Nacks

Hi, Spot on wa5ngp. The gauges run on about 7 volts. I'm 95% sure the regulators are in each of the individual gauges. It's been a while since I last had one apart. Then again, if they're both doing it in unison, that would indicate just the one regulater. Hmm. Pull a gauge out, there'll be a set of contacts in there that might not be making contact properly or is just plain old. Just be really careful if you open the contacts up to clean them, make sure you don't bend the arms of the contacts as this will affect the spring tension and mess up their voltage setting. I've had success with almost-worn-out emery paper eg. 800 grit. It slides easily between the two contacts and cleans them up really well. Try to get the contact faces as smooth as possible to minimise arcing, which in turn will wear them out faster. Assuming they're not beyond salvation anyway of course. I'll have a look at a couple of gauges I've got here and see which one's got the regulater in it. Watch this space. Good luck.

Yep, Arne's absolutely right.

I don't recommend that everyone do this for their old car unless they're already having trouble with the starter circuit and they can prove, through diagnosis, that a relay will cure the problem. It was a simple solution in this particular case that stopped Spieg16 from selling his car. That's a pretty good result I reckon. Sure, the ignition switch might have been the problem but people who've come to me with car trouble, when faced with either: a) replacement of a relatively expensive component that MIGHT fix the problem or paying for the labour to find and replace the cause, or fitting a much cheaper alternative that WILL fix the problem and stop it from happening again, will go for fitting the starter relay every time. They just want their car to work. I fitted a starter relay to my car about 8 years ago and it's still going strong. The relay draws about 0.5 of an amp instead of the normal 20-30amps. I don't expect to have starter problems caused by voltage drop or ignition switch, as my ignition switch has about 2% the load through the Start contacts as it did prior to fitting the relay. I've also fitted a relay to my thermo fans, and two to my headlight circuit and EFI fuel pump circuit. I love them. They beat the hell out of wasting my time locating something that's probably caused by old age anyway. Plus they take the load off expensive components or allow me to fit components that weren't around when my car was made eg. 100/90watt quartz halogen headlights and twin thermos. I've seen so many posts that suggest replacing an expensive component with little or no consideration given to troubleshooting the fault, ESPECIALLY with regard to electrical problems eg. "my battery is going flat" and responses like "replace the alternator/regulator/fusebox/battery/insert-expensive-part-here" with only a basic description of the problem. All I can suggest is to get a second opinion before you spend the money on something that may not fix the problem. Please don't misunderstand this post. I'm absolutely not interested in flaming anyone, trying to win a pissing contest, pointing the finger or trying to provoke an argument, I've just lost count of the number of people who've said to me stuff like "my battery went flat so I replaced it, then it went flat again, what do I do now?" without talking to me first. I simply just like helping people and if I can contribute, I will. As does everyone else I hasten to add. Nacks

Hi, no worries, glad to be able to help. I haven't been around too much lately sorry. I presume, from your last post, that it all went well?

Hi, "i guess my questions is...whats the max voltage i can send to the battery? before its too much. also does anyone know how to test amperage from a voltage tester? all the settings i put it on read OL except for DC volt settings" The alternator's current output is self-limiting eg. a 55A alternator won't put out more than it's maximum 55A. Your regulator SHOULD limit the system voltage to 14.4V DC. Anything higher than that will do cute things like boil a battery dry with acid subsequently leaking on to the paintwork, plus it'll kill the battery stone dead. It'll also blow headlight and brake light globes and possibly hurt your instruments/gauges, electric fuel pump, wiper motor etc. etc. As for your tester, most voltage testers will only pass a couple of amps maximum but your alternator is capable of generating at least 35A, maybe up to 55, so I suggest you limit your concern to the output voltage and try to see why it isn't charging. You'll sort out any current output issues (assuming you don't have a faulty alternator that isn't capable of generating it's maximum current output) by first fixing the voltage regulating issues you've mentioned. It's also very easy to blow an alternator by running the car without a battery connected so I certainly advise against trying that. Sorry I can't give you any specific advice on what to connect to what, your Z probably has a different charging circuit to the ones I've seen here in Australia and me making suggestions might fry your wiring or even blow your regulator or alternator. Your best bet's to take it to someone who knows what they're doing. It's really easy to turn an inexpensive operation into a very expensive one by blowing electrical components. Hope this helps, Nacks

I'd used Metal Kings for about 7 years, in my experience they didn't wear out the rotors and, when they got hot, they just got better and better. First usage from stone cold was pretty ugly though, but after that, they were great.

Is the fusebox heating up? If the fusebox IS overheating, you might have some high-resistance connections in the fusebox itself. If that's the csae, the fuse would be melting due to high temperature, not blowing due to high current draw. The headlights will still work as they're on a separate circuit.

One more thing, do you have anything else hooked in to the tail light/dashlight circuit, like a stereo? That MIGHT be tipping the fuse over the edge and making it blow too.

It doesn't sound like a classic short circuit to me, considering the circuit works fine, with all globes running, for around 15 minutes before the fuse actually blows. What sized fuse do you have in the fusebox? If it's too small for the load that's put through it, it'll blow. The external lights will draw nearly 2 amps of current in total, add around 1 to 2 more for the dash lights and that tells you what sort of current a normal tail light circuit draws. If you're running a 5amp fuse, it'll be running pretty close to it's maximum whenever you've got the tail lights on. If you have a 10 amp fuse installed and it's blowing, there MIGHT be a problem. Your external globes should be 5 watt, you might want to check them to make sure you don't have higher wattage globes (eg. 18 or 21 watt) installed. The higher wattage globes will draw more current, which could be blowing the fuse. In Australia, the stoplights and taillights use a twin-filament globe behind a red lens. One filament's a 5watt and the other's an 18 or 21 watt. The turn signals are a separate, 18 watt globe behind an orange lens. I'm not sure how the rear lights are run in the U.S. but you might want to check the globes and make sure they haven't been installed incorrectly, using the brighter, higher-wattage filament when you flip the taillight switch. If you know someone else with a Z, compare their rear globes to yours and see if there are any differences.

You could always fit a floor-mounted dip-switch, they're unobtrusive and work perfectly. Pretty much any old Ford or Chev one would do. They've all got three terminals on them, one for the feed from the headlight switch and one each for high and low beams. Thought this might help someone in the future.

I use a relay on my starter motor circuit, there was a problem with voltage drop and the relay fixed it right up. I've also got one on my EFI fuel pump circuit. Basically, anything that draws a lot of current could benefit from a relay. Wipers, heater fans and turn signals wouldn't (IMHO) really benefit from a relay unless they're exhibiting problems ie. wiper motor running slow and you've eliminated all other possible sources of the problem.

I just checked the King Springs catalogue, the part no's are different for the 240Z and 260Z. Guess I'll just add them to the pile of Z stuff I've got

Well, I've given all four struts to Toperformance to have the adjustable platforms and progressive springs installed. Just waiting to get them back, should be ready early next week. Bang for buck, I haven't found anything that matches this setup. I've asked them to adjust the dampers to suit the spring rates. I can't wait. Watch this space for pics. By the way, anyone interested in a set of used King springs, 175lb front/180lb rear linear rate units? I'd probably want around $80.00 for them.

I didn't ask them at the time, my guess is that it doesn't have any castor/camber adjustment. I was thinking about asking them if they could offset the hole in the top plates so that I'd have at least SOME camber adjustment, same way early Commodores for example do it. I guess doing that would affect the castor a tiny bit though. Yeah, adjustable camber would be pretty cool. If you're really keen, you might be interested in these? http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=151/CA=93 They're $299.00USD but I'm not sure if that price is for one unit or one pair.

You might have voltage drop.That's when there are so many 'losses' through your 30 year-old wiring system running from the battery, fusebox, ignition switch then the starter that there's not enough left to activate the starter motor and it just clicks sometimes. Other times it may be fine. This can tend to happen more when the car's hot. You'll need the help of a friend, an easy test would be to turn the key to Start and if it just 'clicks', get them to put a screwdriver between the main terminal on the starter motor (where the lead from the battery's + terminal bolts on) and the little spade terminal just next to it, bridging the two. Make sure you kep holding the key on Start while they're doing this. If the starter motor kicks in when they 'bridge' the two terminals, your problem's voltage drop. Because, by using the screwdriver on the starter, they're putting full battery voltage to the spade terminal, bypassing the car's wiring system. If this fixes the problem, all you need is a $5.00 mini-relay, a few lengths of wire and some terminals. And you'll never have to worry about it again. I can help you with wiring up the relay too if you need it. Nacks

I've been doing a lot of looking around with regard to springs/dampers etc. I went and spoke to Toperformance in Melbourne, they're a Koni distributor for those who weren't aware. They did some work for me on my Konis and I was really impressed with their customer service and the quality of their work. I asked them what the 'next step' would be in terms of struts that would suit a road car with a smattering of Club days thrown in. They have a coilover setup that they sell, that includes 250lb progressive springs and adjustable spring platforms that goes for around $450.00 per corner. Now, this doesn't include dampers, it'd be more money on top of that figure for those. I was pretty surprised with the price, I thought they'd be a fair bit more than that. Now I'm agonising over whether or not I'm going to get all four struts done or not, while the car's up on stands doing nothing.

I'm running Kings springs with Koni red dampers. I've been pretty disappointed I must say. The springs seem pretty soft. I emailed King springs asking them what poundage they were, apparently the fronts are 175lb and the rears are 180lbs, in a non-progressive spring. Mine have been on the car for four years and they're more than likely a bit softer than those figures. I have to crank up the sway bars to the point where the car's almost undriveable in the wet coz the suspension's so stiff. I won't let my wife drive the car if it's even THINKING about raining. I'm definitely going for stiffer springs when the time comes, at least 200-225 lbs unless whoever I speak to has a really good argument against springs that stiff. Nacks

Hoping this helps, I have Performance mags on my car, they're 16 x 7. Can't remember what ones they were but you'll be able to find them easily enough on their website. If you're remotely interested, I've got a pic in my 'Gallery'. Click on my name at the left there and click on "View Nacks' Gallery" These wheels were roughly $250AU each about 5 years ago. Nacks. Update: Hmm just checked performancewheels.com.au and couldn't see them. It was worth a shot.

Steve Newing at Speed Technology in Melbourne sells an aluminium flywheel for around $500.00. His web site is www.efihardware.com if you're that keen. Nacks

I scored an internally-regulated 55amp Bosch unit from an R31 Skyline wagon I'd bought for $500.00. It bolted straight in (the car had an EFI L24 in it), all I had to do was muck around a bit installing a warning light. Very simple swap. You shouldn't have to muck around with anything internal. Let me know if you do end up getting another alternator and are having trouble wiring it in. I've done a bit of that sort of stuff.

Hi, I priced some 1" spacers to correct my 260Z after installing King springs, from Steve Newing at Speed Technology in Melbourne. They were around $130.00AUD but there are two types of strut, with a different diameter raised ridge at the bottom of the strut. Unfortunately, mine has the wrong type of struts (late model apparently) for these spacers so I'm still driving around with it lowered 1.5". Must say I haven't noticed the bump steer but then again, I have the adjustable sway bars front and rear (around $200.00 each) that are cranked up a fair bit. That might explain me not noticing. RE: Koni reds, I have some are adjustable, but only for rebound. Non-external adjustment which means fully compressing the shock and turning the shaft one way of the other. Their compression damping is very average and it didn't take long for them to get that way unfortunately. Can't say I'd recommend them but maybe I'd just set them up badly with the springs I've got. FWIW, a matched set of springs/dampers or first-hand advice are worth their weight in gold. Steve at Speed Technology is a good operator, his work is pricey but the end result is well worth it. He built a motor for me and every time I drive it, I know I made a good decision. Hope this helps.

Hi guys, it isn't likely the matching connectors will be available, they sure aren't here in Oz. If you're dead-keen to maintain standard wiring and they look corroded or dirty, you could try giving them a clean with something. A dremel with wire-brush attachment or some emery paper would work for the male connectors and just give the female one's a bit of a crush so the edges overlap slightly rather than butt up against one another. That or just cut them off and replace them with any male/female terminals that are insulated.

Hi guys, I was an Auto Elec. in a former life. There could be another cause for the problem you describe. Most standard instruments tend to run on a lower-than-battery voltage. The problem could be the voltage reg. inside the dash that controls the input voltage to the instrument circuit. 7 volts was the norm. That way, the gauge readings would remain consistent regardless of what the charging system was doing. I could launch into a diatribe of exactly how you can test the fuel gauge wiring but as this is my first Post, I'm not sure exactly how appropriate that information would be. If you're interested, I could probably find out what the resistance SHOULD be through the Sender Unit at full, half-full and empty. That might eliminate the Sender as a possible cause of the problem, plus let you test the gauge. BTW, my Z does exactly the same thing. I'm not sufficiently motivated to replace the regulator so I just go by how many Kms I've done and reset the trip at each refuel.