 Turbo cam in good shape, so barring any changes to the valvetrain geometry, i.e. decking the head and throwing off the chain tensioner enough to not adjust for timing, factory lash pads should work, correct? This friend backing out on my really threw a wrench in to things. I was hoping to get this engine back and while I was waiting paint my engine bay, and install new AC lines and brake booster, etc, etc. Now I have to pull my old motor and trans, paint the engine bay and possibly rebuild the other engine myself. I wanted this done during the summer months because frankly this is our crappiest time of year to enjoy a classic here in southeast Texas IMHO. I was quoted over the phone $1700 for a stock rebuild the other day after I got the news. While I'd rather not spend that much and learn to do it myself I don't know how much of a hassle I am in for. I hope with 165k on the engine it won't need to be overbored. Thoughts and Suggestions?

So you would advise that when I go to swap in my turbo motor, I pull the old motor with the transmission and bolt up my new motor to my old trans and slide them back in together? I was going to leave my transmission in..

How/what method did you repaint the engine bay? Gun, rattle can, etc.

HMMM. I have a 60 gallon. 3.5 horse. Max7 HP. I wonder if that is enough "umph"?

If you can wait a few weeks I am going to purchase a "barrel blaster" in Austin and bring it back to Houston with me. www.barrelblaster.com I am going to use it on my Turbo valve cover and all the brackets, pulleys, etc. You would be welcome to use it.

Rear caliper brackets for S30 disc brake swap.

Your fellow Z Enthusiast here on the northside of Houston is also 8-9 weeks in to being a father again. Congratulations to you! Not nearly as nervous about it this time. Watching this swap closely as I will be doing the same job here in the next 60 to 90 days. I am going to respray my engine bay while the old engine is out. I would feel obliged to take my shoes off before walking in your garage.

Does the FPR you have support pressures high enough for EFI?

Ditto

I'd like to know the answer to this as I am going to be installing a Bell Engineering Rising Rate FPR with my 280zxt swap. It still requires the OE regulator.

You ordered 2 feet? How did you space the injectors?

Tailshaft on trans. Replaced seal, started leaking again about 5 days later. To hell with it. Very Minor.

How do you go about drilling the main line to feed all 6 injectors?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1978-Datsun-280Z-International-Show-Car-14K-original-miles-Amazing-Custom-Car-/251079542654?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a7581c77e#v4-49 Ugly!

Is that flywheel a ground down steel or aluminum? Contemplating a lightened flywheel for the turbo motor swap.

My 280zxt block is headed to the machine shop next week. I thought about painting it blue, close to the Datsun color or a GM Mopar blue; something close. I have a silver car and plan on reshooting the engine bay while my motor is out. I got to thinking a dark metallic gunmetal grey might look good against my light silver engine bay? Any negatives to using metallics on a block? Oldsmobile had a bad arse bronze metallic they used on blocks in the mid 60's that might look cool too. Thoughts?

Has anyone upgraded their 280z OE condenser to something more efficient? When I do my engine swap along with my engine bay repaint I am going to really work on my AC system. I have a leak somewhere, so everything in the engine bay will get refurbished or replaced. I thought there might be a condenser that is the same size as the OE one, but perhaps is off something newer and more efficient.

This picture was last year shortly after I bought it. (Maybe even the same day?) My little girl is 3, and she thinks riding next to me instead of the backseat of everything else is just great. She asked "What does that say?" on the dash one day. I told her Datsun, and she has not forgot it. Mostly it is "Daddy's cool car" though. She takes interest in thing under the hood. She likes the music turned up loud. She says my "new" polished 280zx wheels are "beautiful".

It was on craiglist for $1000. On there about 10 hours and gone.

Did anyone snag this before I did? It sold fast. Not a 2+2 guy but this thing looked pretty clean. Looks like it was good deal. http://moore91024.com/datsun/datsun.html

If you only knew their dirty little secret. I work for company that sells parts to someone who then in turn sells it to Rock Auto. You probably have the "true" parts distributor right underneath your nose and don't even know it.

I bought some of Frank's parts off his wrecked car. He either had a 3.70 or 3.90, not sure if it was going in his new 240 or not. Might check with him. His car is at Awesome Z's at 59 Eastex FWY and Little York. If you switch to the Toyota 4x4 4 Pot calipers and want to source locally hit me up. You will need a 79 or 80 280zx Master Cylinder. That can be a tough find. I have been getting Andrew (ZCurves) car parts at VERY discounted prices for awhile now, he can attest.

"Circle gets a square" I have listened to all the dbags over at hybrid Z to know this is an accurate statement. I am in your boat. I said to hell with it and bought a 1983 Turbo Parts car. I am swapping in a turbo motor, it is getting rebuilt right now. For about another grand you can get 250 RWHP out of the turbo engine. That is basically double over stock.

How do your plugs look? Car been sitting awhile? Changed your fuel filter? How is your fuel pressure?